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1944 Federal 606 C2 6x6 Wrecker

Posted By Jeff Lakaszcyck 3 Years Ago
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Tony Bullard
Posted 3 Years Ago
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Jeff Lakaszcyck (8/17/2016)

The condition of the engine was a big mystery on this truck. I know it ran in 2008, but not since then. I was hopeful it would be ok. The first sign of trouble was when the starter would not turn it over, although that could be caused by many things. Tonight I found two rusted off spark plugs in #3 and #4 cylinders, leaving a 1/4" hole in the top of each cylinder where water could get in. The rest of the spark plugs are pretty nasty as well. There are 2 in each cylinder. So the engine is locked up, with very likely rust damage in two cylinders. So I'm fairly certain the heads will have to come off, barring a miracle. I'm going to get a borescope and see what the cylinder walls look like and then decide what to do. But I'm afraid the heads may have to come off just to get the spark plugs out. I remember Tony Clemons having this same problem with one of his Whites.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/df58114c-f970-49c0-a550-bb28.jpg 


Dad's Jeep engine had the same spark plug wells and water problem and used the fire extinguishers to dry them out. Maybe your extinguishers were used for the same thing.



Tony
Jeff Lakaszcyck
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That's interesting Tony, you may be right. How would that have worked ?

Jeff
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Jeff Lakaszcyck (8/17/2016)

The condition of the engine was a big mystery on this truck. I know it ran in 2008, but not since then. I was hopeful it would be ok. The first sign of trouble was when the starter would not turn it over, although that could be caused by many things. Tonight I found two rusted off spark plugs in #3 and #4 cylinders, leaving a 1/4" hole in the top of each cylinder where water could get in. The rest of the spark plugs are pretty nasty as well. There are 2 in each cylinder. So the engine is locked up, with very likely rust damage in two cylinders. So I'm fairly certain the heads will have to come off, barring a miracle. I'm going to get a borescope and see what the cylinder walls look like and then decide what to do. But I'm afraid the heads may have to come off just to get the spark plugs out. I remember Tony Clemons having this same problem with one of his Whites.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/df58114c-f970-49c0-a550-bb28.jpg 


I hope your engine is in better shape than the White's was. I don't know why the sparkplugs were rusted off because the hood was in good shape. Engine was locked up solid, head was toast and the block was cracked. I sold that truck. Except for some cab corrosion, I made out like a bandit on my '64 4200. Mechanically it's excellent.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/21a342ac-efdf-4ada-a72a-c2c9.jpg
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Eddy Lucast
Posted 3 Years Ago
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Stretch (8/17/2016)
Keep the faith Jeff.
Get some penetrant into the cylinders and let em soak for a while.
Remember, the object is to get it running well enough to move in and out of the barn for now. ;)


don't pout penetrating oil in them, rather pour some rustblast in each of the two cylinders and they'll be free tomorrow

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Eddy.Lucast@remotedata.com
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Jeff Lakaszcyck
Posted 3 Years Ago
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No penetrating oil yet. I have all the sparkplugs soaking in Rust Blast. I want to borescope the two bad cylinders before I put anything in them.

However, I did have a small victory with my data plate. It is located on top of the dash between the center of the windshields and was completely rusted and illegible. Eddy suggested I soak it overnight in Rust Blast. I was pretty skeptical it would work, but Eddy said it would only remove the rust and not the paint underneath. When I checked this morning I could clearly read Federal Motor Truck on the bottom, and some of the other nomenclature. Unfortunately my plate is in poor condition, but after the rust blast soak it is much better than it was. The serial number is 113912 and matches the number on the frame. The Army registration number is W58938 which matches the number on the underside of the hood. And the truck was delivered on 1-26-44. The data plate would also tell me if the truck is a 606D or 606E model, but that part is still illegible ! I think it is a D model but it has several E model features as well.

Here is the data plate as installed:
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d11bc849-61a6-408a-a29d-0da6.jpg

Here it is after the overnight rust blast soak:
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d19c3ce9-b6ca-407a-b687-fb7b.jpg
 
Frame serial number. Looks like a "D" after "606" but I'm not sure.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/bf5959ca-6a5f-483c-9448-cdbd.jpg

Hood Number
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e8ac7f0e-7797-47b8-aa45-3f86.jpg


Jeff
Vintagefarmer
Posted 3 Years Ago
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Damn, what I wouldnt do to get my hands on a piece of history like that! Though, as it seems, with the amount of time and money I can devote to even my small 25M, I think if I did have a C2... I wouldnt get to it till around... 2030 haha.
Tony Bullard
Posted 3 Years Ago
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Jeff Lakaszcyck (8/17/2016)
That's interesting Tony, you may be right. How would that have worked ?


It wasn't used to stop the plug from rusting in the well. After the water was removed from the well it was used to dry out the the plugs, wires, coil and cap from a wet engine so it would start. The carbon tet would either displace or absorb the water and then evaporate quickly leaving everything dry.



Tony
Jeff Lakaszcyck
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Well, the borescope I got from Autozone was inconclusive, I couldn't maneuver it into the cylinders or focus it from a distance to see anything, other than just inside the spark plug hole. But back in 2008 I had emailed the owner in New Jersey about the truck. He said that it ran, but has a miss in it, the radiator had a leak, and it built air but the brakes leaked. So based on all this, and the knowledge I now have that the engine is stuck and got water in at least 2 cylinders, I have decided to remove the radiator and get it fixed, and pull the heads to remove the rusted spark plugs, do the valves and assess any other damage. I want the truck to run smooth, and I don't want the radiator leaking all over the garage floor. Yesterday I drained the coolant and I was surprised to see a stream of beautiful emerald green coolant come out, with no rust at all. Unfortunately there was only about 2 quarts in it, so there is a pretty good leak in that radiator. Today was my day off but I didn't get much done. I did manage to get the hood off, and that will make it easier to deal with the frozen piano hinges in it.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/422c58e3-8b47-4adf-8c6a-4818.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/be135cd3-e718-4401-965c-e256.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/ff6e8f26-8f33-4373-9c9a-0a37.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/1aefe811-2018-4d82-857a-a06b.jpg

Jeff
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Aaron
Posted 3 Years Ago
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Your gonna be sleeping in the shop before too long.

Driving the greenies nuts
http://www.killcarb.com/
Bruce Ohnstad
Posted 3 Years Ago
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That overhead crane came in handy, Jeff. 

Treat the piano hinges gently, frozen hinge will fatigue the flat sheet metal easily.  In addition to your favorite solvent, gentle taps on the circumference of the hinge using a broad punch and wiggle might free up without heat.

I found the Model A Ford hood that was on my dad's gravel screen.  The hood was lying in a dump box under 50 years of debris.  It was in surprisingly good shape, but the hinges were froze.  It was low on my priorities so I tried wiggling it free.  The panels cracked.  I probably could have freed the hinge if I had to.

Bruce


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