Tonight the radiator came out. That thing sure is heavy ! It looks like it may have been leaking around the crank hole. I hope that is not hard to fix. It was getting dark so my pictures are not great.








Jeff

I'm beginning to sound like a parrot, soak the piano hinges in RustBlast. Not only will it disolve the rust so it moves feely it will leave a rust inhibitor on the area to keep flash rust away for at least 30 days!

Double Mountain Manufacturing LLC
Eddy.Lucast@remotedata.com
203-228-1961

Eddy, I'm planning the rust blast treatment on the hinges, I just didn't get there yet. I'm also going to dump some in the bad cylinders, but I want to get a look at them first.

Jeff

Jeff, just a suggestion on the head removal. You don't want to brake a stud off flush with the block. Heat the nut to loosen the rust as you loosen them.


Tony

Jeff Lakaszcyck (8/24/2016)

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Eddy, I'm planning the rust blast treatment on the hinges, I just didn't get there yet. I'm also going to dump some in the bad cylinders, but I want to get a look at them first.


Keep in mind washing something with KBS Klean first to get rid of any petroleum residues' will maximise the efficiency of RustBlast. Which isn't going to be possible for you. When it eats it's way thru it's going to come out the bottom. You won't be able to reuse it if you contaminate it with oil.

If RustBlast eats a hole thru the rust in one spot and drains out before it comes loose all the way around the cylinder, Curl up a shop rag, soak it with RustBlast and place it over the still rusted areas until free. The powdery white Zinc Phospate coating will wipe off with a rag when you're done.

The best part is with patience you don't have to beat on it or try to force it to turn over to break free!

Double Mountain Manufacturing LLC
Eddy.Lucast@remotedata.com
203-228-1961

I got a good bit of work done today, but I didn't get as far as I wanted to. I plugged up the ports on the radiator and filled it with water to check for leaks. I found a pretty good leak in one of the tubes on the bottom drivers side about 6" up from the bottom, and the casting around the crank hole is seeping as well. This casting looks like aluminum but it is steel, and serves as a manifold for 8 tubes to drain into the bottom tank. Hopefully a good radiator shop can fix both. I also removed the thermostat and flushed out the cooling system on the engine. There were no surprises here and it was only half a minute before it was flowing clean. The thermostat is very interesting looking, I have never seen one like it.

Radiator hanging and full of water.


Tube leaking. I marked it with chalk.


You can see the rust marks where it has been seeping around the crank hole manifold.


That's one cool looking thermostat !


Jeff

One surprise that I did not want to see is that the front engine mount is cracked. It looks like it has been that way for quite some time. You would never see it unless the radiator was out.

I spent the rest of the afternoon getting the heads ready to come off. I used Tony's suggestion and heated each heat nut before I tried to turn it. This took a while but it worked well, most of them came off pretty easy. However, there were still a couple of stubborn ones, and one of them caught me by surprise when it broke loose and I fell off the fender ! I gouged my shin on something on the way down, but was ok otherwise. But this slowed my down a little and I only got the nuts off of one head before I had to quit. I didn't have time to get the head off.

This is the front engine mount, you can see where it is broken on the lower left of the picture.
 

Close up of the break.


Heads stripped and ready to start the nut removal. The white residue is Rust Blast that needs to be brushed off.


Jeff

If I don't accomplish anything else on the truck at least I finally got rid of that dad blasted Roadranger shift knob ! I found a knob on ebay that looks pretty close to what I think the original was. I have a photo of the former Robert Pirtle/now Taigh Ramey C2, which is very original, and I think the shift knob in it is original also. Mine looks too shiney though, I may have too dull it up a little LOL !

Here is the old knob. Everyone wants to know if it is the original transmission.


New knob


Original shift knob (I think) on the ex-Robert Pirtle truck


Same view of my new one. It's not a perfect match but close enough for now.


Jeff

Jeff-------Sorry to hear of your close call with that fall.    Hope no after effects tomorrow!   That trunnion front mount should not be tightened that tight to cause it to break. Rear mounts should handle the engine torque and front should be loose enough to allow a slight twist.

That mount has a part #,,,try Hercano ,,,,,maybe,,,,

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PROGRESS WAS ALRIGHT ONCE, BUT IT HAS GONE ON TOO LONG