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How to reinstall differential in 2 ton truck?

Posted By K5_489 8 Months Ago
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K5_489
Posted 8 Months Ago
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Oh yeah...all kinds of things that I would consider to be a horribly stupid idea today are things that I didn't think twice about doing 20 years ago, lol.

I didn't even own a trans jack until a few years ago...bought it right after dropping that SM465 on myself. 20 years ago though...I'd pull a Muncie 4 speed, change the clutch, stab that trans back in and be done inside of an hour without even touching a jack. The mere thought of that today makes me wonder if I have enough good painkillers in the cabinet to make it through the next few days...getting old sucks.
TomC750
Posted 8 Months Ago
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Somehow  this reminds me of putting in a hydramatic in my '50 Olds without a transmission jack or a jack of any kind for that matter. I'm not that big a guy as Brocky will attest. I did bash up my knees pretty good in the process. I was about 20 at the time and have had a lot of years to heal up as well as get smarter.
Forgot to add, putting in the bolts working alone was not easy either.
K5_489
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jimfols (1/6/2020)

Thanks for that report. It's always good to hear when you figure out a problem and it come out well.




I always try to make it a point to report success, or occasionally, failures too, lol. But there's been so many times I've come across threads that have the same odd ball issues today I have with either no resolution or worse, just a simple "fixed it, thanks!" but without the how part...it's frustrating. So, especially when I've solved something, I like t report how in case someone else comes along years later and finds it.
jimfols
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"The flatbed wood is severely rotted anyways, so I cut a section out above the axle, and dropped down 3 of the common Harbor Freight 1" ratchet straps down, with the long end secured to the back of the flatbed. Positioned one strap on either far side of the diff through a mounting hole, and another to a far forward cross member attached to the yoke. The 3rd from above was alternated between the other two from above, and used to support one side or the other as I filled the spool and needed to reposition. "

Thanks for that report. It's always good to hear when you figure out a problem and it come out well.


Jim
K5_489
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Well, it's back in! While I won't say it was pleasant, it did up being surprisingly much less dramatic than I was expecting it to be.

I first tried using the trans jack with a couple sheets of steel laid down to support the jack...which quickly turned into a fail. Dropped a wheel off steel, and while attempting to get it back up on the steel, dropped the diff off the jack.

I wasn't looking forward to dragging it out, lifting it back up on the jack, and trying again only to repeat that, so I tried the crane method, only with ratchet straps.

The flatbed wood is severely rotted anyways, so I cut a section out above the axle, and dropped down 3 of the common Harbor Freight 1" ratchet straps down, with the long end secured to the back of the flatbed. Positioned one strap on either far side of the diff through a mounting hole, and another to a far forward cross member attached to the yoke. The 3rd from above was alternated between the other two from above, and used to support one side or the other as I filled the spool and needed to reposition.

Started pulling the diff up by the two on either side, and used the one on the yoke to keep it pulled away from the axle housing so it wouldn't drag against the wet RTV.

Kept alternating between all four until I got it lined up on the locating studs, removed the straps, and slid it right home!

It's not quite all together yet though as I forgot to order a shift fork boot seal, but I did shift it back and forth by hand several times, and it feels like it's properly engaging in both ranges now, so I'm pretty confident it will work :). Also going to pull the driveshaft down to install new universal joints, center bearing, and clean up the slip section as well.

Thanks for all the help! :)
Bruce Ohnstad
Posted 8 Months Ago
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if the gear teeth look unblemished, (or even slightly rough, depending on how much you plan to drive it) and if the shafts turn smooth, then it might be fine with just a cleaning with Diesel fuel.  What you see is what you got with bearings and gears, they lasted that long and didn't add much grindings.

Bruce
K5_489
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Geoff Weeks (1/3/2020)
Start by making a few "pins" out long bolts that you cut the head off of, and  sliced a slot in the end so you can remove them after the "pig" is in place. The bolts (pins) should be the same thread as the bolts that hold the pig in place.


Ahhh, this is why I've learned to ask before doing.  I usually want to at least try to figure things out on my own before asking, as I don't want to come across as the guy that expects hand holding and spoon feeding through every step, but then I also tend to go WAY overboard on some of my ideas as well once the brain gears start turning.  The pins are the exact same way I tend to install transmissions when they come out/go in separately (If I'm pulling an engine, typically I pull the transmission with it, largely to avoid having to wrestle the thing into place on my back), yet it never once occurred to me to do the same thing with this center section, lol.  

Bruce Ohnstad (1/4/2020)
You got a taste of what it can do when it fell out, so don't get off balance with it or get under it.  I might weigh 150 lbs, you got a feel for how it rolls and balances.  If you get a dozen 2x6 and 2x4 a couple feet long, you can work it up onto a platform.  Work and lever it up to get it started in.  From the top, if you have long crowbar or 4x4 lumber, fulcrum off one frame rail and lift the pumpkin from the pinion yoke.  That can let you lever and line up the studs.

What did you replace on the unit?  Did you take it apart?  The pinion on ring need adjustments for gear contact.


I dropped a SM465 transmission on myself a couple years ago attempting to "bench press" it out of the truck like I would have done 20 years ago....worked a whole lot better back then when the body healed from stupidity much faster...given that the transmission had more to grab on to for control, and I still dropped it, this center section is definitely giving me pause for concern before jumping in to it...

Had to replace the high speed clutch plate in it, as it wasn't shifting in to high range, seemingly due to excessive wear on the teeth in that plate.  Pulled the differential out and apart, but didn't touch the pinion..yet.  I plan on unbolting the pinion assembly from the case in order to fully clean the case and bearings out, but won't be removing the pinion from the cage so as to not disturb that setting.

Yep, very familiar with setting pinion depth, backlash, and bearing preloads in differentials, and thankfully these rear ends have screw type adjusters in them.  Makes this job MUCH easier.  Same basic concept as my Suzuki and Toyota axles, just on a much larger scale.  I match marked the adjusters and bearing caps before disassembly, and will put a dial indicator on it to double check the backlash after assembly.  I have gear marking compound in the garage as well, but I'm not really concerned about that, as I shouldn't be affecting the pinion depth doing this.  I also have the Eaton factory manual on setting up the differential that I read through several times before pulling the first bolt on this one.  
Bruce Ohnstad
Posted 8 Months Ago
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You got a taste of what it can do when it fell out, so don't get off balance with it or get under it.  I might weigh 150 lbs, you got a feel for how it rolls and balances.  If you get a dozen 2x6 and 2x4 a couple feet long, you can work it up onto a platform.  Work and lever it up to get it started in.  From the top, if you have long crowbar or 4x4 lumber, fulcrum off one frame rail and lift the pumpkin from the pinion yoke.  That can let you lever and line up the studs.

What did you replace on the unit?  Did you take it apart?  The pinion on ring need adjustments for gear contact.

Bruce

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I've done few on the Dirt Too.. I use a Sheet of Ply & a Small trolley Jack...

In each & every instance.. Swearing was involved......:P

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wayne graham
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I have done this out in the rocks and on pavement with a 2 wheel feed sack dolly. I used ply wood to roll it on and the height has to be correct. Let the handles slide on the plywood and pull it bach with a come a long. It is crude but it works. Like Geoff said it has to go straight in, no tilting and make the guide pins like he said. Of course a transmission jack solves all this.



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