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Remove parking brake drum on transmission?

Posted By K5_489 Last Month
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K5_489
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Tony Bullard (1/9/2020)
"The 7.3 has a ZF 5 speed mated to it now as well"

What will you do for a parking brake? Does the ZF5 have a drum?



It does not, but it wouldn't be a big deal to fabricate something similar to what's on the truck now.  There are a number of options for transfer case mounted parking brakes, and it wouldn't be a big deal at all for me to fabricate an output yoke/flange with an additional flange on it for the disc or drum similar to what's on my current transmission.  

But that is one of the reasons I'm going back and forth on it.  On one hand, things like the brakes are a lot easier to deal with by keeping the factory installed equipment, but on the other hand, the ZF is a fully synchronized trans that shifts MUCH nicer than the T-30, or even the newer T-34/35/36 versions, and should be considerably easier to find parts for it come rebuild time.  I also don't need to dig up any adapters or clutch covers to mate it to the 7.3 unlike the T-30 trans.  
Tony Bullard
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"The 7.3 has a ZF 5 speed mated to it now as well"

What will you do for a parking brake? Does the ZF5 have a drum?



Tony
Geoff Weeks
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Forgot you have a B and not an R, but still worth reaching out to him, he tackled most of the problems. The 6.9/7.3 is more closely related to the MV series of gas engines than the SV.
K5_489
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Geoff Weeks (1/8/2020)
Jump on over to oldihc.org  and give a shout out to Nikkinutshop. He has done a 6.9 in the Comfovision cab and can tell you all about the difficulties  It can be done, it is not an easy fit.


I figured if a bunch of people got these motors into the later pickups, it shouldn't much of an issue to get one into a bigger B series.  Heck, I've even seen a few 7.3s in the early little Scouts.  Plus the factory got SVs into the later big B series trucks...I don't think getting the motor in there physically will be a big deal, and fabbing up mounts for the motor and trans should be a non issue as well (always figured that's likely one of the big show stoppers for a lot of people - going from the front/mid mount setup to a modern engine side mount and further back trans crossmember) 

I suspect cooling will be one issue here, in that the stock space for a radiator is much smaller than the radiator I run in the F350, and there likely won't be room for a mechanical fan on the motor.  The other issue will be fitting the turbo and related piping in there...maybe getting things to clear the factory steering arrangement, but that would be also be a great time to change to a power steering setup, maybe even going fully hydraulic.  

But overall, I'm not all that concerned about it..I've got quite a few engine/drivetrain swaps under my belt by now, most of which weren't bolt in deals.  
Geoff Weeks
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Jump on over to oldihc.org  and give a shout out to Nikkinutshop. He has done a 6.9 in the Comfovision cab and can tell you all about the difficulties  It can be done, it is not an easy fit.
K5_489
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Output flange did end up having to come off...I eventually found that the brake bits have to be removed, the nuts have to be broken loose (turning them to the point they just barely loosened enough that the bolt starts spinning) and if I rotated the output JUST right, I could snake a stubby wrench back there to hold the head while I removed the nuts.  Took me a few hours to do all this...

...and then found the brake drum firmly rusted to the output flange... *sigh*...even went as far as to revert to my ratchet straps as a winch method, with four of them on the drum trying to pull it back, and smacking it with a mini sledge.  Didn't budge at all, and it took my hydraulic press to get the two to separate.  Turned out that the output flange and drum are an interference fit, and not a slip on like I expected.  

And the brake band definitely needs to be replaced/relined - the top of it is worn down past the rivets, though surprisingly, contacting the rivets doesn't appear to have grooved the drum at all.  I'll be making some calls today to see if I can find some place local to reline what I have, as I'm sure I won't be finding new parts for this any where.  There's a heavy truck service place not too far from work that does brake relining, so that should be OK.  

New 2 speed shift seal should show up today, and I should have driveshafts ready to go tonight as well, so fingers crossed that old coot should be moving under his own power again soon!  

As far as changing the seal...I'm leaving that one alone for now, as most of the trans is caked in decades of grease and grime covered fossilized dirt, so I doubt I'm going to be able to salvage that seal enough to be able to read a part number on it anyways.  Plus, the near future plan for this truck is to get an engine swap, though I haven't yet decided if I'm changing the transmission as well.  Planning on pulling the 7.3 turbo diesel out of my F350, and dropping it in this truck.  The 7.3 has a ZF 5 speed mated to it now as well, though it's a light duty trans.  I figure I'll run the existing T30 for a bit, see how I like it, then decide which way I want to go.  

Either way, this will all be coming out, and either be cleaned, resealed, and reinstalled or swapped for a different trans.  So I'll either address the seal then, or not have to deal with it at all.  Unless it starts puking major fluid soon....
Aaron
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The bolts on the back side might be up against a shoulder and would not turn, but if not remove the yoke and pull the complete assembly off, you might as well change the yoke seal at the same time cause it'll leak at some point, a 1/2" air gun is enough to tighten the yoke nut when going back on.


Driving the greenies nuts
http://www.killcarb.com/
K5_489
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Ha! Manual?!? I could even barely find any references at all to this transmission even existing, much less finding a manual for it. Even the newer T34 version brings up almost entirely results for some kind of battle tank instead of transmissions when I went Googling, lol.

By the time I'm posting somewhere, I've already come to a dead end for a while. I'd rather be wrenching than waiting and hoping someone on a forum somewhere has an answer, lol.

That said, I really do appreciate the help you've been giving so far on this :)
Geoff Weeks
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Check the manual, but I don't think they have to be that tight, tight enough so there is no slop, but you are not setting a crush collar. Worse comes to worse, put the shift cover and lock it in two gears at once to hold the shaft while you turn the nut.
K5_489
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I was afraid to pull that big nut, as it seems like most of these transmissions spec that but to be torqued to something like 400ft lbs, and I just don't think I'll have enough room under the truck to get a long enough bar in there to be able to put that much torque back into the nut....my biggest one only goes to 200lbs, so I'd need to make an extension and double it's length to 36".


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