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Ford CL-9000 Windshield Wiper Motors

Posted By FireStar01 Last Year
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FireStar01
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I figured on the sand. I also figured the part of the forum for mechanical questions probably wasn't the place to post a drawing, unless its a plan for something I want to do with a truck and am looking for advice.

'Celia', '79 Ford CL-9000/Detroit 8v92TA/Eaton 13 Speed

Geoff Weeks
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Yeah, the sand maintains the volume of the tubing while still being "semi-fluid" to allow for bending. Without the sand the tube would collapse in on itself (reducing the volume). You can make tight radius bends, using that method but it is still possible to damage the tubing if not careful. To make a bend without flattening the tube, the outside must stretch and the inside compress, if you take it too far the outside will split.
 To make the broad radius bends for the dipstick tube (can't be too sharp or the dipstick wouldn't pass through) I used the radius on a conduit bender as a guide.
 You can share your drawing here or on the Peter J's forum. We aren't too "anal" about where stuff gets posted here.
FireStar01
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Huh, I'll have to keep that in mind for if I ever need to bend tubing. That is a really neat trick. Kimda curious as to how that actually works, does the sand just keep it from deforming by nature of being there? And yeah, it can be the little parts that make it expensive, and that stainless should last longer. Not that it needs to, as you've said.

And aircraft mechanic school, I take it? Amd do you know where it would be appropriate for one to share old truck related drawings here?

'Celia', '79 Ford CL-9000/Detroit 8v92TA/Eaton 13 Speed

Geoff Weeks
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Yeah, Stainless was overkill, the original made it 30 years, but the cost difference between six feet of plain steel 1/2" tube and stainless wasn't much (the tube itself was around $30) shipping, fittings and such to make the bends are what drove the price up. Those expenses would remain the same regardless of the tube material. 
 I had just assumed the bell-mouth was die-formed out of the tube itself, so I had planned to cut the end off the old tube and splice it on the stainless, I was glad to find I didn't have too.
 A trick I learned in aircraft school to bend tubing without crimping  install flare nuts on the tube, Flare both ends, put a flare plug in one end and fill the tube with DRY fine sand, tap it down several times and keep adding sand until full, and install a flare plug in the other end. Make you bends and then remove the sand and wash out carefully. You can make tight radius bends or bends in hard to bend tube (like stainless). Leave a little extra in your line so you can cut off the flares if not needed on the part you are making.
FireStar01
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I always thought the 9670 ine was odd when I got in it, having been accustomed to how the Trico controls on my CL worked, when they worked.

And a yikes on the cost to buy vs cost to make yourself. Good thing shops exist huh? As for the Russians, watching dash cam footage i see a lot of 90s Inernationals and some Freightliners.

'Celia', '79 Ford CL-9000/Detroit 8v92TA/Eaton 13 Speed

Geoff Weeks
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I don't know of anything on the .net, this is just stuff I have learned from owning 9670's since the 90's. Yesterday, I just made a new dipstick tube out of stainless steel as the old one had rotted out. I learned that the "bell mouth" on the outer end of the tube is braised on and can be removed from the old tube and braised onto the new one.  I found the IHC part number for the plain steel tube was still good, but prices were in the $250- $300 range and I made my stainless one for about 1/2 that.
The cabovers are still being made for other markets, and many of the part numbers are still good, many show up on Russian websites as I guess they were really popular over there. 
 They shouldn't pass air with the wipers off, so if they are, there is a problem
 The Trico wiper control is different than the Sprague and when the Trico was replaced by the Sprague you were supposed to change the control as well, The wiper will work without the change but will not "park" automatically when turned off. The Trico control you pulled to turn on and rotate to adjust the speed, the Sprague you rotate to turn on and you rotated counter-clockwise past the detent to park. Nice feature of the Trico is you could leave the speed set where you like it and just pull the knob to turn on or push to turn off.
FireStar01
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Huh, I didn't know that. There's an exhaust on the left side of mine, in front of the pedals begind the grill and I can hear that damn thing even when the wipers are off... It'll take me a bit but I'll get it eventually.

Wonder if there's a youtube tutorial out there relating to this or not?

'Celia', '79 Ford CL-9000/Detroit 8v92TA/Eaton 13 Speed

Geoff Weeks
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Originally, there is a tube on the exhaust that exits the cab on the right side above the radiator, with those tubes in place (one for the right, one for the left) you don't hear the air with the wipers on. The tubes are just long enough and often if the motor has been removed the tube doesn't get put back on. It is enough to drive you crazy on a rainy day, but an easy fix.
 The late production Sprague motor uses a thermoplastic motor housing, early use die-cast aluminum. Both can wear over time, but often just some O rings bring the motor back from the dead. If the arm whips back a forth real fast when starting, it is likely that most of the air is escaping by the O rings. I uses the pressure trapped in the other side of the motor which exits through a restriction to control the arm's speed.
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Who knows then. Could have something to do with Trico stopping production of the motor, like you said. Then again, I don't know much about the wiper system on the 9670s besides the air runs them and they hiss at me like an angry cat.

On another note, I need to get my motors and arm systems packaged and mailed to Rome so they can take a look at them. Hopefully they can.

'Celia', '79 Ford CL-9000/Detroit 8v92TA/Eaton 13 Speed

Geoff Weeks
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Pantograph arms are real common on motorcoach's Large RV and marine market. The current 9670 wiper arm part number is for a single arm type.


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