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Fuller RTO-12513 to RTO-14613:

Posted By Rob 2 Months Ago
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Rob
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Hi Dan;

It is mounted to the back of the engine and the engine is on a pallet. I've not done anything with either the 1693TA, or 12V-71T, as of yet. I've built an intake manifold to relocate the turbochargers on the Detroit, but need to slip the engine into the chassis before making an exhaust system. Just haven't got around to it yet; but will.

If you still have the parts around I think I would like to convert to the spin on oil filters rather than the current cartridge style. I had to cut the search off as the gent I was with then was really growing impatient at the time. If you still have them I'll run over as would be nice to visit.

Thanks,

Rob




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Junkmandan
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Rob-------What did you ever do with the flywheel and clutch that I sold you 10 years ago for your V-12 ?
Rob
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Thanks again Glenn. I had found and purchased the correct drive gear from a local shop which was new in the package a couple of years ago, but with this batch wanted to keep the same vendor for everything so ordered another. Citing I've not done this conversion in the past I'd like to eliminate any "finger pointing" should something not go right by using the same vendor for everything.

I ordered a new drive gear, both countershafts, reduction, and splitter gears, a bushing supporting the quill, and the kit(s) to include bearings, seals, gaskets complete. Auxiliary section shift fork looks good so didn't address that but since I was so close to the $1000.00 mark to get free freight, I ordered a kit to rebuild the range, and splitter cylinders along with new boots for the lower shifter handle where it exits the tower. I have a little side to side wear in the shifter handle and he "threw in" a pin to tighten this up a bit. If it weren't for the "buzz" through the handle, I wouldn't have had any concern. This is an RTOF series and my low/reverse shift fork shows a bit of wear in the working areas, and being it is the only fork differing from the std. RTO series, it too was ordered. I had new shift blocks already, so the top cover rebuild should go smoothly.

All in all I'm into this just about $1048.00 with freight included. Although not that desirable of transmission these days, it still goes right with my old junk around here. Planning to try it behind the E6-350 in my B-61 in the spring.

On another note; the old R model Mack you helped me time years ago has no problems starting in cold weather. Nine degrees yesterday morning and the truck had been setting almost a week since last engine start without being plugged in. With no starting assistance it fired to life after about 15 seconds of crank time which is consistent. Prior to being timed, the engine would not start under 40 degrees outside if not plugged in.

Thanks,

Rob


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glenn akers
Posted 2 Months Ago
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I see it in the parts section but i have been in many of those and never seen it so i say its something that didnt work out.

Glenn Akers
Geoff Weeks
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Rob an Glenn, I am like you, I have seen it in the manuals but everything I have had open had plain rollers. Back "in the day" I bought a whole "kit" to change my 9 speed to 13, at that time it was around $1500 all in! No more!
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This snip is also from the RTO-14613 manual:



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Rob
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Glenn:

This snip is from the RTO-14613 manual dated July, 2011:



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Rob
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Hi Glenn and thanks for jumping in. I'd never seen taper bearings in an RTO-14613 either, (still haven't) but the parts manual shows them. I did get all the parts ordered today from PAI without any fanfare. Everything needed is readily supported through them and I upgraded the gasket and seal set for just the auxiliary section to the complete transmission set as a precaution. There was a bearing and seal kit for the auxiliary section only which was less expensive than individual parts, so I'll have a couple extra rear seals, but I have several of these transmissions so they will be used sometime.

The site would not allow me to attach snips of the pictorial from each manual, but the tapered bearings countershaft(s) are clearly shown in the RTO-14613 manual as are the straight roller bearings.

Thanks,

Rob


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glenn akers
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Rob a 14613 rear box will work on the 12513 but you have to used the aux drive gear that matches the rear box.I have never seen taper brgs in a 14613 rear box.The !4613 is a better trans.The later 13s did use a taper brg on the rear counter shaft with shims.

Glenn Akers
Rob
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Hi Tony, thanks for asking. I'm doing quite well and enjoying life as it comes with grand daughters and family. Wouldn't trade it for the world I'll tell you. Never have done a "look back" a single time into the former professional life as had met my personal goals and closed that chapter. 2/8/2021 marks three years in and I've not had any contact, nor association with the past while maintaining the current momentum.

I did spend a few moments on the phone talking with a gent at Eaton/Fuller yesterday after originally posting this thread and it is a go. There is an additional shim pack, (since discontinued) which may or may not have been needed to counteract for thrust wear in the original end housing when doing this conversion. I was given guidance on where/how to measure for this wear, but it may not apply to my housing as I had the straight bearings. Other than that it sounded like a very straight forward build and he was very much "in tune" with what I want to accomplish.

Eaton/Fuller no longer services these transmissions and formerly sold the conversion kits, rebuilt assemblies, and new assemblies to convert these to what I'm wanting to do. Nice folks too. Nothing wrong with my main gearbox and I'd put a couple new gears, sliding clutches, and rear updated syncronizer into it when apart. Everything in the front gearbox still looks very nice, but I never touched the auxiliary originally which became a problem later when in service.

I'll order the parts later today and get this task wrapped up posting the findings after testing and evaluation.

Thanks again and hope you are all doing well also,

Rob


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