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Chain of events, (cooling system)

Posted By Skipped_Link 6 Years Ago
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deguitars
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Fourth Gear

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I had these two diagrams which may or may not be of any use to you. One day I will be trying to make all of this work too!

Cheers,
David
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A:C wiring diagram-1.jpg (23 views, 411.00 KB)
A:C wiring diagram-2.jpg (16 views, 321.00 KB)
Skipped_Link
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Fourth Gear

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Dan the truck in question is my 61 Peterbilt 281, the build thread is in the "Members trucks" section & can be seen here,

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Topic2592.aspx

I believe the shutters are made by Cadilac (sp) & are air operated via a shutter stat at the T-stat housing, the truck used to have an air cylinder at the top of the radiator that operated a bell crank & rod down to the shutter slide bar, since the bell crank was missing & the cylinder leaked, I used a cylinder off of a Pack brake (5.9 cummins exhaust brake) & built my own mount to hide everything behind radiator side shroud/cover,



Here is the shutter stat

Junkmandan
Posted 6 Years Ago
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As Glenn said the Weir brand of thermostat was the salvation in a Detroit engine to maintain heat, and keep it regulated. This brand of stat became standard in the mid '70s. Although you never told us the make of truck, the type of shutter control,[straight mechanical from a lower radiator outlet or air operated with control in thermostat housing], the reason OEMs all went to temperature controlled fans was to simplify the cooling system temperature control and make it more failsafe.
glenn akers
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I think that would work.Back when shutter were still here cummins was common to have them blocked open and then the weirdstat was to be installed. I think remenber seeing a upgrade for that from cummins or maybe from the truck side.

Glenn Akers
wayne graham
Posted 6 Years Ago
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I like the idea of just keeping them open. With the AC condenser blocking air flow and the clutch fan I doubt you will have a problem maintaining temp. I do understand about wanting them cause they are there. I too like everything to work. Wayne

I cried because I had no shoes till I met a man who had no class.
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glenn akers (15/01/2013)
I my self wonder why you want the shutters to work. I my self would keep them but leave them open and use a 190 degree T stat.Then turn on the air fan clutch 10 degress above the T stat.Use the werdstat brand for a T stat. It will hold the temp up better at idle.Leave as much of the heat in the coolant as you can as long as its still in a safe range.If its a older engine it should run some cooler than my specs.Newer engines runn better at 200 or above.


This is on an older NTC350,

Good info int the T-stat, thanks I'll look into that brand, & see if the local parts store can get one for this engine.

I had another thought as well, I could leave everything as is, With a 175* shutter stat, once up to operating temp it should never close anyway, just add a solenoid valve to open the shutters if the A/C comes on prior to the shutters being open due to coolant temperature,

You guys are correct, with better thermostats, & clutch fans, shutters are not really needed, but anyone can just leave them open, & the novelty of having them operational is appealing to me.
glenn akers
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I my self wonder why you want the shutters to work. I my self would keep them but leave them open and use a 190 degree T stat.Then turn on the air fan clutch 10 degress above the T stat.Use the werdstat brand for a T stat. It will hold the temp up better at idle.Leave as much of the heat in the coolant as you can as long as its still in a safe range.If its a older engine it should run some cooler than my specs.Newer engines runn better at 200 or above.

Glenn Akers
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Because they are on there, & I have an issue with things not being functional, or real, (I hate laminate flooring too, functional, but not real)

Probably the biggest reason is they are on there & I would like them to work properly, but also to help build & maintain heat, when I drove the truck home the first time it would not hardly reach operating tempertaure, (this was with the shutters open & a direct drive fan),

Now I have the air actuated fan, but at freeway speeds the only way to slow the air flow is shutters,

(edit) The T-state shoudl be maintining the coolant temperature, I'm just not sure how effective it will be on it's own with no real load on the truck.
wayne graham
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Probably a dumb question but why are you using shutters? With AC condenser in front of radiator I think you have found out why they quit using shutters. You can make it work but I have to wonder why. I mean this as a constructive question and not criticism. Wayne

I cried because I had no shoes till I met a man who had no class.
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I think the plans for my cooling system have changed a little bit,

The origonal plan went along these lines,

At 175* the shutter stat would activate & open the shutters,

Next the thermostat would ragulate the water temp around 180-185

If the water temp reached 195* an electric switch would activate an air solenoid, which would apply air to the fan, this would continue until the water temp dropped back down to 185* there the fan would be shut off.

Now I am planning on installing my A/C condenser in front of the radiator & behind the shutters, I do not think it would be a good idea to try & operate the A/C with the shutters closed allowing no air movement over the condenser, So I was thinking about removing the shutter stat & replacing it with another temperature switch & solenoid valve to operate the shutters, By doing this the shutters could be opened anytime the A/C compressor is running, I would have to install a diode to keep from activating the clutch when ever the shutters come open due to water temperature, but that is easy enough to install.

If I do this I was thinking about bumping the "shutter open temp" up to 185*, so now the cooling cycle would look like this,

Water temp rises & engine temp is maintained at 180-185 with the T-stat,

At 185* the shutters would open, (only closing if the temp dips down to 170 for some reason)

If temps continue to rise the fan will come on at 195* & shut off again when cooled down to 185*, as it would in the first plan,

Any reason this should not work?


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