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Chain of events, (cooling system)

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Tony Bullard
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Thanks for the explanation Brad.
It would be great to see a new post in Members Trucks to show your trailer build with the hydraulic power pack and winch mount.


Tony
Brad K
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Thanks for the welcome Tony. 
My Loadking is a hydraulic neck.  The landing gear is on the end of the hydraulic cylinders that fold the neck.  When hooked to the truck, you extend the landing gear, unhook the truck, lower the landing gear, and the neck folds down, reverse the process to fold up.  There's also a proportion control on the cylinders to level the trailer when lifting or lowering.  I'm not sure what weight the neck will lift and still fold up, but I'm planning to carry my Jeep CJ5 on the neck deck.  I tested it with the front end of my 3/4 ton dodge w/ 5.9 cummins on the front deck.  It lifted that just fine.  My wet line on the truck isn't hooked up yet, and I've got the wrong pump anyhow.  It's high volume dump pump, I need a high pressure pump, so I'm using a log splitter to operate the trailer until I mount a proper pony motor.
I'm planning to use the trailer to haul my 1903 9HP Case steam traction engine, 1927 Ford Model T on the rear deck, and Jeep on the front.
I don't want to stray too far from the topic of this thread, but here's a picture of the Loadking patent for the folding neck.  I'm replacing all the wiring and air system on the trailer, so I could start a new thread to detail my progress and show off the trailer.  I'll also be adding the pony motor and a hydraulic 20,000 lb winch.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7e3d8386-cb77-465c-b350-5a44.jpg


http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/228c0354-092a-42c2-bc16-df97.jpg

1970 Autocar A7564T, Cummins SC NTC350, RTO-915
1986 Loadking 352 DFP folding gooseneck trailer
Tony Bullard
Posted 4 Years Ago
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Welcome to JOT, Brad. You understand and have explained your cooling system controls well. I like your strategy of the controls defaulting to a safe state if a component fails. Well thought out.

I love your Acar. How does your folding goose neck operate? My Hyster is cable operated. I've heard some are hydraulic but I can't picture how that would work.


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Brad K
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Glad I found this post.  It's helped me figure out what I need to do with my Autocar.  It has shutters that close when air is applied, but also has a fan clutch that engages when air is applied.  A previous owner had rigged up 2 air solenoids to manually override the shutters and control the fan clutch.  There are 2 switches in the cab that control the solenoids. There are also 2 pressure switches under the hood and 2 indicator lamps on the dash that show when the shutters are closed and fan off. 
My fan has been running constantly, it never shuts off, and I finally tracked it down to the fan solenoid, it's stuck open.  I'm planning to replace that solenoid, and rewire/replumb the whole thing.
My plan is to put in a normally open solenoid for the fan, powered by a normally closed temperature switch.  The switch will keep the valve closed when the engine is cold, and provide air to the clutch when the engine reaches the set temperature, or I can manually turn on the fan by cutting power to the circuit, or if power fails the fan will default to ON.
Shutters will be controlled by the Shutterstat which is normally open, keeping the shutters closed until the engine reaches the shutterstat temperature.  I'll provide the shutterstat with air through a normally closed solenoid that is powered when ignition is on, and can be shut off manually, and will open the shutters if the circuit fails.  (hopefully this is how it is already setup)
I don't know what settings the water thermostat, shutterstat, or current temperature switch have.  I'm planning to ensure it has a 170* thermostat, 180* shutterstat, and 190* fan switch.
Here's a picture of the current setup of solenoids, mounted above the aftercooler.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0a05689f-52cd-4618-9f04-7666.jpg



http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/228c0354-092a-42c2-bc16-df97.jpg

1970 Autocar A7564T, Cummins SC NTC350, RTO-915
1986 Loadking 352 DFP folding gooseneck trailer
Skipped_Link
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Got the switch covered, I started on the plumbing today, I'll update the build thread with the details at the end of my days off.
Geoff Weeks
Posted 6 Years Ago
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If the condensor is going to be mounted behind the shutter, use a trinery switch on the reciever so it will cut off the compressor if something malfuntions rather then blow a hose off.
wayne graham
Posted 6 Years Ago
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One thing for sure it is your's and whatever you do will be fine with us. We just try to offer a little info and suggestions but no criticism. That is what makes us who we are. Good luck which ever way you decide on. Wayne

I cried because I had no shoes till I met a man who had no class.
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Geoff, good info there, I was unaware if what temps certain events take place, that post clears up some questions about that,

As for using the machanical "shutter stat" & solenoid to bypass the system when the A/C is on, that would be easy, the shutters use air to close, with the shutter stat I have now air is supplied to the cylinder, keeping the shutters closed until temps reach 175* at that point air is shut off to the cylinder, (and the air in the cylinder is allowed to exhaust back through the shutter stat) now the cylinder allowes the shutter to open,

I could always just put another solenoid valve between the shutter stat & shutter cylinder, when wired into the A/C it would simply stop air to the cylinder (And exhaust air from the cylinder) alowwing them to open when the A/C is on, When the A/C is off they would work normally, just opening at 175* & not closing again until cooling of below that temp.

Eddy Lucast (16/01/2013)
If you just want the novelty of the shutters working why not have them open when you turn the ignition on and off when you shut down.


That would be very easy, (to easy :cool:) But the novelty of the shutters opening & closing is only part of the equation,

I hope you guys don't take me for being difficult, I'm just weighing my options on what would work best for this truck (which will be seeing pretty light duty in comparison to its former life). This discussion also helps me understand how this system origonally was supposed to operate.

So I have two options I am considering,

Option #1

Leave the shutter stat to open the shutters at 175* & stay open pretty much the entire time the truck is running, then use the newer better T-stat & clutch fan to regulate coolant temperatures, Then simply add a solenoid valve that will open the shutters when the A/C is turned on before 175*,

This will have the novelty of a functioning shutter system, without the cheesyness of just having them work on a switch, this option will also utilize the newer tech with a better T-stat & clutch fan ( newer by comparison of OEM equipment origonally on the truck)

Option #2

Remove the shutter stat all togeather & replace it with a temperature switch & solenoid valve,

This could make the shutters more functional in the system, by using a higher temp switch (say 185*) the shutters would be used more for regulating coolant temps, similar to what Geoff said, more functional & less novelty, However I think the shutters will be opening & closing a lot more often, & then wind up staying open when the A/C is on anyway,

Seems like option #1 would be the easier "makes most sense" way to go. Hmmm, decisions decisions.
Eddy Lucast
Posted 6 Years Ago
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If you just want the novelty of the shutters working why not have them open when you turn the ignition on and off when you shut down.

http://kbs.justoldtrucks.com/
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Geoff Weeks
Posted 6 Years Ago
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the way they were run when shutters we used was:

If the shutterstat was in the top tank or waterrail (like yous is) the shutters opened 10 deg ABOVE the (engine) thermostat, if it was in the bottom tank it opened at the (engine) thermostat setting (return water temp set to engine stat opening temp).

The fan was set (when fan clutch used) for 5-10 deg above shutter opening.

This ment with a 170 deg engine stat, the rad had 180 deg water before the shutters opened and 190 deg before the fan came on. which was about ideal for an older engine.

An electrial bypass was used when the freon compressor is on. With the manual control you have, there is no way to overide the shutter control without useing a double check valve and an air solonoid.

The main reason for shutters was better temp control, but a side benifit was they kept the tubes open in the radiator better by keeping the thermostat (and therfore flow) open.

If it were me, I would replace the mechanical control with a switch and solonoid since you have AC, and wire it so either temp or freon clutch will open the shutter.


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