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Peanuts, the local dump here runs out about 5 or 6 semi trailer loads a day, the last I knew.
Driving the greenies nuts http://www.killcarb.com/
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I work part time for the county garbage and recycling department.. Our 3 busiest sites generate more than a 30 cubic yard box of cardboard each week and the others about 1/2 to 2/3 of a box..
Brocky
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It has always cranked a little slow, esp when cold, but I now have the time to put in. I think the oil cup not being cleaned out so oil will soak into the wick and a armature that wasn't 100% was the problem. I had one original 1941 cable between the Ford type solenoid and the motor. It would get a little warm when I cranked it, so replaced it with a section of 0000 gauge that came off my 9670 when I changed it to air start. I know from experience, that it is one damn cold ride when driven at these temps. Drove it from Chiago to western Iowa when it was near zero. Not something I'd want to do every winter! Heater is ok but too many cab leaks esp around the crank out windshield.
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Thats a mite chilly
Driving the greenies nuts http://www.killcarb.com/
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It was near zero this morning and 4 deg F when I went out to see if my K-7 would start. We are supposed to get a lot of snow, so I wanted to be sure it would fire up. I had just rebuilt the starter and installed an aftermarket armature in it. No block heater, no starting fluid. Gas evaporates quickly out of the carb when it sits, so has to crank long enough to re fill the carb. As cold as it was, it had no trouble cranking and starting with a old 6 volt battery and 15W-40 in the crankcase. If I was going to drive it much in this temp, I would switch to 10W-30. I had to slip the clutch to keep it from stalling when it had to move the oil in the transmission. Good to know, it is supposed to be below zero for the next few days, never breaking the zero mark.
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Good to know I'll check cables as you said.
Driving the greenies nuts http://www.killcarb.com/
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40 is a diminutive version of the MT50, same but smaller the MT42 is a newer design. In terms of interchange as long as the direction and starter drive are the same, they will, replace one another, but parts will not interchange. How the nose cone attaches and the brushes are accessed are all different. Quick and dirty way to check, is try and crank for 30 sec or so then run around and feel every cable and connection. A hot cable or connection is bad. Be sure to check the motor side of the solenoid, On the MT 42 it is a little bent strap that bolts into the side of the motor. The MT 40 the strap goes straight into the motor IIRC. Don't forget to check the ground side cables as well. There are internal problems that can cause high amp draw and low output, just one brush not making good contact will do it. 200 amp load on a 900 or 1000 CCA battery isn't really enough, you generally want 1/2 CCA load for testing and shouldn't drop much below 10 volts. 450 or 500 amp. I hope to find a home for the old 6 volt gear reduction unit as they weren't that common. They were used to crank larger engines off of six volt system
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Not me but have a question about the 40 and 42MT delcos, what is the difference between the two, I'm gonna pull one off the 335 it decided to turn over real slow yesterday and is sucking a lot of juice to do it, I've got 3 12 31 series batterys on it and they won't even begin to pull down with a 200 amp load tester, I'm guessing I've got a starter glitch as it has in there for about 25 years, cables are all good. This happened last year and then like magic cleared up and then started again yesterday, no clicking or grinding just slow turning.
Driving the greenies nuts http://www.killcarb.com/
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I have a early 6 volt gear reduction starter core. I think this one is for a IHC FBC. It is a core, needs the armature undercut, or replaced, some brush springs etc. Free to anyone who wants to pick it up 50 miles east of Omaha. Someone must need a core for something. The tag is unreadable. Shipping would be more than it is worth. Last time I priced out shipping a starter it was close to $100.
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