"If you build it they will come" - that has been my motto for the last 3 years. It seems to be working.

My original plan was to put the WB cab and sheetmetal on the WC chassis, but now that I have had a good look at the WB I have really fallen in love with it the way it is. So the WB will get the WC engine and overdrive transmission. Both were optional equipment in the WB.

I got home from Daytona in time to play a little. I pressurized the air system with my shop compressor and got it up to 90 or 100 psi. I didn't notice any gross leaks but it bled down to 60 in about 5 minutes. Even with the leaks I think the compressor on the truck should be able to keep the air up, it will only pressurize to about 20 or so. Anything else I should look at besides the governor ? I understand pneumatics but I'm a novice at air brake systems.

On the plus side, it looks like the generator is charging. That's sort of surprising since most of the electrical doesn't work.

That big six really does sound good. It reminds me of an old gas engine fire truck.


Jeff

The governors don't usually stick in the unload position. As Kevin says a little cleanup is easy. Attached is a typical breakdown.

Actually the governor valve is a control vale for the unloading valves in the compressor and the unloading valves can stick in the unload position. I have a parts breakdown of it if you want it.

Tony

Tony, I don't see anything like that governor on my compressor. There is also a round governor in my WB28T maintenance manual that I don't have either. Here are a couple of pictures of my compressor. There is a valve on top that appears to be frozen, at least I cannot move it with moderate pressure, and I'm thinking that is part of the problem. Does anyone recognize this compressor ? The one on the WB is similar but not identical. I'm open to any suggestions anyone has.

Tony, that SR501 is some sort of electrical gizmo, did you mean to post something different ?





Jeff

Jeff that is an early Bendix, its known as the 7 1/4, they are slow pumpers, that is the unloader on top if I remember, I don't think I have a book on it, get it oiled up and get that cross to moving and I believe it'll work.

Driving the greenies nuts
http://www.killcarb.com/

TonyClemens (01/12/2013)

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I still have the 5 gallon boat gas tank that was installed on my '56 WC22PLt. I had the driver's side saddle tank boiled out. The shop had to cut a few access holes in the tank to get out all the old crud in it. That old sour varnished gas sure does stink.

The alcohol they're adding to gas is causing gas tanks to rust. You can seal the inside of the tank to solve the problem permanently but it's a little pricey. $130.00 per 100 gallon tank for the chemicals to clean it out and seal it.

Double Mountain Manufacturing LLC
EddyLucast@hotmail.com 
203-228-1961

Eddy, this product is what I used to seal the tank. http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ARK-01

Jeff Lakaszcyck (03/12/2013)

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Tony, I don't see anything like that governor on my compressor. There is also a round governor in my WB28T maintenance manual that I don't have either. Here are a couple of pictures of my compressor. There is a valve on top that appears to be frozen, at least I cannot move it with moderate pressure, and I'm thinking that is part of the problem. Does anyone recognize this compressor ? The one on the WB is similar but not identical. I'm open to any suggestions anyone has.

Tony, that SR501 is some sort of electrical gizmo, did you mean to post something different ?





Oops on that attachment.

Attached is all I have for a similar BW compressor. Aaron is right, that is the unloading mechanism on top and when the cross head is in the down position it is unloading. It looks like it is in the up position. There is a little piston controlled by the governor valve under its tail
that forces the unloading valves open. The small copper line I believe is the pilot line. I believe there is a reed valve behind the air inlet that might not be seating. That would cause an unload condition. I think the two large hex caps on top are the discharge valve retainers.



Tony

Do you have this style governor? The roundish part in top right of picture. This is on my '48 International KB8.



In any case you should be able to trace the line back from your unloader to find yours. When you aired up the truck, where did you supply air? It is possible there is a one-way valve in the system that would prevent the entire system being pressurized and would hide a leak. If you pull the outlet line off at the compressor or the tank you will be able to feel if it is pumping air at all. You said "Even with the leaks I think the compressor on the truck should be able to keep the air up, it will only pressurize to about 20 or so.".....is the pressure dropping to 20 and then holding? If so I would say it is pumping air, you just have too many leaks, and the compressor can't build air fast enough to replace, or the compressor is worn or has stuck rings so it just can't build higher pressure. The old compressors really don't push much air, if you have a bunch of small leaks that may be your main problem.

Tad

46 Chevy OS 1.5 ton, 48 & 49 IH KBS-8-1, 51 IH L195 Wrecker, 60 IH RF195, 64 F250 16ft flatbed, 65 Datsun 320, 72 IH Travelall

Tad that's the same type governor on a 47 Autocar C100 I worked on. It controlled a compressor similar to Jeff's.



This governor needed adjusting but the unloader worked OK.

Tony

TonyClemens (03/12/2013)

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Eddy, this product is what I used to seal the tank. http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ARK-01

Same concept http://justoldtrucks.gostorego.com/gold-standard-tank-sealer.html a cleaner to get rid of the petroleum residues, an acid to etch the inside of the tank, mine also disolves any rust, a sealer to protect the tank interior.

I talk to a lot of people usnig various tank sealers and what they tell me is the cream colored sealers are failing with the alcohol/ethanol gas combinations. Keep an eye on them. If you have a clear glass globe on your fuel pump, when you start seeing your gas change color its your tank sealer disolving. You need a sealer that is impervious to alcohol, not just resistant, KBS Gold Standard Tank Sealer is impervious to alcohol and ethanol and that's why it is the number 1 selling tank sealer. If you have a failing tank sealer, it has to be removed, before you can reseal it and I can help with that too. I have an aircraft strength paint stripper that will take them out.

Tony,

I'm also wondering if we shouldn't be sealing the inside of the air tanks on our old trucks. I doubt any of them had any kind of protective coating on the inside and most all of them have seen their fair share of moisture. How many times have we heard about someone looking for replacements from pin holes?

Double Mountain Manufacturing LLC
EddyLucast@hotmail.com 
203-228-1961