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1959 Autocar

Posted By PickerRun 7 Years Ago
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Brad K
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Looking forward to seeing your progress!  I was hoping to get my truck out to a show this weekend, but I still have the dash torn apart and sitting on my living room floor, and kitchen floor, and kitchen table, and counter, and garage floor...

http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/228c0354-092a-42c2-bc16-df97.jpg

1970 Autocar A7564T, Cummins SC NTC350, RTO-915
1986 Loadking 352 DFP folding gooseneck trailer
PickerRun
Posted 7 Years Ago
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ALUMINUM ROADBLOCK.

The frame is of parade quality if not worse, which leaves a couple options as I can see. I like option 3, but I like to see what others would do.
   1- Spend $1000 dollars in electricity and filler and start welding = Parade truck
   2- Spend $1000 dollars and replace the frame rails with 6061 or 2024 = Parade truck
   3- Contact a company that will make new aluminum frame rails, at unknown cost to exceed $1000 = 1959 80K Roadrunner
   4- Go steel, use old aluminum parts to make new steel parts = 2015 /1959 80K Hybrid thing

Aaron
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Thats a tough one to call,whats the frame like now,is it corroded and flaking, the flaking usually looks worse than it is,clean it off and run a sanding pad over it and you can feather in the edges and will hardly see it,should that be the case, or has it been cracked and broke then repaired,or full of bolt holes,repairing this one may be the most simple way to go,buying new alum rails is expensieve, steel not so bad,you've got it about right for 1000$, but all the holes will need to be drilled, and thats another chapter.


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PickerRun
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I highlighted the crack in yellow. It is through both the main frame and the inner frame. You can get a feel for how deep the corrosion is where the 5th wheel was. I bet that a punch and a hammer would poke a hole in the flange in some spots.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b87e8cf9-bb52-436c-8a78-26ef.jpg
Brad K
Posted 7 Years Ago
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If you were to go with option 2-4, you'd be tearing the entire truck apart.  If doing that, would it be possible, or cost effective, to have the corrosion repaired and the frames heat treated?  I thought these frames were 6061-T6 anyhow.  Why would option 2 be parade truck?  Is it because you would be using a standard size channel and not the original size?  Is option 3 even possible?

http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/228c0354-092a-42c2-bc16-df97.jpg

1970 Autocar A7564T, Cummins SC NTC350, RTO-915
1986 Loadking 352 DFP folding gooseneck trailer
PickerRun
Posted 7 Years Ago
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She is pretty much torn apart at this point, so that doesn't worry me too much.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7a72e12a-9103-44cf-a608-3b96.jpg
From what I can find
 6061 T6 has a yield of 40K and tensile strength of 45K
Steel from PGAdams link on this site yields at 80K or 100K and a tensile strength of 95K or 110K
I just don't trust option 2 based off of the numbers above, the last thing I want is to break in half or worse yet hurt other motorists.
I am waiting for a response back from an outfit in Chicago on option 3, (big bucks too) somehow I think they are going to tuck tail because it's for a road application. Off road would be a different story.

Brad K
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I don't see why the tensile strength would matter.  The aluminum channel is huge compared to the steel, it's nearly 3/8" thick and 12" tall.  A steel frame is what, 6 or 8" and only about 3/16 thick?  They should have equivalent load capacities if in good shape.



http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/228c0354-092a-42c2-bc16-df97.jpg

1970 Autocar A7564T, Cummins SC NTC350, RTO-915
1986 Loadking 352 DFP folding gooseneck trailer
Aaron
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Steel rails can be had in just about any thickness and height needed, 5/16 being pretty popular, but 3/8 is used quite a bit, with it you don't need a glove unless your in a heavy haul or off road application.
 That crack is kinda standard with pad suspension, thats from the brackets working side to side to cause them to crack between the ears, drill the ends have it welded up clean the rest of it off and put a 1/4 or 5/16 glove inside and carry on, or find rails in a salvage yard with the suspension you want and cut and weld behind the cab where your frame is good.


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idshred
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Pickerrun, I was in a similar situation as you this last winter/spring with the frame rails on my 76 peterbilt. My .02 would be to take your rails all the way out and clean the corrosion up, see what you have left, and then decide what to do from there. If you really could poke a hole through with a punch they could be past the point of saving. I decided to clean/reuse my rails. It was a LOT of work. But I feel like I did a proper job and the truck is currently grossing 80000 on a daily basis hauling wheat and barley during harvest. If you'd be interesting in hearing what I did/what products I used let me know.
wayne graham
Posted 7 Years Ago
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There is no doubt in my mind. I would call PG Adams. 5/16 x 10 1/2 are good up to 280 wheel base. If you don't already have one I recommend a magnetic slug cutter from Milwaukee. They are around 1100 on Amazon and will come from Northern Tool.

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