1980 Peterbilt 359 Internation Transport


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By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
My new truck finally came in the mail on Friday and I got to spend the long weekend with it. Has been sitting around not run since 2000, 800k original on the truck. Really a pretty solid old truck although nowhere near as nice as my last one (I was really spoiled with that truck). Someone had previously tried to get it running with no success so the first step is to dig in and make that happen. Motor turns, and I've never had a Detroit that would turn but wouldn't run. Here's the first pictures of delivery and initial assessment.





First things first with a Detroit and that's freeing up the injectors. Since I always get questions on how to do this I made a video.



After I got the injectors unstuck I hooked up some batteries and hit the button.... nothing. Cleaned every connection on the series parallel and still nothing. Series Parallel clicks, but no starter rotation. Began looking at other connections, noticed all battery terminals were cleaned by whoever previously tried so this problem is not new. While cleaning connections on the starter I found a broken wire which is what sends 24v back to the series parallel on the small side of it to actuate the starter solenoid. Now we've got crank!

and crank, and crank and crank and ether and it'll crank faster with ether but no fire. Just some smoke. Obvious no fuel is obvious. Notice during cranking turbo doesn't want to spin freely. Upon closer inspection I find this:



ENTIRE exhaust housing full of mouse nest. I've got a remedy for that too.

Remove feed line to pump and attach to an elevated funnel filled with fuel. Results:





Not too shabby. Entire passenger bank is cold, fuel's pissing out somewhere. I've been down this road. No fun at all. Notice no coolant in engine at all and oil cooler drain wide open. I figure lets get coolant in it before we go any further. Fill with water, immediately discover why it was drained.



incoherent cursing. rinse and repeat for 5 minutes.

drain system, and loop cooling system at the pump bypassing both heater cores.

refill with water. Time to take care of that mouse nest. Button up turbo up-pipes start truck and rev to 2100. turbo's clear.  

Now we can move on to tackling the worst job on a Detroit. Fuel lines.



Found the culprit:



Also noticed the fuel lines on the engine side of the junction all use the cheaper thinner braided hose. At some point this must've changed because my last truck was all premium grade. This is a problem becuase the fittings don't interchange and all the line I have in stock is premium. UGH. Ran around for an entire day chasing my tail. Finally $162 and 8 fittings later:



Well worth the effort, runs MUCH better, all cylinders within 10 degrees of each other and no smoke and no slobber. Next step is to get it to run off it's own tank. See how that goes tonight. Then it's on to the oh so much fun job of getting the rest of the electrics to work other than the one clearance light that currently works.


By carlotpilot - 2 Years Ago
I can certainly sympathize with you went through every thing you just described with a det. in a co kw `finaly got it to smoke but still would`nt run turned out to be a broken blower shaft
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
that was my next place to go had it not started however i had a hunch with the amount of smoke and flow out of the manifolds that the blower was indeed turning.
By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
Great video Wayne, showing the step by step that works for you. I thought you might show my screwdriver trick, using a flat blade screwdriver slipped through the colapsed injector spring, when the injector is stuck down, twisting the blade to pop the spring to it's extended position, then tapping it down again to repeat the procedure. Sometimes it's necessary to loosen or remove one end of the control tube to have access to the injector spring.   If so, I always try to remove the quarter inch bolts on the stand opposite the governor links to minimize the disturbance to the tune up. Your version with the vice grip on the follower and prying it with a curved prybar is probably the best shade tree  fix that doesn't disturb the previous tune up .     Next video, show your helper Tracey,  helping where 2 hands ain't enough !
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Definitely good points Dan! I really don't like to disturb the tune up if at all possible! Tracey is camera shy!
By roKWiz - 2 Years Ago
Great looking truck Wayne, I knew it couldn't be long before another one came your way.
I also enjoyed the video on freeing up the injectors and rack but I'm still terrified of mine.
Keep posting up the video's.
By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
Rock-------Have faith and don't be terrified !
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Did a bunch more work to it, gutted entire interior to clean mouse nests etc. Cleaned all the panels and reassembled installed new steering wheel etc. Interior come out like new. Also had a broken wire in the sleeper harness so none of the lights worked which I fixed and all is well now.  Had an injector go down on Sunday, clobbering out the airbox hard, fuel in exhaust etc. Also another one on same bank cutting in and out but not slobbering. Ripped out all the 9a90s and tossed in 9g90s. Now shes set for 475 and more importantly no slobber or cutting in and out. I need to go through and set the valves and inj heights yet, but it runs so good i'm in no rush. I'm not going to maintain this thread much this forum doesn't seem to get too much traffic. I got a thread over on bigmacktrucks, much more active i'll just do that. 

By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
Hey !  NO !   Don't desert us for the Mack site !     I never go there 'cause Mack hasn't acknowledged a Detroit since the Superliner days, with only one known in West Virginia .

Have you roadtested it yet ?
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
nooooo I haven't. I have to swap tires on the front rear and do brakes. Someone put new shoes but they're rust jacked to the point that even though the brakes are caged they're dragging. Then I've gotta put an air compressor on it also and get the rest of the lights working. Lots to do!
By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
You think excessive oil in the air system ?  
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
Keep posting here, much more in the wheel house what your truck is then big Mack trucks, nice site but more Mack related than anything else
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago

Started to clean er up. 

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Found a few bonuses in the bottom compartment of the sleeper door that wouldn't open.

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Noticed a small amount of mouse nest while vacuuming under the cab's passenger rear interior panel. Had to see how far the rabbit hole went. Just vacuumed for now, they're tunneled behind all the interior panels in the foam far as I can tell. Spring it'll get gutted and dynamatted etc. For now a vacuum will do. Nothing on earth I hate more than mice, they're even worse than Prius drivers.

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By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago

What a weekend. The rabbit hole went pretty deep as it turns out.... or should I say mouse hole. Ended up completely gutting the interior of the truck. They tunneled through all the foam everywhere.

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Wasn't going to do the sleeper originally but glad I did. Pulled the headliner down and out fell this mess onto the cab floor:

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Picture does it no justice it was like 5" deep. A dead mouse also fell out, I hope he died a very slow and agonizing death.


Once we were all vacuumed out I spent lots of time fabreezing and cleaning the foam etc. fabreezed and cleaned the back of all the interior panels also. Then while I had wiring exposed I decided to chase the things that didn't work in the truck. Nothing in the sleeper worked so I started by chasing the lighting circuit and found I had no power. Found a broken wire in the harness where it comes in to the sleeper from the cab. Bingo lights work!! Figured out the heating controls back there too and now all that works. Next I decided to figure out why all but one of my clearance lights didn't work. UGH. 

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UGH that'll do it. Gotta order clearance lights. Also the headlights didn't work at all, one click of the high beam switch on the floor and bingo we've got headlights. Needs a switch, I have no high beams no big deal. I chased some wiring in the dash and got all the gauge backlights working too. I need to buy the infrared switch label illumination from peterbilt as that doesn't work real well. Once I was done chasing electrics and now that the interior had a day to air out I decided to re-assemble and clean the interior. Here's a good before and after shot of the cleaned up interior. Sleeper door is before, panel next to it is after.

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Put on my sweet chrome nut covers my buddy gave me LOL

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Swapped the steering wheel from the junk black foam one to this nice white one my buddy gave me. Interior cleaned up fantastic!!!!

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I need a bushing for the bottom of this Fuller remote shift assy: Peterbilt part number for the assembly is 05-05930 if anyone can cross that to a fuller number and get me a parts breakdown??? Thanks in advance. It's an RTO12513

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By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Jeff and AW, yall keep posting here and I'll keep posting here! lol I've always loved this site I just wish everybody would post more.
By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
Go easy on the gingerbread to keep it looking like a 1980 time capsule survivor.
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
I'll keep posting love this site, not a lot of action, but the old boys know their stuff
By Aaron - 2 Years Ago
What that is is a remote tower it bolts in place of the stick tower and extends towards the rear of the trans to put the stick in the correct spot in the floor of the cab, as the driptroits are shorter than a Cummins or Cat this was a necessary evil, those extensions came in different lengths but all the service parts are the same, I believe it was a Petrerbilt part not a fuller part.
 The parts page you posted doesn't have the parts for this.
By wayne graham - 2 Years Ago
Tony, I suspect that is an International part but I seem to be wrong a lot.

By Aaron - 2 Years Ago
Similar but different,what you have there is to bring the tower out to the side of the box on a cabover for the linkage to match up, or thats what it looks like to me.
I'll get a pic of what I have.
By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
Tony-----The boxes you pictured are for a COE remote tower.    Looks like that Pete part is OEM only .
By kblackav8or - 2 Years Ago
Lots of progress in a pretty short time. 
By Aaron - 2 Years Ago
Dog Leg to move the shifter back because of short engines.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/c9b94f40-d172-4c3f-aa16-5ce1.jpg




By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Aaron (10/22/2017)
Dog Leg to move the shifter back because of short engines.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/c9b94f40-d172-4c3f-aa16-5ce1.jpg






That is exactly the part Aaron!!! On the bottom where the stick extends down into that L off the shaft there is a bushing in there .... well there WAS a bushing in there 30 years ago. Anyway now she's sloppier than all hell and I need that bushing. Anybody ever change one? I had the same issue on my 74 and nobody could get me a part for it either.

By Aaron - 2 Years Ago
I replaced bushings in those years ago but that was 30 years.
If you can get to the older Pete books and get the part number a search thru Peteerbilt might turn up something, I'll look again and see if mine has it in it to see what its made like.
By Aaron - 2 Years Ago
Thats one of two missions for today.
By Aaron - 2 Years Ago
I've got two of those extensions and neither one has the bushing in them, there isn't much room around the ball end of the shift lever to the side of the rod hole, an 1/8 to 3/16 is what it looks like.
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
Should not be horribly hard to machine a bushing for it, Shifter has most likely a ball end
By Aaron - 2 Years Ago
They were plastic and snapped into the eye, but I would think that a shotgun shell bushing could be made to work.
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
worst case I'll do exactly what I did to the last one... get it apart and weld up the ball on the end bigger and grind back to a sphere. Not much for updates I've been busy rebuilding the transmission in my bulldozer and reinstalling it. It's starting to get cold here so i dumped the water out of the truck and got some coolant in it and ran it to temperature to circulate. Sure starts and runs excellent!!!! I got the new radio, cb and speakers in the mail last week, only had time to throw the speakers in quick. Hope to tackle the radio and cb soon.
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
So the following day after I put coolant in the truck and ran it to temp I went outside to show my buddy the truck who hasn't seen it yet and opened the hood and checked the coolant. Radiator empty..... uh oh. Pulled dipstick.... way over full. You know where this is going.... pulled drain plug got 5 gallons of coolant before i got any oil out. LOL Pulled the pan off today.



No traces in airbox or under valve covers. I believe I'm a victim of an old style water pump with no weephole.

Water pump on order.
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
We had some IHC trucks with Caterpillar engines do just that, new waterpump and down the road they went for another 10 years
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 2 Years Ago
I'm not understanding the situation. What does a weephole have to do with coolant in the basement?
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
Weep hole gives the coolant a path to escape when the waterpump seal goes bad. Om some diesel engines the waterpump can leak coolant into the oil pan.
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Tony you're correct that first picture of a 53 series pump which are externally driven by a belt in which case they can only leak externally. The 71s and 92s are driven off the front cam via a gear that is bathed in crankcase oil. Early styles had no weep hole so when the internal seal goes bad it puts coolant in the basement. Newer updated designs have the weephole and it's a good size. Here are a few pictures for reference.

New style (the big square hole is weep hole)



Old style


As you can see without the weep hole the only place for the coolant to go is through the gear side to the oil.
By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
I'd find it hard to believe that an original OEM pump would have NO weep hole at all.   But could believe some reverse engineered product  might have taken that shortcut .   With the drilled hole at an angle compounded by the curvature of the fan blades that would plug the hole so you wouldn't know it was there.  But you could be lucky  yet.   Didn't know that was you posting in Spanish on that U-tube video .
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Finished up the stereo,cb, and speaker install on sunday. I can't wait to get this thing on the road.

Some fresh speakers behind the factory covers in the cab and in the sleeper



Sounds awesome and looks good in there.
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
Looks good Wayne
By Junkmandan - 2 Years Ago
You think you're gonna hear a radio with straight pipes ?
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
it's a loud radio ;)
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago

Did the water pump job Friday and got all the fluids back in on Saturday and got her running again. Easy job woulda been ALOT nicer inside in a heater bay instead of outside in 15degree weather. UGH I hate winter. Even still I had the pump off in under 40 minutes.



Confirmation:



Turns out the old pump does have a weep hole but it was very small and plugged. Also totally invisible to check in this application.



Had a bunch of minor leaks when finished which were all hose clamps not tight enough. Think I've got em all squared away and I moved the truck to it's winter location. I'll check again tonight.

By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Little bit of cold start fun on the old 8v92. Enjoy!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJvzsFevEKc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIP7x18AsKs


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANEDZXY-vLs
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
Old diesels just hate to wake up in the cold don't they. Was looking at the video of the lazy 6/71, have you entertained the thought of the torque converter being junk?
By Wayne64SS - 2 Years Ago
Yes and at this point I've ruled out everything engine related.
By aw12345 - 2 Years Ago
No torque multiplication, stall speed near idle and black smoke seems to fit in my book. Try running it in gear with the rear wheels of the ground, when reved up apply brake pedal see if it seems to have power then
By C_hasbeen - 2 Years Ago
Wayne64SS (11/6/2017)
Finished up the stereo,cb, and speaker install on sunday. I can't wait to get this thing on the road.

Some fresh speakers behind the factory covers in the cab and in the sleeper

I have the same Uniden Bearcat in my bat mobile and I sure do like it, the stock microphone has a lot to be desired, I put an amplified midland mic on mine and sure like it, I especially like how fast it will scan through the channels and the weather radio.  I think when I get my white operational I am going to go old school cobra 29 ~ 23 channel just because!

Sounds awesome and looks good in there.


By 359er - 2 Years Ago
Wayne, was your other truck the one you got from Don Cook west of Alpena, Mi.? I live there too and know him well although he is in a home now with alsheimers.
By Wayne64SS - Last Year
the yellow v12 truck? if so no I got that from the original owners in New Mexico.
By Wayne64SS - Last Year
Been awhile... though I had a buyer for this but as is typical money never appeared. Was only selling it so I wouldn't have to see it sit any more so I decided since I didn't need to sell it we'd make a better choice. 

First lets get the old girl pulled out of the weeds.



Next lets get it turned around and in a spot we can work on it a little easier.



Lets get to work shall we:





By Wayne64SS - Last Year
As you can see the back half of the truck needs.... everything. lol 
We also had a bunch of work to do up front. The radiator has always had a leak at the seam right above the lower outlet. Out she comes.
On top of that the single rounds and rock shields looked like complete shit and had to go!
This poor radiator was in ROUGH shape.
Here you can see where the leak was. The corrosion in this area was so bad it actually snapped all the bolts above that outlet.
Core is filthy but appeared in good shape otherwise.
First trip to the store. Ugh. The bleeding begins.
Decided to pull a front wheel and have a look. Not too shabby.
Cleaned up nice!

By Wayne64SS - Last Year
Swapped my steers over to some real wheels and put it back together in the front.
Getting back to the part that really needs attention. She's lost her fifth and fenders.
Broke a shock mount in the process so I unbolted it. Also got rid of the bent rear crossmember.
Pulling airbags etc.
Got a set of REAL headlights mounted. That's how a Peterbilt is supposed to look.
Still coming apart however:
Oh man this can't be good. What is all this?
And so it begins...
Typical I get done sandblasting at 3am just in time for rain. God I love NY (sarcasm)
The plan was to primer Saturday but ended up getting rained out so we had to make a mad dash and primer AND paint for 14 hours on Sunday,
as this was to be the last good weekend of the year and it's gonna rain on Monday. UGH. Wouldn't have made it without my wife's help.
At least it came out good!

By Wayne64SS - Last Year
Typical... have to tarp for rain again!
Luckily paint cured just fine. It's as close as I could get it to the body color. I brought a panel with me to napa to match to when I bought the paint.
With the truck paint cleaned up (not even buffed yet) it's a whole lot closer. Really excited to buff the truck next year now!!
So what I haven't mentioned is that in the mean time the radiator has been at a radiator repair shop... now i did ALL the hard work and spent 12 hours removing all the fasteners and extracting broken ones etc. I loosely reassembled and punch marked everything for location and delivered to the shop to be cleaned, rodded etc. What I got back from them was half assembled radiator they said the core was bad on because of a small crack between 2 bolt holes on the header flange. They wanted $3000 for just the new core plus I had to pay $400 regardless for their halfass assembly work. I got this thing back and it wasn't even assembled properly let alone cleaned or painted. Didn't even bother removing corrosion in places. Needless to say I'll never bring anything to acme radiator in watervliet ny ever again. So now that the radiator is back home lets do it the right way... fully disassembled yet AGAIN. This time I sandblasted them myself.
Since I had the blaster out I did the 5th and plate.... too bad the plate is wasted on the bottom side.
Painting all my freshly blasted radiator parts:
My buddy was able to fix the core no problem and the radiator shop did rod it before they found the crack so I figured I'd better paint it.
Man she looks great all assembled right?!?!?!
Sadly this radiator saga was far from over. Upon pressure test I found the sandblaster uncovered a porous casting on the lower tank. What you're seeing is water weeping through the casting in that spot. Back apart she comes.
Took me twice to get it right but i finally ended up grinding it wide open and then using some DEVCON aluminum putty to repair.

By Wayne64SS - Last Year
Successfully completed a pressure test! About time. I can't express how bad this thing fought me.
Fully assembled and ready for install. I'm also painting the air bleeds for the upper hoses.
In the mean time i flushed the cooling system with cummins RESTORE while at temperature and then about 5 times with water.

Then since my drums were in excellent shape with almost no lip my buddy was able to turn them for me and after that I blasted them.
Then we got them and the tops of the bags and the fan painted up.
Then I got the radiator and fan etc put back in the truck. Sure looks a bunch better.
What you don't see in this picture is the truck got all new wheel bearings, races, seals, and s-cam bushings all the way around.
Finally ready for some new brakes and slacks!
Bitch was thirsty.
Finally over the radiator hurdle and holding coolant!

By Wayne64SS - Last Year
Had to paint a few more miscellaneous items like this bracket for the leveling valve and also that shock mount i replaced.
That brings us to present day with the back end all assembled with everything new. I was able to move it under its own power back into the weeds until spring. In the spring I will do all the air lines and finish buttoning it up.
September 23rd is when I pulled this out of the weeds to get started and I just put it back again Sunday night 11/25. Not too bad of progress for 2 months. IMO. Thanks for reading through this mess, see yall in spring.
By Junkmandan - Last Year
Not quite overnight success ..   But you've come a long way, son !  You've been a quick learner .
By roKWiz - Last Year
Really nice. Love your work Wayne. I wish I could get things done on my Louie as fast as you.
By Stretch - Last Year
I take it that you're a fan of AVE on Youtube.

By Wayne64SS - Last Year
that dude's the best.
By Wayne64SS - Last Year
just rustoleum it's what i had in stock.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 2 Years Ago
Wayne, please keep posting here. I'm one of the "silent majority" enjoying this thread !
By Tony Bullard - 2 Years Ago
Wayne I'm not sure what I'm seeing here but attached is a parts list for RT0 12513 towers.
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It may help.
By Tony Bullard - 2 Years Ago
Oh! something like this off a RT 910.







I am guessing this one is Fuller.
By Tony Bullard - 2 Years Ago
Thanks Aaron. I've never seen one like that.
If the lower bushing is a spherical bearing the guts from one like this from McMaster may fit.

These oil impregnated brass bearings come in many different sizes.

By Tony Bullard - 2 Years Ago
I would guess the bushing is something like this where the stick moves slightly up and down through the bore.

Search for spherical plain bearings.

By Tony Bullard - 2 Years Ago
Aaron (10/23/2017)
I replaced bushings in those years ago but that was 30 years.
If you can get to the older Pete books and get the part number a search thru Peteerbilt might turn up something, I'll look again and see if mine has it in it to see what its made like.

Did you get a chance to see what its made like?


By Tony Bullard - 2 Years Ago
The side mount remote shiftier that you guys helped identify for me has no bushing either. The socket is a straight bore to allow the ball to move up and down in it as it moves front to back. There is a line contact between the ball and the bore.