56-57? International S182


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By ShelbyK - Last Year
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I just bought this Sunday. I have admired big old trucks from afar for a long time. I am now an entry level collector. 

What I know:
56 or 57 IH S-182
Straight six. Probably 282. Not currently running but has within the last few years.
Five Speed Spicer w/pto
Two Speed Eaton rear
Tulsa Winch.
Original color was pale yellow.
Brakes probably shot. All the lines are rotten. Master cylinder needs rebuilt. Maybe Booster, too. 
Two cracked Daytons. Both inside rear. Tires are dry rotted but aren't super flat so holding air.
Electrical probably needs to be gutted. 

What I don't know:
I want to change all the fluids first and try to get it to start. What oils should I use for the various parts?
Weld the rims back together? Not doing anything heavy with it. I know it's worth converting them all to 22.5 but not right now. 
What else should I be looking for or at?
What would you do first?

I'm thinking start it. Then brakes. Then electrical/lights. Tires. PTO/winch. Body work.
Thoughts?
By Eddy Lucast - Last Year
I'd spent a couple weeks looking over it before I create a to do list.
As far as welding rims I think it's an extreme no no! Unless you have a really big insurance policy! And don't mind losing it.
Someone will be along soon that can tell you what to look for.
By Brocky - Last Year
I agree with Eddy, Take a while to look it over good and create a list of things you have to do, then sort them out by priority!! There are 20 inch rims available. Check with tire shops that service container chassis. Many of them are still running tube type tires. Another source might be storage trailer rental places. They might even have some real cheap..like scrap price!! If you are going to have to buy new tires, or 50% (+/-) used ones are fine for a hobby truck, you might as well go tubeless now instead of spending money on tube type rims. If it has never had modern detergent oil in it, or you are not sure, pull the valve cover and look for sludge. If there is much you will have to drop the pan and clean it out and wash the inside of the engine otherwise new oil will break the sludge free and plug things up. Any modern 15-40 oil should be OK. I would probably go with 85-140 gear oil?? More experienced guys will probably jump in and correct me!! With hydraulic brakes rebuild the whole system including brake lines!! Stopping is the most important part!! Before you can go!! Use ONLY NON ethanol gas!! This new $h!t will eat up old rubber lines, fuel pumps, and carbs>>>>
By ShelbyK - Last Year
I pulled the spark plugs last night and the 6th cylinder poured coolant... joy. I guess I'll be tearing it down more than I wanted to.
I think the last owner put clean oil and antifreeze in it. Plenty of oil on the dipstick but black. No coolant in the oil. 

As soon as I published the post I thought, "what moron would weld those rims together..." So yeah. The both broke where the hole is for the valve stem.

I think I'll keep an eye on craigslist and auction websites for 22.5s, 20s and used tires. Also a couple of places I can think of to call. I put 40lbs in the fronts, 60 in the outer duals and 30 in the inners and everything seems to be holding for now.

Hooked up a battery with the plugs out to see if it would turn over at all and nothing. Not sure if the starter actually kicked all the way in. Took the clutch cover off to see if I could move the flywheel and not even a budge so I think it's stuck. 

Any ideas on unsticking it without tearing it all the way apart? Pull it around the yard and drop the clutch?

Source for rebuild kits? Gasket sets?

How do you tell if it's a BD282 or 302?

Can someone send me a close shot of the hood ornament and the two little decoration things from the sides of the hood? All are missing.


By Brocky - Last Year
First of all Google "Red Power" There is an I-H Website that has that or similiar name. Mostly farm tractors but has a truck section to answer some of your questions. Also search on this website for user name "Jeepers Creepers" Whose real name is Dan Cornet, lives in Kentucky, He is a I-H man with several "Hi Binders".. and I-H Trucks.
With Coolant is #6 you will probably have to pull the head to replace the head gasket??
You can try the pull start start method of breaking it loose, BUT do NOT get rambunctious!! You are apt to break other things that can get expensive!! After the head is off, and/or pull the valve rocker shaft, put a socket and bar on the front of the crankshaft inside the vibration dampener. This will tell you if your "Stuck" is in the valve train or the piston rings. If in the rings, fill the cylinders with penetrating solvent and let soak. Eddy Lucast, this sites owner and sponsor sells a KBS product called Rust Blast which is very good. If it does not free up in a week or so, fit your bar where you can put a jack under it, jack it up to put some of the truck weight on it, and give it another week keeping an eye on it, when the truck settles some, jack again.. Have Patience!!!
By Hamish - Last Year
ShelbyK (6/17/2020)
I pulled the spark plugs last night and the 6th cylinder poured coolant... joy. I guess I'll be tearing it down more than I wanted to.
I think the last owner put clean oil and antifreeze in it. Plenty of oil on the dipstick but black. No coolant in the oil. 

As soon as I published the post I thought, "what moron would weld those rims together..." So yeah. The both broke where the hole is for the valve stem.

I think I'll keep an eye on craigslist and auction websites for 22.5s, 20s and used tires. Also a couple of places I can think of to call. I put 40lbs in the fronts, 60 in the outer duals and 30 in the inners and everything seems to be holding for now.

Hooked up a battery with the plugs out to see if it would turn over at all and nothing. Not sure if the starter actually kicked all the way in. Took the clutch cover off to see if I could move the flywheel and not even a budge so I think it's stuck. 

Any ideas on unsticking it without tearing it all the way apart? Pull it around the yard and drop the clutch?

Source for rebuild kits? Gasket sets?

How do you tell if it's a BD282 or 302?

Can someone send me a close shot of the hood ornament and the two little decoration things from the sides of the hood? All are missing.



Shelby K, it will either be a BD282 or BD308-not sure how to tell the difference.
By Wolfcreek_Steve - Last Year
One thing you definitely don't want to do, is try to jerk start it with coolant in a cylinder.
By Jeeperscreepers - Last Year
Shelby,  I'm not an expert on these old IH's by any means.  A lot of people on the forum know a whole lot more than I do about them.  To locate the motor model, look at the front of the motor just below the valve cover.  There is a raised flat spot, you may have to sand it off, that has the model stamped on it.  I was thinking on the drivers side but may be on the passenger side.  You should be able to locate all kinds of 20" two piece rims.  Check with the local trucker's.  They may give them to you to get rid of them.   Pieces for the side of the cab are scarce.  Sometimes the come up on Ebay at about $75 a pop.  Hood ornaments pop up occasionally.  My first recommendation, depending on how serious you are, would be to get a parts manual.  I think the MT-103 manual covers your truck.  You'll also find them on Ebay.
I can say 10,000 words before I can type 10.  Feel free to call me.  My number is in my profile.  Oldihc.org is another good site for parts and know how.  http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/636a347d-e23d-4583-a9f2-06a1.jpghttp://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/422aedd9-05b9-4a17-a5b3-56d0.jpg
By ShelbyK - Last Year
I found the stamp last night. BD308.
Found a place in WA for Gaskets. Olsonsgaskets.com
$297.50 for the top end kit. Sound right?
Yesterday my son and I pulled the seat out and he swept all the literal and other crap out.

This is going to be fun.
By Eddy Lucast - Last Year
The Olsons are good people.
By ShelbyK - Last Year
Any idea how to figure out what kind of transmission is in this thing? I don't think it's a spicer. 5 speed. 1 and R are in your thigh and long throw (don't know which is which), and the others are shorter.
By Steve s. - Last Year

Nice truck. It is going to give you a fine education. Those cracked wheels you mention might actually be true split rims. If that's the case, there may be nothing at all wrong with them. Compare the two wheels and see if the "cracks" are identical. If they are, you probably don't need to replace them unless you want to. Of course any multi piece rim requires special care and handling so be safe. 

By Tony Bullard - Last Year
ShelbyK (6/23/2020)
Any idea how to figure out what kind of transmission is in this thing? I don't think it's a spicer. 5 speed. 1 and R are in your thigh and long throw (don't know which is which), and the others are shorter.


Why don't you think its a Spicer? 1 and R are long through.


By ShelbyK - Last Year
Tony. I’m just going off of what I can’t find. Spicer’s ID tags are pretty consipicuous and seem to have a designated place. This doesn’t have the tag or the place for it.

Steve. They’re really cracked. They are snap ring and that’s fine but the two inner duals are cracked all the way through across the width of the wheel. Along the hole cut out for the valve stem.

As for getting it to run... I’m on chemical number 6 over two weeks and have 2 free pistons to show for it. 
I’ve tried:
B’laster penetrating oil
seafoam deep creep
vinegar 
Metal Rescue
Marvel’s Mystery Oil
Evaporust

I have the oil pan and head off. I took off the bottom part of the connecting rods yesterday and pounded on them. I also just started spraying the evaporust into the cylinders from the bottom. 
What am I missing? What should I do?
By Brocky - Last Year
Shelby, Have Patience!!!!!!!!
Sometimes beating, hammering, and yanking on a bar does not do as good as a constant pressure over time.. go back to my earlier post about a bar ans socket on the crank and putting the weight of the truck on the bar via a bottle jack..
And email Eddy for some rust Blast..
By Eddy Lucast - Last Year
Metal Ready and Evaporust are two of the mildest acids on the market.
By wayne graham - Last Year
Acetone and ATF 50-50. Those pistons will give up.

By Mike Harbison Sr. - Last Year
ShelbyK (7/1/2020)
Tony. I’m just going off of what I can’t find. Spicer’s ID tags are pretty consipicuous and seem to have a designated place. This doesn’t have the tag or the place for it.

Steve. They’re really cracked. They are snap ring and that’s fine but the two inner duals are cracked all the way through across the width of the wheel. Along the hole cut out for the valve stem.

As for getting it to run... I’m on chemical number 6 over two weeks and have 2 free pistons to show for it. 
I’ve tried:
B’laster penetrating oil
seafoam deep creep
vinegar 
Metal Rescue
Marvel’s Mystery Oil
Evaporust

I have the oil pan and head off. I took off the bottom part of the connecting rods yesterday and pounded on them. I also just started spraying the evaporust into the cylinders from the bottom. 
What am I missing? What should I do?




Those wheels aren't cracked,like someone else mentioned they are true split rims,the lock ring is solid, the rim itself is split.
By ShelbyK - Last Year

If there’s supposed to be a rough, jagged crack in only two of the six rims, I’ll shut up.
3-1/4” socket for the rear Axle nut, in case anyone ever needs to know. Ordered a socket on jbtools.com pretty inexpensive. $20.
Front and rear wheel cylinders ordered from truckID.com along with new flex hoses with all the right fittings. $21 each for the front. $40 each for the rear. Not bad. The rebuild kits were super cheap @ $3.50 but those suckers are so seized up...

Ohh. And I made a rig to hold tension on it since there is 0.0 room to jack up a breaker bar under there. 2” socket, 2’ ratchet. 6’ fence post. I hooked the end of the post to a nearby tree with a come along and put enough tension on it to start bending the post. It’s been like that for about a week and a half. Redneck engineering.

I’ll have to try the acetone and atf.

Thanks for the support, y’all!
By ShelbyK - Last Year
Here goes atf and acetone. 🤞
By Eddy Lucast - Last Year
FYI KBS RustBlast is the strongest phosphoric acid you can buy without a licence and they won't solve your problem in a short amount of time, rather expect them to take a minimum of 24 to 48 hours. Otherwise they'd dissolve the pistons rings and block.
By wayne graham - Last Year
Eddy,I did not mean to undercut your product. I was just always poor and could not afford the store bought good stuff. Kroil is supposed to be good too but I think it is pricy.
By Aaron - Last Year
Wayne, I just broke down recently and tried that Kroil, it is good, I've been using Liquid Wrench and Koil is better, but they think an awful lot of that stuff like you said,19 $ for a small can.
By ShelbyK - Last Year
It budged. Then it moved. Now it spins!!!
Pausing for a moment to get a spring compressor to check all the springs before I throw the head back on.

It works!!!

Thank you guys for your help!!!

By Eddy Lucast - Last Year
Congratulations, it always raises the excitement level when you over come an obstacle.
By Brocky - Last Year
GREAT!!!!  Did you pull the pistons to make sure there are NO broken rings????
By ShelbyK - Last Year
I had finally resigned myself to this being the current “be patient” lesson. Now I’m super excited to get it back together and post a running video.
By ShelbyK - Last Year
Brocky (7/6/2020)
GREAT!!!!  Did you pull the pistons to make sure there are NO broken rings????


Ooo. No. I had a couple of them out and they were pristine. Didn’t check the others. Did check all the connecting rod bearings and they were beautiful. The ones I didn’t check did sit with atf on them all weekend without losing any. Hardly lost any when I was pumping them up and down either.
By ShelbyK - Last Year
More requests for info. I was planning to use 15w-40 motor oil. Better suggestions? 
What about the transmission? I still don’t know what it is for sure. Probably spicer. Regular mtf?
Rear end? Eaton two speed. 80w 90?
By wayne graham - Last Year
Shelby, Is it safe to assume my home brew worked? Way back when we ran 30 wt in those but I supposed nowadays a good 15/40 would work. 80/90 should be fine in the gear boxes Been a long time but I think Clark was also a transmission that was available in those. Don't go by me though it has been a looong time.

By ShelbyK - Last Year
Wayne,
Although it was the most recent thing, I really have no idea. Maybe just being wet over the last two weeks solid made the difference? I will say that the acetone evaporates off pretty quickly so I really don’t know. I was wondering if the acetone and atf negate each other but maybe that’s something in itself. Maybe it’s because I ordered rust blast? There’s plenty of other rust to use it on. 

Now to figure out why there was coolant in cylinder 6. I think it was the head gasket. I hope that’s it because I have the whole kit from Olson’s.

What else do I need to know?
Thank you all for all of the help
By justinpaul - Last Year
Never thought I could find some treasure trove in this thread. Will follow this thread for updates/new issues.
By ShelbyK - Last Year
Justin, 
I am a total noob so feel free to follow along. So far, these guys have been tremendously helpful answering my (probably) stupid questions. Now that I know you're interested, I'll keep filling in as I go.

Wednesday, I got the head back on and ALMOST got the old boy to start. Battery died before he could really get going. Spark, ignition, smoke, dead...

I should have the rest of my brake parts today so I can start on that soon. I'm talking to a buddy about getting the seat to be sit-able. I found out the pto works by accident. It was engaged while trying to start it and started winding up the cable on the winch. I figured out how to get it back to neutral. 

I resurfaced the valves the other day. The valve spring compressor auto zone will lend you is crap. Had to borrow the real deal (like a big C clamp/vice grip thing) from a friend of a friend. Youtube for the win there. A comment on one of the videos I watched lead me to put the stem in the chuck of my drill and pull/pulse it against the seat that way. Much more effective than using the stick or the suction cup on a drill bit...


By ShelbyK - Last Year


It runs!!!
By ShelbyK - Last Year
Houston, we have a problem...

I got the radiator and all that put back together today. I got coolant in it, without much leaking. Then as I was going to put on the new master cylinder I noticed coolant/oil coming out of the back of the oil pan (not sealed enough but happy accident I guess).

I drained the coolant out of the radiator.

What now?
By Eddy Lucast - Last Year
ShelbyK (7/11/2020)


It runs!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdNSM23jK4A
By Brocky - Last Year
Shelby, Could be many things?? Start by pulling the head back off and double checking the head gasket, While at it be sure both the top of the block and the head are square. Might have to magnaflux the head?? Look the block over good for cracks, which might include pulling the pistons??? Hopefully some others will have other suggestions..
By Aaron - Last Year
Could be a bad soft plug on the back of the head or back of block, some carefull checking and you'll find that, I never put anti freeze in a system untill I run it for a while just in case of a leak into the oil, anti freeze doesn't like bearings.
 Keep your old master cylinder, the new ones, inless it isd new old stock, are made out of the US and mainly junk, the pipe threads are straight cut and don't hold fittings very well, and they'll leak, I've been sending masters and whell cylinders out to have stainless sleeved.
By Tony Bullard - Last Year
ShelbyK (7/11/2020)
Houston, we have a problem...

I got the radiator and all that put back together today. I got coolant in it, without much leaking. Then as I was going to put on the new master cylinder I noticed coolant/oil coming out of the back of the oil pan (not sealed enough but happy accident I guess).

I drained the coolant out of the radiator.

What now?


Did you mean BY the back of the pan?
Find a coolant port on the block, heater system, water pump or radiator drain and connect it to a 10 pound air system (air compressor with regulator). Fill the radiator with water. Apply the air pressure. Look for leaks.

Also " coolant/oil " try to figure out if it is coolant or oil or both. Finding its source will very.

By ShelbyK - Last Year
Tony,
The oil pan curves down around the front and back crank bearings. I didn’t get enough sealant on it. It was coming out the back of the pan. Oil and coolant
By ShelbyK - Last Year
Aaron (7/12/2020)
Could be a bad soft plug on the back of the head or back of block, some carefull checking and you'll find that, I never put anti freeze in a system untill I run it for a while just in case of a leak into the oil, anti freeze doesn't like bearings.
 Keep your old master cylinder, the new ones, inless it isd new old stock, are made out of the US and mainly junk, the pipe threads are straight cut and don't hold fittings very well, and they'll leak, I've been sending masters and whell cylinders out to have stainless sleeved.


Thanks for the recommendation. I think they’re rebuilt. Mine were too bad to rebuild and I’d rather not trust my own lack of skill when it comes to stopping 8,000lbs of steel.

I’m planning to pull the oil pan and put more water in to see where it comes from. Fingers crossed that it isn’t terminal. I really want the 308 to work. They seem to be really rare.
By Aaron - Last Year
The master and wheel cylinders can be sent out to a speciality shop and bored then fit with a stainless steel sleeve back to orginal size, so unless someone has beat the cylinder with a large hammer they most likely will clean up to work.

 Your telling us that you have water coming out of the oil pan where it didn't seal tight against the block, that sounds kinda odd, I'm with Tony hook up shop air with 5 to 10 pounds of air pressure, no more than that, and see where it actually is coming from, if it truly is coming out of the oil pan then there must be a split cylinder wall, I'm sure that you would have looked the head gasket over carefully to make sure all the holes matched up and there is almost no way to install it wrong, did you torque it correctly, starting in the center and working you way to the end, 10 bucks says Tony has a picture of how to torque that head.
By Tony Bullard - Last Year

BD 308 Torque sequence. Torque 100-110 ft. lb.

By ShelbyK - Last Year
Thanks y’all,
Cylinder six wall is cracked.
Thank you Tony for the diagram. It’s not quite how I did it but it’s pretty close. I googled torque specs for that size bolt and it was 70 so that’s where I went with it. Going to take it to have it bored and sleeved. On a positive note, I’m getting pretty good at tearing this thing down On a positive note, I’m getting pretty good at tearing this thing down

By ShelbyK - Last Year
Tony, you don’t happen to know the tolerances for the valve rockers do you?
By Tony Bullard - Last Year
Here's some valve specs. Attached is more detailed specs on the rockers and the rest of the engine specs.