1948 White WB28T


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By jhancock - 6 Years Ago
The design of the grille and surround is killer! I am looking forward to your updates as the adventure begins.

Jim
By jhancock - 6 Years Ago
Thanks Jeff. Certainly the classic look and influence from the end of the art deco period. What passes today for design is a pale comparison.
By jhancock - 5 Years Ago
I'll second that.  Are you working on two different trucks at the same time?

Hopefully, the front cleans up well for you.
By jhancock - 5 Years Ago
Remember hearing about a guy using Bon Ami to try to get some rings to seal in a small block Chevy.

No idea if it worked or not.  Probably fit the engine rebuild budget....
By jhancock - 3 Years Ago
Yikes!  I always knew exercising was no good.  Rest up!  Are you in some sort of competition with Rick?
By jhancock - 3 Years Ago
Boy, if those aren't the lyrics to a new country song or something...?
By jhancock - Last Year
Very nice bit of kit!

By jhancock - 8 Months Ago
Lots of cleaning.  Time to bring out the power washer!
By John Frances - 6 Years Ago
Jeff Lakaszcyck (15/11/2013)
...how fast (fast being a relative term) could I expect this truck to go at say, 24 or 2500 ? Assuming I could afford the pay the gas bill LOL !


Here's a calculator. The internet says 10.00-20 tires are 39.4" in diameter.
By roKWiz - 4 Years Ago

Nice truck Jeff,
Sacrilegious I know but the saddle tanks would look real cool under the sides of the cab, but I suppose repositioning batteries etc. would be a pain and it would take away the trucks original look. 
Just me thinking out loud.

By Bruce Ohnstad - 6 Years Ago
I've never compared the big and medium sized blocks with external measurements. I think external lengths would be the best way to confirm what I assume, that there were three sizes of blocks, including the smallest blocks under 340 cid. Maybe we could get some measurements posted here that would be good reference for later.

The 250A and earlier engines had a 5.125" stroke and bores going up to 4.0" for a 386 cid. The 250A was preceded by the 362 cid, introduced in 1935. This size engine was common in the W22 series trucks and White cranked out a lot of them for 30 years. They had a 14" clutch.

The 260A and larger and later models had a 5.0" stroke. This size engine came out in the late 1940s. Bore for the 260A was 4.385" for 451 cid, and that block went to 4.75" for 531 cid. They had a 15.5" clutch.

White engine model numbers refer to when the design was introduced, and in the 1950s the last two digits preceded by a 3 or 4. There's little consistency.

White made a couple of main transmissions but most were Clark and some Fuller. 1950s and 60s Motors Manuals had the Model number conversions for White number to vendor number. One competitor info chart I have says the WC 28 used a Fuller 5A-65.

For auxiliary trannies White used Brown Lipe three speeds. White would badge them and give them a H prefix, for example I have a early 1940s 6H.

Jeff, you might just have to jack up a wheel (or push the truck a short distance) with the main in neutral and start spinning driveshafts to see if you have a .86 od or .70 od. For exactly one turn on the input, output shaft would be near 10 o'clock for .86, near 7 o'clock for .7 od.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 6 Years Ago
I happened upon a WA34 Owners manual that I forgot I had. WA34 would have been introduced maybe in 1939 or so. White did not have the big block then so it used the 362 cid. The manual shows just the single rear axle double reduction, the tandem would have been a different manual.

The WA34 had the 501B and 551B White badged Clark transmissions. 1942 Motors lists the 551B was Clark 270. White model 551 had .788 OD. 501B was 5th direct. The Brown Lipe auxiliary had 2.14:1 low and .69 OD.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 6 Years Ago
That's great, Jeff. That's a great feeling. You gave a good description of reviving an engine carefully.

I don't know if there's an official name, but I call the big White 5.0" stroke engines like in the WB and WC 28 big blocks. The WA 28 only had the smaller bore, 5.125" stroke 386 cid engine. Hard to imagine crawling around with that smaller engine. A friend of mine had a WC 22 with a double reduction heavy rear and a 5 and 3, but the WC 22 had the smaller block 386 cid. It was worked by a contractor on the Iron Range in northern Minnesota.

I looked over a Victor gasket catalog, and the smallest Whites and the 386 cid had the same head gasket. So maybe there were only two block sizes. Your dual exhaust manifolds look quite a bit different than the smaller block.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 6 Years Ago
If you need to just test drive you could find a quiet stretch to get it up to fifth gear and rely on the driveshaft brake. The diaphragms are getting hard to get (but still found through Bendix partsfinder database, and a willing parts clerk...) Check carefully to see that the diaphragm housing base is not cracked, or the top cover. Broken housings will help decide if you need/want to go to a modern brake.

What about brake valves? The Whites used remote mounted brake valves connected by linkage to the pedal. This was B4 models. I have a 1947 with a B4.

1942 Motors Manual says the B4 valves were used for larger flow without a relay valve. Treadle valve model D was used with relay valves, the relay being able to put volume to the brakes.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 5 Years Ago
That's shocking, Jeff.  I wonder how it could have filled that much in all boxes.  It must be condensation.  I wonder if some people drain the boxes for some reason?  We bought a C 800 fuel truck with transmission and rear empty of oil.

That old heavy grease was a good preservative, so it may have coated the steel enough.  Like you say, a small amount of surface rust might be ok on a hobby truck.  You can live with rough bearings if they are not under heavy load or long trips. 

My Colorado truck 3 speed Brownie was missing the PTO cover.  No oil, an inch of dirt, rust on the gears.  They cleaned up quite well, although Colorado rust is minimal compared to wetter climates.
Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 4 Years Ago
Good news, Jeff.  I've never seen a chunk like that, maybe the other guys can speculate on how it happened.  It could be a material defect.
The pinion gear is smooth, right?  The picture shows what looks like galling, but maybe that's a reflection in the picture.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 3 Years Ago
I looked on my WB 22 and the bumper is held with two bolts horizontal into the front crossmember bracket.  The hook clamps on top of the frame with two other bolts.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 2 Years Ago
Jeff, do you have the engine also?  If so, what model is it?  People are frequently asking about engines.  That axle is a later model axle, maybe a 134C?  Ratio stamped on the pinion carrier.

That fifth wheel looks large for a WC 20, so it will be good for your beast.  Is it 36" wide? 

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 2 Years Ago
what's this grader hijacking?  I looked at earlier posts, trying to figure the grader out, and I see there was a possibility of getting detail pictures of that 5th wheel on Jeff's WC 20 chassis.  You've got some interesting projects, Jeff.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - Last Year
Fine enough for the space shuttle!  Keep us posted on the intricacies of the big bore White flatheads.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 4 Years Ago
In pursuing the auxiliary questions, I came across a early 1940s White 922 (similar to the 722 model, stock White OHV engine with tandem rears)  The picture is from our Scandinavian friend Sven Bengston.  It shows a Brownie auxiliary, winch mounts, and what looks like a powertower on the auxiliary.

I still am wondering why Spicer used straight cut spur gears on the 703?  The 6031 and 6041 had power towers, so what advantage did the 703 have?  It did have more low gear ratio, 2.4:1.

One thing haunts me, in 2012 I bought a 6231 with a side PTO at an auction for $65.  No one else wanted it after the scrappers quit bidding.  The auctioneer also offered me a bigger auxiliary with a flat top for the same price, but I didn't have space or application for the big box and I couldn't haul both in my car.  Now I wonder if it was a 703???  and I'll never find out....

Bruce
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/3dc6f0d4-91e7-43e6-ac41-74af.jpg
By Bruce Ohnstad - 3 Years Ago
That's slappin' a big slice of ham on our plate!  This fills in a lot.  The three digit model indicates that B-L brought this out before the 6031.  You even have a picture of the power tower.  That power tower and lower case looks like the one in that old Cummins powered truck with the International cab recovered in North Dakota recently. 

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 3 Years Ago
good, diligent work on the chassis, Jeff. 
can you squeeze any liability out of the mutt owner? 

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 3 Years Ago
I think that front tow hook bolt pattern might be the same as the smaller W 22 series, which should be a little more common.  I've got a WB22 that I can measure the bolt distances to compare.
Yes the threads hold the pull, not the best, unfortunately.  What was White thinking?
Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 3 Years Ago
The things I wonder about on the White 700 and W series front hook bolts, or cap screws, is that the hook pulls the bolt in pure tension.  Ordinary tow hooks have the bolts in shear, but also gets a lot more shear strength from the friction of the hook clamped to the frame.

Second, the White hook cap screws screw into a blind hole in the front crossmember casting.  If the bolts stay tight and not jerked or pushed sideways excessively they probably hold up well, but I'm thinking if the hook was jerked or bolt had side load, it might distort or strip the threads and would need a helicoil to repair.  With the fender metal surrounding the bolt holes, the truck looks like it's saying "oh no!" (right before it got hit or jerked)

Jeff, are you saying that your hooks bent but the threads were still good? 

Enclosed is a picture of my 1942 722, which would be similar to a W 28.  Hooks and bumper missing and the hook bolt holes look worn/distorted.  Also notice the shopmade grill.  They actually did a nice job.  This truck may have had a heavy bumper or fixture for winch and excavator work.

Bruce
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/43504367-56db-4bec-8e1a-28cc.jpg

By Bruce Ohnstad - 4 Years Ago
I'll need to keep up with this brake replacement. I've got similar needs on the rear axle. My 643 is all stock with G (if I recall) size diaphragms, but I hope to get my 630 on the highway, so I'm considering air-loss brake safety on the rear axle.

I've got new diaphragms for the front but need one of those low pressure return springs.

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 4 Years Ago
I don't have fresh recollection of the 8xxx series of Brownies, just the 6xxx.  Does a 3 speed have the square flat top?  I thought that would have been 4 speeds.
Enclosed is a 1959 White accessories pic of saddle tanks.  Later than 1948, of course, this is just to tease.
Bruce

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7c5bca90-674d-4005-b70e-c679.jpg


By Bruce Ohnstad - 4 Years Ago
Why did Spicer design an auxiliary with sliding gear instead of constant mesh, and use spur gears instead of helical?  The 7000 series is never listed in the Motors books, just the 6031, 6231 and the 8000 series.  Were sliding spur gears better for a power tower?

Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 4 Years Ago
I found the 703 picture and assembly instructions in the 1935-42 Motors.  It's a big box, 21.75 inches long from front seal to rear seal, and about 20" tall.  It takes 8.5 pints of oil.  Description says "to be used with 3 and 4 speed main transmissions."
 
So I wonder if the 703 is an early design from the1930s, for heavy trucks with big engines that still used 4 speed mains back then?  White badged it, as Jeff's tag shows.  So the mystery continues, why this spur gear transmission?  Was it intended to have a power tower?
Bruce
By Bruce Ohnstad - 4 Years Ago
The smaller transmissions were straight cut spur gears, but by the mid 1930s the bigger transmissions were constant mesh helical, engaged with the dog clutch, for the 3rd, 4th and 5th gears (one of those is direct) The 6031 was constant mesh, and that came out in the late 1930s.

2.6:1 is lower than most of the other auxiliaries, nice low puller.  Maybe that's one reason White kept the 703.   The straight cut gears of the old transmissions can be double clutched lower with the closer stepped ratios if the ground speed is appropriate for the gear. 

Jeff, your White tag looks like there's a 9 on the model.  Can you make out any number there?  Does anyone have the factory options sheet for WB 28 models?  Maybe we'll need Roland Smith's archives.

Bruce
By Slim 3979 - 4 Years Ago
This story once again bolsters my belief that there is more good common sense knowledge about how to do things on this forum  than in all the data books written by all of the truck makers.  This is just good common sense engineering by people who know what they're doing.   Thanks.

Slim
By Slim 3979 - 4 Years Ago
Jeff,

We enjoyed the update on the White.  Are you gonna use that crossover tank?  I always liked the way you could fill up both tanks from one side..  And the gears do look good.
Thanks
Slim
By Slim 3979 - 3 Years Ago

Jeff, we have thoroughly enjoyed the WB going back together.  We have plenty of 8 tracks if you need to borrow some.  Slim has a large collection of 78s he will let you borrow if you are so inclined.

Slim

By Slim 3979 - 3 Years Ago
Thanks or the update pics, Jeff.  I enjoyed those.  I greatly admire people who take on a magnanimous project like that.
Slim
By J Hall - 6 Years Ago
That looks like a fun project. I remember as a kid, we had a similar White out in the trees.

That was about 40 years ago, and that truck wasn't even close to as good shape as yours.
By Greg Flynn - 4 Years Ago
Thanks for sharing your forum with me Jeff. Loved reading your story of the progress on your trucks. Also, thanks for the "cold beverage" before reading recommendation! It's amazing how you tackled the rebuild on those rears. For someone who hasn't done them on a big one before, it's quite an accomplishment! Just out of curiosity, have you figured out the OD ratio on the aux yet?
By Greg Flynn - 4 Years Ago
Thanks again for inviting me aboard Jeff. The world could probably use some experts on Eaton M's, they are a bit of a lost art nowadays. I'm glad you have a .75 in the aux OD, it should make it a bunch better for the road. I developed a redneck method for figuring them in the truck. I helped a lot of guys build workers and projects, and spent a lot of time checking them out in junkyards for guys to use on their toys. I love seeing Whites brought back to life. Amazing what can be accomplished with time and money. The question remains, how do you come up with an ample supply of both at the same time?
By Stretch - 6 Years Ago
You didn't fritter away the long weekend like I was forced to do.:crying:
By Stretch - 6 Years Ago
MGM started in 1956 in Cloverdale, CA.

Redwood logging country with steep grades.

Wonder who their first customers were?

MGM were the founders intials, Miller, Gummer, Meyers.
By Stretch - 6 Years Ago
I'm with John, I don't get why cans on the back axle alone would not work.

The power divider is another differential that splits power to the other 2 axle differentials

If the rear axle spring brakes were applied, i agree that the forward axle would still be able to turn, but if the back wheels
are locked, how is the truck going to move unless the tires drag or are lifted off the ground?
By Stretch - 6 Years Ago
IIRC some trucks had the spring brakes on the forward axle and the air system also engaged the inter axle lock when

the brakes were set. I can see the advantage in that.
By Stretch - 4 Years Ago
Jeff, 
Are those tanks original?
I like the look of the original diamond plate tanks.
Maybe someone built a replacement tank and didn't get the shape quite right.
By Stretch - 2 Years Ago
Eddy, the next truck will be parked on the mezzanine. :D:D
By Stretch - 7 Months Ago
A  little cleaning and freeing up and it's good to go ! 
By Junkmandan - 6 Years Ago
I believe the earliest air shifted 2 speeds were spring loaded to low, possibly before they had the torsion springs in the shifter . Our town highway department wrecked their White WA 22 dump truck parked on a bank in their shale pit, when it jumped out of high range and rolled over. Truck was scrapped . But the warning was pretty standard on the instruction plates .
By Junkmandan - 4 Years Ago
Great idea for a salvage tool..................Thanks for the ideas !
By Junkmandan - 4 Years Ago
MPH-------Welcome !      There were several different shift tower design, but the simplest universal shifter was by  Dana-Spicer. It could be mounted on the left or right side of a bracket by reversing the pins held in place with a draw key.  Then the control lever will notch into the two pins, usually direct and overdrive on the left rail.  I have the remnants from an old White setup that was more complicated.
By Daryl Gushee - 6 Years Ago
I just glanced down through that article that Steve linked, I'm really going to have to take a month and read that.(it's long) That man's designs were great, the fantastic streamline design was his specialty. Looks like he had a hand in a bunch of US vehicle designs, including Chrysler air flow, IH trucks, and Auburn.
By John Gott - 6 Years Ago
Jeff;

I always liked the front end styling on those trucks, however, I think the designers sacrificed serviceability in the name of styling. Your truck along with Mack LH models come to mind, with those bat wing hoods and big sloping fenders, getting to some items is a challenge, I wonder how many fenders got scraped up while owners were just doing regular maintenance. Just last night I was changing the oil on my Diamond T and I have to remove 1 horn to get the oil filter cartridge out of it's canister!.
Congratulations on the trucks, I know it was a long time coming.

John G
By John Gott - 6 Years Ago
Jeff;

I made my own head gasket for my compressor. I see am posting a little late here, but you are on the right track. The unloader needs about 5 to 10 thousands clearance, there is an adjustment. You can use valve grinding compound on the reed valves. You should be able to turn the compressor over by hand and hear it pumping. On your govenor, their is a screen filter on the inlet that should be cleaned and serviced. Your govenor should cut in at 105 pounds and then it sends air to the unloader and then your compressor just vents to atomosphere. Your air tanks will "bleed" down to around 85-90 pounds and then the unloader should close. Also make sure your air cleaner on the compressor is not clogged up, 2 screws hold it on and you wash it out in gas and reoil it.

Also check your quick release valve(s) and relay valve. The Bendix manual says that the diaphrams should be changed yearly, really then just need to be cleaned out.

Can you post a picture of your brake chambers. I might be able to help you out on diaphrams.

John G
By John Gott - 5 Years Ago
Jeff;

I noticed on your post(s) on page 19 that you have a BOOM Box in the shop, it is nice to see that you are keeping your music delivery system vintage.

John G
By John Gott - 4 Years Ago
Jeff;
I believe those boots are unobtanium. Years ago I was able to find boots for the chambers on the steer axle but not the drive axles.

John G
By John Gott - 4 Years Ago
Jeff;
You sure Tony did not have relatives work for NASA. Sometimes a simple fix is all it takes, glad you are able to move forward.

John G
By John Gott - 4 Years Ago
Jeff;
In your last picture you posted I see you still have the vintage music device (Boom box with dual cassette!!). Maybe you should ask Santa Claus for an upgrade to CD or one with an IPOD adapter. I undersatand it took you years to switch from 8 track to your current model. Next year you can work on the flat screen tv for the shop. Totally justifable, as you can display your vast collection of truck pictures...........

John G
By John Gott - 8 Months Ago
Eddy;

I guess you did not get the memo, Jeff is hopelessly corrupted with military trucks, he is just wrenching on the White, to keep everyone happy in the stable, these old trucks are known to get jealous.
By John Gott - 4 Years Ago
After much research I was able to locate the last 2 songs that Jeff played on the 8 track..............


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZ8pOXbS8HY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R7l7nDuj1o

John G
By John Gott - 3 Years Ago
Jeff;
Brings back memories when I did that job(s). Can be tedious putting all those bolts back together. Looks good. Do you have the part number for the boot.  I see that boom box has made an appearance!!

John G
By John Gott - 3 Years Ago
Thanks Jeff, I will check it out.


John G
By John Gott - 3 Years Ago
I see a lot of KBS chassis coater in your future!! I assume the doors did not sustain any damage with the lift. Your Jeep will look like a Tonka toy when parked next to the Federal.
Rock on................

John G
By John Gott - 3 Years Ago
jhancock (9/11/2016)
Boy, if those aren't the lyrics to a new country song or something...?



Funny, I was thinking the same thing. However, I could think of worse predicaments to be in


John G

And that Lucas character, he has to stir the pot.....
By John Gott - 2 Years Ago
Eddy Lucast (11/11/2017)
Yes, I was introduced to the Historical Walking Tour 2 weeks ago. Need to go back and see if the road grader materialized.


Did you do the Guided or self guided tour, I understand the guided tour is very extensive as it involves crawling under Sterling trucks checking out frame numbers. Did you redeem your groupon with the owner

John G

By John Woge - 6 Years Ago
[quote]Jungerfrosch (13/12/2013)
I've been told that unless you are going to run commercially you don't need spring parking brakes on the truck at all. If you're not going to put spring brakes on both rear axles they need to go on the front axle. The inter-axle differential could still allow the truck to move if only on the rear axle.

Why is this ? I don't quite understand how the power divider will let the wheels turn if the spring brakes are applied ?

Our '66 KW only has them on the back axle. I assumed it to be original....but it may of been switched by someone ?

John
By Brocky - 3 Years Ago
I like the period correctness of grille guards.. Brockway, Autocar, Ford, GMC, and others had them from the factory.. I have heard tales that they were strong enough to push the truck ahead of you over the top of hills!!
By Hamish - 6 Years Ago
Jeff, I agree with Park Olson that White used the Mustang name for their flathead engines after the Super Power name-so looks like it could be a replacement engine. The Super Mustangs were the Reo based o.h.v. engines. I have seen a very similar air brake Eaton/Hendrickson rearend in a 1956 International RF195-Eaton 34M seems to ring a bell. Later Eaton tandems were what they called a "through drive" setup where the shaft for the rear diff came out the back of the front diff head.
By Hamish - 6 Years Ago
Enjoyed your video Jeff. It's a great feeling when you start something that hasn't been run for a long time. Sounds like it started on about 2 cylinders and gradually picked up on all 6.
By Hamish - 6 Years Ago
Tony Bullard, is that a Hall Scott 590 in that Autocar C100?
By Hamish - 6 Years Ago
Thanks Tony, beautiful old truck.
By Hamish - 6 Years Ago
Jeff, I guess your WB has a Tru-Stop disc type driveshaft handbrake. Would you really have to fit spring brakes to register this truck for the road? I would have thought that as it never had spring brakes fitted when new then you wouldn't have to update the brakes, as long as what you have works well enough that is.
By Hamish - 6 Years Ago
That is interesting about MGM Stretch, I always thought it was Metro Goldwyn Mayer-but I think that MGM was involved in a different line of business entirely.
By Hamish - 3 Years Ago
Congratulations Jeff on buying the Federal 606. Another fantastic old truck for your collection.
By Hamish - 7 Months Ago
I'm pretty sure Rockwell Standard-the successor to Timken were definitely in the brake business Jeff-Stopmaster wedge brakes and Cammaster S-cams were a Rockwell product, I think.
By chocko - 6 Years Ago
Jim I have heard that grill design on Jeff's White called the Packard style from some old truck enthusiasts in my area.Jeff I am happy to hear that you appreciate the spoke wheels also.Joe D.
By chocko - 6 Years Ago
I have a White 5000 with just the service chambers on it.The truck is in era of 58-61. From the factory White put a Maxi-Can mounted on frame in front of rear axle with rods connected to both chambers. I would think it was an early design for Maxi'S.I also have a 1960 White Coupe Cab air brake equipped with no Maxi'S from factory it has the Tru-Stop Emergency Brake mounted on driveshaft behind auxiliary trans.for obvious reasons.Keep up the good work Jeff. Joe D.
By chocko - 6 Years Ago
Aaron That is good to know.Thanks Joe D.
By chocko - 6 Years Ago
There were some air shifted 2 speed rears that plate would say do not park truck in high range. Anyone know why ? thanks Joe D.
By chocko - 6 Years Ago
Wayne thanks your answer makes sense.Joe D.
By chocko - 6 Years Ago
Tony by motorized I assume you mean electric.Wayne there were some 3 speed rears that were air shifted.I have a NOS 3 speed air shifter I bought for a Diamond T COE with 3 speed rears,I junked truck before using it. Joe D.
By chocko - 4 Years Ago
MPH welcome. I do not know where you are from but I have a White Coupe Cab with a 5X3 trans.and several other trucks with auxiliary trans. If you are near Lake Ariel,Penna. you are welcome to look at how they work. Joe D.
By chocko - 4 Years Ago
If you cannot find a shift tower for your truck you can use a auto floor shift conversion like a Hurst with some modification. Not original but works.Joe D.
By gcpete - 6 Years Ago
I have a 55' 3000 with the 250A. The block also has White Mustang cast on it. There is a flat spot below the oil filter on the drivers side, where the engine number and model should be.
By gcpete - 6 Years Ago
Jeff doesn't look much different than my 250A
By gcpete - 6 Years Ago
Jeff here are some pics of the block itself when I stripped it down, if it helps any. I'm thinking that they all use the same block, with a bore and stroke change. I know that mine is a 4" bore.
By Shifty - 6 Years Ago
I wonder how many fenders got scraped up while owners were just doing regular maintenance. - See more at: http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Topic36847.aspx?PageIndex=3#sthash.FGL49Hpw.dpuf
I wonder how many fenders got scraped up while owners were just doing regular maintenance.

One of my cousins told me about a driver that came into the garage with a White that was having trouble on the hills.
Couldn't get the carburetor adjusted to suit the guy. Ended up riding on the fender to get it right.
I wonder how many fenders got scraped up while owners were just doing regular maintenance. - See more at: http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Topic36847.aspx?PageIndex=3#sthash.FGL49Hpw.dpuf
By Shifty - 6 Years Ago
Good going Jeff.
It's great when one starts.
The gas tank story is familiar.
It was a joke around my house, because I used a gas tank from an old lawn mower to get my great big White 9064 going.
Sounds like maybe the sheet metal from the WB should go on that that truck.
By Shifty - 6 Years Ago
Gas tanks, and air tanks.

The rust in between the tank, and the straps is where I've had trouble before.
Had air leaking, and couldn't hear where it was with engine running.
Wouldn't stay built up long enough to find it with engine off.
I'd say air up your tanks from your shop compressor to see if you have a leak.
One fuel tank was so rusty inside I finally had one end cut off. Sand blasted inside, and welded back together.
Been good ever since, but this new gas makes me wonder what is going to happen next.
Hope this helps.
By Shifty - 4 Years Ago
Jeff
 Doesn't your WB28 have the standard 45 gallon tank under the right running board apron?


Here's a page from some "White Truck"  literature showing approved tanks from 1946.


http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/116a0e99-53fb-44ba-b93d-c3cf.jpg
 
By Shifty - 4 Years Ago
This is what the one on my WB26 looks like.
 Hidden behind the apron I think another similar tank could be adapted, and not be noticeable.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/ccac1d5f-3e14-44c1-8ab2-a493.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/443429e0-3444-4bc5-bf6e-0dd3.jpg
By Shifty - 4 Years Ago
8 Track? I thought everybody still had one.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/42c993d9-5375-44ec-97d1-3a55.jpg
By Shifty - 3 Years Ago
Glad to see you getting more done on the WB28.
 I also have that same grill guard, and have a problem deciding if it looks better either way.
 No question they look good on the bridge formula flat front style , just don't know about covering up that nice grillwork.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0dcb2aa8-311c-4b91-959b-94df.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/2c6e2542-73e0-4dee-b423-cbea.jpg
By Shifty - 3 Years Ago
Jeff
 We have the same problem.
 I also only have one hook, and need to complete the set..
I don't know which is left, or right, but they are 2 different part numbers on them.
         Steve
By Shifty - 3 Years Ago
Jeff
I got an idea these things are scarce, and I think the WC 22 ones fasten to the top of the frame, and are different..
I've been moving the truck when I need to by throwin' a choker over the hook, and towing it with my skidsteer, and then pushing it with a tire in the bucket when it's time to go back in the garage.

Yes those are NOS 10X22 sneekers.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7a45674a-b4f4-4cb8-a12b-ad66.jpg
By Freightrain - 5 Years Ago
The ol Jeeps looks good.  I'm pretty fond of that shade of blue.  If I could get myself to take the plunge I would strip my Harley and paint it a similar color, with a bit more wow factor(House of Color pearl).
By Eprsplit - 6 Years Ago
Jeff,

Kevin Walker at Walker's Air Brakes has all of the gasket's you could want for that compressor.

I had him rebuild the compressor for my 1951 WC22 and it's exactly like yours.

Ask for Kevin directly, if you don't get what you need I'll go down and pick it up for you.

He is only about 15 miles from my house.

Contact:
Walker Air Brakes

921 E Francis St

Ontario, CA 91761

(909) 947-1141

By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Jeff that is an early Bendix, its known as the 7 1/4, they are slow pumpers, that is the unloader on top if I remember, I don't think I have a book on it, get it oiled up and get that cross to moving and I believe it'll work.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Jeff,I'm still running a couple of those kidney shaped governors,they are adjustable,be carefull of the copper finger in the housing it is filled with an expanding gas of some sort, don't horse with it,just the set screw and stop at the other end.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Jeff I have an old huge book on BW if I remember tomorrow I'll look for a part number if it shows the breakdown.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Jeff from what I can see it looks to be Part # 203462, that fits several of the 7 1/4 cubic ft compressors,there may be a tag on it to denote other numbers but they would be something like 2-UE or 2-US, but the same gasket looks to fit all series.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
I think the UE is also listed,I was going to ask what it was made of, if its odd stuff you might think of sending what you have to Olsen's gaskets and see if Sandy could make one.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Whats your question on the brakes Jeff, those are pancake pots are service brake only, you'll have to change over to double cans if you want to put it on the road,unless you have something like the MGM spring brake on the other side of the slack adjusters.
By Aaron - 3 Years Ago
Love it when a plan comes together.
By Aaron - 3 Years Ago
Nice to have around,I've got two rolling gantrys here,works pretty well to hold truck beds or frames to paint.
By Aaron - 3 Years Ago
Who ever did the wiring on Jeffs truck must have done or taught the guy that had Dennis's truck cause every wire in this Ford was like that.
By Aaron - 3 Years Ago
A grade 8 bolt will shear before a grade 5 will, bolts are graded for tension,in tension gr 8 is stronger than a 5,although I've seen hooks break before the bolts sheared.
By Aaron - 8 Months Ago
Jeff better keep one eye behind you, Eddy's next move is to try to hoist some of that snake oil paint upon you.
By Aaron - 4 Years Ago
Tony,did you cage the springs or use shop air to hold them off.
By Aaron - 4 Years Ago
I was wondering what you did as I didn't see the release bolts in them.
By Aaron - 4 Years Ago
Knowing myself I'd grab a hunk of brass and a large hammer, Tony's collar did a much better job nice.
By Aaron - 4 Years Ago
I don't see any bailing wire in there.
By Aaron - 4 Years Ago
The square top is 7000 series, the 8's are bigger and have a contured top.
By Aaron - 4 Years Ago
Its not in the 8000 series bracket,thats a 7000 series box, and most likely will feature the square cut gears.
By Aaron - 5 Years Ago
I was thinking of putting in a pump room in there but didn't, the enclosed area is going to be for a few glass cases of odds and ends,with a kitchen and washer dryer on the end,just kinda a kick back spot,the open space in front of it is my blast cab,welders, torch,drill and what not,its a small dirty room as I call it that way the grindings and odds and ends don't end up all over the rest of the shop, big cutting or grinding I do outside, I don't do big welding jobs like truck beds and such on a big scale so I can contain the crud usually, I want to put one more enclosed bay in for other things but haven't got to that point yet.
By Aaron - 5 Years Ago
Most of that stuff belongs to Brad the only two trucks that are mine are the the two in the far side the red and yellow one,the Helms coaches, Kaddy,one park bus are his along with  the other red Pete, the other park bus belongs to a guy in Mt and the brown Pete is Chans,this pic is a couple years old,that picture changes weekly,Dennis's C 600 is in there now, I've got a 4 car barn here at the house with more stuff and the farm tractors are along side of that in another building,plus my back yard is starting to look like Jean La Chances I gotta get rid of some stuff.
By Aaron - 5 Years Ago

 Not fast enough.
I happened to get in a position where I was think this morning, have fun with that will you,how about a page for members shops,we stepped all over Jeffs page here and a lot of guys have some real bitchen places to work /play in, I like Tony's place, I've been to Hansons shop,Jeff has a new place to play Dennis loves to post pictures and his storage is pretty neat along with Michelles,I know there are more out there.
By Aaron - 5 Years Ago
Gotta use whats handy,I needed a new bar puller and the parts house wanted 130 $ for one,and I needed it now,I welded a  fine thread nut on my stripped out bar and kept going.
Rube would be proud of us.
By Aaron - 5 Years Ago
You just about stole that Jeff.
I've been thinking of creating something along that line to do just the hubs and drums, I don't want to deal with duels at the same tim, dammed inboard drums and hubs seem to have gotten heavier the last couple years.
By Aaron - 4 Years Ago
You should be able to still buy the springs and bolts over the counter,they are not brake pot specific,just generics with a long bolt, just cut to fit.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Doesn't matter commerical or not if a truck is on the hwy it will have emergency spring brakes, that is one of 3 laws that were set up as retrofits.
Last I had seen the MGM cans are still avaliable.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Just go ask any DOT and he'll tell you.

Jeff those 7 1/4's pump pretty slow, you almost don't see the gauge move.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
It would be the same answer I gave.
Anything after 1960, or there abouts, is to have emergency brakes if its on the hwy, and all before that will be retrofitted.
By Aaron - 6 Years Ago
Don't know what and how you asked the question but that answer doesn't seem right.
By Aaron - 5 Years Ago
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/16238576-60c7-4149-9f3c-de53.jpg

Keep talking like that Jeff and it'll look like this.
By Aaron - 5 Years Ago
Not big enough.

Technially 50 X 80, but I used about 18 feet on the end for a toy room.
Heres a shot from the other end, one of these days some of the loft is gonna be an apartmenthttp://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d766bb6d-0979-45bd-8676-eb97.jpg
By clyde318 - 6 Years Ago
Looks like you are making some progress. Can't wait to get down there, so I can see it in the flesh.
By wayne graham - 6 Years Ago
Jeff, I am only going from memory(getting poor) but SB stands for service block I think. So your block was probably replaced to the same engine that was in the truck originally. Lower end failure and cracking were culprits with block replacements. Evrybody ran straight water in the summer and alcohol in the winter till permanent anti freeze came along. Where I worked in the 60's we had a small fleet like yours. Some were ready mixers and some were tractors and one was our rail car puller. Wayne
By wayne graham - 6 Years Ago
Stretch, Navistar was doing the deal with the power divider, don't know if they still are. If you want both axles to hold just put parking chambers on both axles. I really thought it was quite simple. Being in heavy haul we always run them on all axles. Park 150,000 on a grade and try holding it with one axle. don't work to swell. Wayne
By wayne graham - 6 Years Ago
Joe, If I got it right the reasoning was that when the air went down the axle would try to shift to the low side and probably be in nuetral. I am assuming the range shift was spring loaded to the low side and air held it in high. Don't know if they still operate that way or not. Glenn and others will probably know better than I. Was this also the deal on 3 speed eatons. I don't remember. Wayne
By wayne graham - 4 Years Ago
Tony, you are probably right but I'll bet a nasa engineer has the resources to get them produced one way or the other. lol
By wayne graham - 4 Years Ago
Any truck shop scrap pile or dumpster should have plenty of those donors.
By wayne graham - 4 Years Ago
Bob Hanson up in Darien Wisconsin has a truck or two with thos and I think his old car hauler too. He might be able to shed some light.
By wayne graham - 4 Years Ago
Greg, It is magic. lol
By wayne graham - 3 Years Ago
Definitely looking good. Nothing like forward progress.
By wayne graham - 3 Years Ago
Jeff, I got 8 inch casters for mine from Grainger. They are not cheap but they will carry the load with ease. I have no problem handling a complete cummins with mine and the wife can roll it.
By Warren Richardson - 5 Years Ago
Hi Jeff- thanks for posting this fascinating series of tear-down photos.  I suspect that if you clean the parts up and reassemble you will be fine unless you plan to put serious mileage on your restored truck.  Not even sure that would be a problem if you polished the gears and replaced the worst of the bearings. Not sure how to polish gears, but I'd bet someone out there knows a bit about it. Magnetic drain plugs might be helpful but I don't know if they actually attract rust particles.
By Don Hancock - 6 Years Ago
Tony,

Don't you just love Mc Master. we use them all the time in work.





Don
By Don Hancock - 6 Years Ago
With a model T on the plate!
By Jungerfrosch - 6 Years Ago
The suspension looks like a Hendrickson walking beam set up. The Differential lock would be a front-to-rear lock, with it engaged you would have power to both axles, but would still be able to spin side to side on each axle....but two driving wheels beats one.

No idea on the axles themselves, the power divider is set up the same as the one on my '60 International as it does not pass through the first axle, but they look different otherwise. They could be older international or another make. Try to find some casting numbers. International typically have a series of numbers followed by -R1 or -R2. I.E. 161018-R2(casting number from a 70's IH axle)

Tad
By Jungerfrosch - 6 Years Ago
Do you have this style governor? The roundish part in top right of picture. This is on my '48 International KB8.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/06ffd069-259f-4730-8503-87e5.jpg

In any case you should be able to trace the line back from your unloader to find yours. When you aired up the truck, where did you supply air? It is possible there is a one-way valve in the system that would prevent the entire system being pressurized and would hide a leak. If you pull the outlet line off at the compressor or the tank you will be able to feel if it is pumping air at all. You said "Even with the leaks I think the compressor on the truck should be able to keep the air up, it will only pressurize to about 20 or so.".....is the pressure dropping to 20 and then holding? If so I would say it is pumping air, you just have too many leaks, and the compressor can't build air fast enough to replace, or the compressor is worn or has stuck rings so it just can't build higher pressure. The old compressors really don't push much air, if you have a bunch of small leaks that may be your main problem.

Tad
By Jungerfrosch - 6 Years Ago
I've been told that unless you are going to run commercially you don't need spring parking brakes on the truck at all. If you're not going to put spring brakes on both rear axles they need to go on the front axle. The inter-axle differential could still allow the truck to move if only on the rear axle.

The only service I would do in your system is to replace hoses and diaphragms, then they would function like new.....but you are just looking for one test drive.....so I wouldn't do anything if the brakes work. Make sure everything moves(s-cam rotates, shoes are free), check the adjustment and you are fine.

Tad
By Jungerfrosch - 6 Years Ago
Aaron (14/12/2013)
Doesn't matter commerical or not if a truck is on the hwy it will have emergency spring brakes, that is one of 3 laws that were set up as retrofits.
Last I had seen the MGM cans are still avaliable.


Do you have a reference to the actual law....I'm a bit of a doubting Thomas people start quoting laws.

Tad
By Jungerfrosch - 6 Years Ago
Aaron (17/12/2013)
Just go ask any DOT and he'll tell you.


Ask I did:

Here is their answer:
"Dear customer, Not sure who told you that your vehicles would require to be retrofitted. I do not know of any such changes in the law. I also checked with a John Connolly from New York State Department of Transportation (Intermediate Transportation Specialist 1) . He advised these vehicles were originally manufactured as commercial and built in compliance with the FMVSS standard at that time. Current regulations uphold the building standard at the time the vehicle was originally manufactured.These "vintage" vehicles were manufactured prior to CFR 49, 571.121 Standard No. 121: Air brake systems(January 1, 1975) therefore CFR 49, 393.40(b)(2)applies for the Service brake component, CFR 49 393.40(c) applies for the Parking Brake, and CFR 49 393.40(e) applies for the Emergency Brake standard.NO retroactive requirement exists. Go to WWW.FMCSA.DOT.GOV for the referenced regulations."

Tad
By Jungerfrosch - 6 Years Ago
The NY state DMV has an online question/answer system. This is their official, in writing, response that I got. Wherever, or whomever, you got your information about any required retrofit was not correct.

That's why I wanted you to be able to source the official law/regulation, there is a lot of incorrect information floating around out there. A lot of inaccuracies come up when people start asking about if a CDL is required or not.....but that is another can of worms there.

Tad
By Jungerfrosch - 6 Years Ago
Stretch (20/12/2013)
I'm with John, I don't get why cans on the back axle alone would not work.

The power divider is another differential that splits power to the other 2 axle differentials

If the rear axle spring brakes were applied, i agree that the forward axle would still be able to turn, but if the back wheels
are locked, how is the truck going to move unless the tires drag or are lifted off the ground?


Ok, fine...... you're both right......I over(or I suppose under is more like it) thought that one a little bit. If the cans are on the rear axle you will of course still have two wheels that are locked and cannot turn. In some cases there could be a slight advantage on having the cans on the front axle as it would also lock the drive shaft to the rear axle. This would give you slightly better holding on a slippery surface, but probably negligibly so If you were to put the truck in gear with the cans on the rear axle you would have the same effect anyway.

The only other advantage I can think of on a vintage truck is that the front cans would be more hidden so it would be more original looking.

Short of a drive shaft failure the drum brake on the shaft if properly adjusted will serve just fine as well.

Tad
By TonyClemens - 6 Years Ago
My '56 WC22 has Super Power White badges and the 250A engine has Mustang on the side of it. White offered a Packard engine in the smaller 3000 COE's, not sure if they were offered in a conventional.
By TonyClemens - 6 Years Ago
My '56 WC22 has a Clark 5sp OD trans and 2 speed Eaton rear axle. I don't know the gear ratio but I think 50 mph is about all she'll do. Speedo doesn't work so I just have to guesstimate. The 250A engine is governed at 2800 rpm, I don't try to push it too hard. These are probably very tough engines considering how much weight they were expected to move.

Take some pictures of the engines showing the heads, carb and distributor. I'd like to compare it with a 250A. I've been seeing this engine on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-White-Truck-6-cylinder-Flat-Head-White-Mustang-Gasoline-Engine-Vintage-/321191383821?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac87f930d&vxp=mtr

I need an engine for my '51 WC22 Jumbo cab but this probably wouldn't fit a smaller truck. It might fit the WB28.
By TonyClemens - 6 Years Ago
I still have the 5 gallon boat gas tank that was installed on my '56 WC22PLt. I had the driver's side saddle tank boiled out. The shop had to cut a few access holes in the tank to get out all the old crud in it. That old sour varnished gas sure does stink.
By TonyClemens - 6 Years Ago
Eddy, this product is what I used to seal the tank. http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ARK-01
By TonyClemens - 6 Years Ago
Eddy, supposedly this sealer is not affected by alcohol. They used to advertise that it was the only sealer approved for aircraft use but I don't see it on the description anymore. I don't think I'd want to operate an airplane with a gas tank that a sealer had to be used on.

I've had to replace an air tank on my '56 and '59. I would think a new tank would be sealed. Not sure how you would thoroughly clean and seal an old tank, I guess it could be cleaned with acid, rinsed and sealed.
By TonyClemens - 5 Years Ago

Jeff, I like the Jeep, I like the Whites and I really like your shop. I hope to eventually build a 40 x 60 shop.

By TonyClemens - 5 Years Ago

Jeff. don't feel alone about the engine. The sparkplugs were all rusted off on my '51 WC22 Jumbo cab. When I pulled out the dipstick, the lower part that should be in oil was corroded off. I pulled the head and water had been on top of #6 piston. Tried everything to unstick the engine. Pulled the pan and there are cracks in the side of the block and cracks around the main bearing supports. Even with my limited mechanical ability I know the engine is toast. Haven't looked at the trans or rear end lube. This truck's probably going to sit awhile. Make you a good deal on a rare Jumbo cab White.

By TonyClemens - 5 Years Ago
Everything is looking great. What are you using to clean the rust off all the parts?
By milesperhour - 4 Years Ago
I am new to the White semi game just aquired this 1951 wc 22 plt. It has a 5 speed direct. I have a brown lipe I want to put into it. How does the shift tower work? I do not have it.
By milesperhour - 4 Years Ago
I am new to the White semi game just aquired this 1951 wc 22 plt. It has a 5 speed direct. I have a brown lipe I want to put into it. How does the shift tower work? I do not have it.
By kblackav8or - 6 Years Ago
It will be fun following your progress Jeff.
By kblackav8or - 6 Years Ago
She sounds great. Swap out your compressor governor or whack it with a plastic mallet a few times while it is idling and see if it starts pumping. They are cheap and easy to swap. On the cooling system, a trick I have done a couple times is to dump a whole box of "spic and span" in the cooling system with water. Run it for a while, at least an hour or 2, the flush and run a couple times then switch over to coolant. Got that tip from a fairly well known engine guy in West Florida, long time ago.
By kblackav8or - 3 Years Ago
Ouch..  Hope the owner of the dog gets to pay for your injury. 
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 6 Years Ago
The aesthetic design of these trucks was by Count Alexis De Sakhnoffsky White must have been very serious about the "look" of their trucks
http://www.coachbuilt.com/des/d/desakhnoffsky/desakhnoffsky.htm

PS He also did work for Packard!
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 6 Years Ago
Jeff, are you keeping the tandems?
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 6 Years Ago
My dad told of looking through holes in the firewall at night and seeing the red glow of the exhaust manifold at night on the old white he drove in the late 40s.
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 5 Years Ago
Tony, build it 100 X 200, it will still be too small, but tolerable for a while


Larry, pearls are good, but my pixie dust really makes a paint job pop. (.004 metal flake) some colors are holographic.
Pictures don't do justice to this stuff!
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/cb81599e-c986-46c9-8663-b554.jpg
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 5 Years Ago
Eddy I guess I'm one step up on you. It ain't a very big step though! 26'x36' 9' high inside. I got to stick with small trucks. when the Autocar is done, I won't be able to tip the cab inside the shop. :-(  I got this much snow left as of today, 3-13-14http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/876d2004-fa2b-4ca6-9d77-96ad.jpghttp://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/09d0b73a-b9a0-4948-a5bd-c245.jpg
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 5 Years Ago
To be dry and not burned up, my guess is that someone drained the oil for dis-assembly, then changed his mine and never completed the job, maybe found the parts he needed already removed, somewhere else
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 3 Years Ago
They could be cast using an original as a pattern, but the reproductions will be slightly smaller than the original. (approx 2%) The big problem is they wouldn't be strong enough to be useful if they were cast in iron. Cast steel will be better, but I suspect the originals were forged, and that would get expensive.
If you want them just for looks, cast aluminum is easier and looks the same after you paint them. (I'm not volunteering LOL)
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 3 Years Ago
Oh look, a squirrel!!!!!!!! LOL
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 2 Years Ago
Jeff, you aren't doing too bad, at least you are acquiring usable parts of the correct make(s).
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 5 Years Ago
How about a hand full of Bon-Ami, that'll clean 'em right up! NOT! LOL
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 5 Years Ago
Jeff, in your top picture can I see some wear on the spider closest to the spider gear below it! Maybe the owner knew ge ran it dry and didn't bother to open it up and look.
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 4 Years Ago
From what I've seen and heard of Tony on this forum, the man has a whole bunch of tricks up his sleeve. I wouldn't have thought of doing it that way. And congrats to you Jeff for the judicious use of the torch.
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 4 Years Ago
I didn't know there was a different way. LOL
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 4 Years Ago
Greg, I used to have a time and money tree in my back yard, but it died of old age. LOL
By Wolfcreek_Steve - 3 Years Ago
At least in theory, a bolt has the same strength in tension and single shear. Most any grade of steel will have the same strength in tension, compression and shear.
By Park Olson - 6 Years Ago
Eaton axles?

Wasn't the Mustang designation after Super Power?
By Park Olson - 6 Years Ago
Jeff, I won't spout numbers, as I'm unsure of my math, but you will be able to go as fast as you dare, if you can pull the RPM....:w00t:
By Park Olson - 6 Years Ago
Great, Jeff, good starter there,:D,,,It's neat to get an oldie goin' again.

I like the sound of a big 6 gasser.
By Park Olson - 6 Years Ago
Aaron (14/12/2013)
Last I had seen the MGM cans are still avaliable.[/quote]

In the early '90's I was working at a shop in Charlotte that did some prototype work and a small production run of cast alloy brake cans for MGM.
By Park Olson - 5 Years Ago
Looks like underneath trans work on the new thing beside the White, eh,,,,,:ermm:
By Park Olson - 4 Years Ago

    Great idea, well done. The same principle can be used on other bolt/stud repair by splitting an adjustable thread die and working it the "wrong way" off.

By Park Olson - 4 Years Ago
Gears look good, Jeff,,,
You may be thinking that tank is bulged because of the look of the top, but I'm pretty sure at least some were made that way so the top didn't cave in from walking on it. Don't know about the rest of it.
By Park Olson - 4 Years Ago
FWIW, my first edition MOTORS,  1943?, shows a 703 box .Apparently the only model with keyed flanges.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
If you are reading this for the first time, here is where this story begins: http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/36322/Mystery-Truck?Keywords=mystery%20truck#bm36330

I thought I would start a new thread here on the WB28T. This will be a long term project as my work schedule doesn't allow me a lot of time off. Considering it was last registered in 1987, the truck is amazingly well preserved. There is little if any rust other than on the surface. It is also very straight, and seems to have been well taken care of and not abused. The bad parts are that the engine and transmission are locked up. The data plates indicate that this truck is equipped with a White 260A flathead six engine, but I haven't been able to verify if the 260A is still installed or if it was replaced with the larger 280A. The engine looks original, but anything could have happened in the last 65 years. Sometime in the past the frame was lengthened and this truck was converted from single axle to twin screw. A 3 or 4 speed aux was added at the same time. One of the reasons for starting this thread is to help me figure out what components I have.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/a09fa42b-3109-43ab-81a0-022b.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/ec61e019-84bf-4a52-b095-64f7.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
The engine in the WB28 has a neat casting on the left rear of the block which says "White Mustang". The engine in the WC28 parts truck says "White Super Power" in smaller script on the left front of the block behind the breather. Otherwise these engines seem to be externally the same. Where can I find some numbers to identify these engines ?

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/e1ce634d-d7a6-444f-805a-4631.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/8fd20dc2-8efb-4c29-bc57-aff2.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
I have no idea what the rears are, or what type of suspension this is. The front rear has a power divider with a spring loaded control inside the cab. I'm guessing this is a differential lock similar to what a farm tractor has, that locks the two rears together in poor traction situations ? I would appreciate any help identifying these.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/66b9b88b-d229-43b7-a3fa-3b71.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/f6deb89a-f405-4d04-a354-6b93.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/c1831bd3-37f3-4e68-9fc2-65d6.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/ab818031-ca39-406a-ace7-d304.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/0d71950c-c45f-4360-a5bb-c33a.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Fred Dyke emailed me and clued me in on where the engine s/n should be. I found the boss on the drivers side at the top of the block adjacent to the head, towards the front of the engine. The WC has the big motor, the 280A. The WB which has the Mustang engine was only stamped "SB" with no numbers, so it is still a mystery. The engine compartments on both trucks are nearly identical, so I'm pretty sure it is either the 260A or 280A. GCPete, I'll take a look below the oil filter tomorrow and see if there is anything there. Thanks for the help so far.

Here is a shot of the grille for Jim. These old Whites had classic styling and the massive chrome grille is an attention getter.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/3c44d726-014a-4816-aa4c-adaf.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
I'm making some progress on identifying components. The transmission in the WB is a White 506B, a 5 speed with 5th direct. This transmission is original to the truck, but it is locked in gear. I don't know if it is a shifter problem or something internal. I'm not too worried about it right now. The transmission in the WC is a White 556B, with 5th OD. Both the 280A engine and the 556B transmission in the WC were available in the WB, so if they check out ok they will go in the WB. As for the rears, Tad is right about the suspension, it is Hendrickson walking beam. The power divider and rears are Eaton. I need some help identifying which model they are. I don't know if these numbers mean anything, but on the front rear I found 1 number, 37846. On the rear rear I found 2 numbers, 468512, & 34403. The rear rear is also stamped 7.06, so I guess I won't be going anywhere in a hurry. I'm not surprised about the low gearing, Ken told me the truck was used for lowboy work in South Dakota. I still haven't been able to get any numbers off the brownie, the fuel tank is directly over the top where all the numbers are. I haven't been able to get a mirror in to read anything. Hopefully it is OD.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Yes.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 8 Months Ago
With the engine out I could now remove the cab from the frame. I had already unbolted the cab and moved it about five feet aft on the frame, but my gantry crane did not have enough "up" to lift the cab over the installed engine, so the cab was just sitting on the frame up to now. With the cab loose the removal was pretty uneventful. This cab is in really nice shape with absolutely no rust outs and just a few dents on the back wall. Even the underside is pretty clean with just a lot of surface rust.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 8 Months Ago
With the engine and transmisson gone and the cab off it appears there is about a dump truck load of dirt in the frame rails ! That clean up will keep me busy for a while. Also the front crossmember has a nasty crack in it on the passenger side where it rivets to the frame rail. I also built a dolly so I could roll the cab around. Next up beside the frame clean up will be pulling the front hubs and seeing what kind of shape the wheel bearings and brakes are in. I'm not too hopeful about the wheel bearings since when the truck was in South Dakota "it was parked down by the creek when the creek flooded" !

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 8 Months Ago
It's becoming increasingly difficult to keep everyone happy. I had to wrench on the red Federal a little yesterday.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 8 Months Ago
I have the perfect name. How about "Willie ever get done" lol ?
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 8 Months Ago
Too late Aaron, I already have two boxes of it !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 7 Months Ago
I've been dreading pulling the front hubs, This truck was in a flood when it was in South Dakota and was in standing water up to the hubcaps for quite some time, you can still see the water line on the Dayton wheels. I expected the wheel bearings to be full of rust and ruined. The front hubcaps are threaded and were on TIGHT. The White front hubcap has an octagonal shape and is 4 inches in diameter. I had no luck sourcing a 4" 8 sided socket, so I had a friend make me a tool. The tool worked well, but I still had to use a 4 foot cheater pipe on my breaker bar to break the hub caps loose, they were that tight. With the spindle nut removed the hubs came off easily and revealed a nasty liquidy goop inside, which surprisingly seems to have preserved the bearings. However the brake drums are pretty rusty and rough looking, I think they will have to be turned. I still need to clean up the brake shoes and see if the linings can be re-used. I was surprised to find the brakes shoes were made by Timken, I did not realize Timken was in the brake business. Here are a few photos.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - Last Year
With my limited lifting capability the biggest problems I had were clearing the steering column and to some extent, the pedals. The pedals were not a big deal, I just had to raise the front of the cab a little to clear them. The steering column was a different story. I thought if I took all the bolts out that mount the steering box to the frame and disconnect the drag link the steeling column would lay down enough to clear the toe boards. That didn't work very well as the rectangular steering box mount hit the inside of the frame rail and would not allow the column to lay down far enough. I was working by myself so I got up behind the cab, grabbed onto the air hose hanger bolted to the back of the cab, and pulled the rear of the cab down while rolling it backwards. It wasn't pretty but it raised the front of the cab enough to clear the steering column without doing any damage. For now the cab will remain on the frame rails until I can remove the engine.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - Last Year
I think he ran under your CT Electric !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - Last Year
It's contingent on Ken getting his floor poured and getting some heat in his building. I'm still trying to figure put why a guy from Florida would go to a snow bound Connecticut in the middle of the winter. I think Ken should bring his trucks down here !  
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 11 Months Ago
Jeff Lakaszcyck (7/3/2016)

I stripped most everything out of the cab. I just left the door latches, I will probably sell it to a rat rodder and he might need them. The dashboard is actually pretty clean, there are no extra holes in it.

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I did eventually sell this rusted out cab to a rat rodder. A friend sent me these pictures. The guy did a real nice job with the cab, especially the home made dashboard and floors.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 8 Months Ago
More progress. The aprons and running boards have been removed. The aprons are in pretty good shape except for several cracks that will need to be welded up. There are no rusted out areas. One issue that was revealed is that the passenger side cab mount/running board support had two sheared rivets and is very loose with just one rivet holding it. I will probably replace the rivets with bolts.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 8 Months Ago
Next up was the engine and transmission removal. This engine and transmission were full of water and are pretty much junk. I have good replacements. The lifting plates I made up worked well with the transmission installed. The engine was pretty much level side to side and I had plenty of adjustment fore and aft to bring the front or back up or down as I needed. With no cab or anything else in the way the engine removal was easy.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 2 Years Ago
Finally got re-started on the WB28 dis-assembly. We got the fenders off last July and then got distracted by big wreckers. This weekend we found the time to get the hood and radaitor/grille removed. The cab will be next.

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Now it looks no different than any other White with the nose removed !
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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 2 Years Ago
Yes, I seem to be easily distracted ! But I think there is a guy near you with the same problem only much much worse !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 2 Years Ago
The road grader was delivered along with another large historical piece.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 2 Years Ago
Bruce, the Road grader belongs to Ken Ochenkowski. It's an old horse drawn one. If you need pictures of the 5th wheel I can get some. I'm planning to use it on the WB28. If you know anyone who needs a 1957 WC20 rolling chassis I would like to find it a good home. It's in good condition.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - Last Year
There hasn't been much progress on the WB28 but I did just finish building an engine stand for the 280A that will go into it. So now I can roll the engine around and get it cleaned up and painted. It also positions the engine high enough so I can get the oil pan off and clean the sludge out. I built some lifting adapters too. The front one mounts where the thermostat housing bolts to the head. The rear one bolts to the rear of the bellhousing and can be used with or without the transmission installed. It sure beats wrapping chains around manifolds and brackets, now I can level the engine very easily when lifting it.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - Last Year
It's been a few months since we have made a progress report. Despite this oppressive Florida heat we are getting a little work done. We are still in the disassembly stage and reached a major milestone getting the cab removed. With all the rigging in place I only had a few inches of "up" to lift the cab off of the frame. which presented a few challenges. There is a plate behind the cab for the valve that the trailer air hoses connect to, it was welded to the rear cab mount at an angle and looked like hell. There was no way the cab would clear it so I cut it of. I would have cut it off eventually anyway.

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I took the steering wheel off shortly after this photo was taken.
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Not much up in the rigging.
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Here is that ugly plate I was talking about. It's gone now.
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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
On at least two of mine the hooks failed before the bolts did !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Steve, my good one is a left (drivers side). I'll see if I can find a part number on it.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Bruce, three of my four hooks were broken. One of these had broken bolts as well. Unfortunately the broken bolts are on the WB so I will have to drill them out. Or, I could just swap the front crossmember from the WC28.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Life takes some funny turns. There you are, fat, dumb, and happy, lovingly tending to the old girl, when an old acquaintance pops up, one you have admired from afar never thinking they could be yours. Then it happens - you've got a shot, and you take it, and before you know it you have her ! You think you can keep both happy, but it never works out, one is always far more needy and demands all your attention. And the old girl sits, forlornly, waiting for the day she can be the sparkle in your eye again.

Squirrell ???? Where ??

Where can I store these all these Federal parts ?
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Always looking over her shoulder for the new girl .....
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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 2 Years Ago

Normally an update here means I've actually done some work on the WB28, but I'm afraid that is not the case. However, today I did procure some parts I needed, and ended up with more than I bargained for. A friend with a 1957 WC20 decided he needed the convenience of late model parts, and is installing his WC20 cab on a later chassis. When he realized that the original under-apron fuel tank would not fit his new chassis he offered it to me. We agreed on a price, and all I had to do was pick it up 150 miles away in south Florida. This week we were discussing when I was going to come down, and I mentioned I needed a 5th wheel too. He said he had one I could have for free, but there was one catch: I had to take the whole WC20 rolling chassis it was mounted on. It seems he had to move in a few weeks and needed to be rid of it. So, I am now the proud owner of a 1957 WC20 chassis that looks to be in very good condition. The tires are 10 x 20 radials and have just a little weather checking, the front and real axles are complete with air brakes, and the steering box is there as well. The rear end has "White" cast into the pumpkin in large letters. I don't know what I am going to do with this thing but I have it under cover in my barn for the time being.

My new fuel tank. It looks to be in good shape. Complete with all the brackets and hangers.
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Here is are a couple of Shifty's photos showing the fuel tank installed.
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My new classy chassis
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Here is a better picture of the 5th wheel taken before the truck was apart.
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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 2 Years Ago
Bruce, I don't have the engine or transmission. This truck has an unusual recent history. The previous-previous owner of this 1957 WC20 was replacing the original White engine with a Cummins 6BT and mating to the original transmission. The conversion was pretty far along with just some plumbing and wiring left when he lost interest. The previous owner bought the truck with the intention of finishing the conversion. However, he has a very good job managing large construction projects and has to move every year or two, so he decided the truck need more modern and readily available parts. He is now installing the cab and sheet metal on a late model Dodge 4x4 chassis.

The 5th wheel is 36". I can't find a name on it. I'll have to post some photos and see if anyone recognizes it. The mechanism appears to be free and not binding.

Eddy, there is room for the new Federal. Or were you referring to a "future" truck ??
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago

I stripped most everything out of the cab. I just left the door latches, I will probably sell it to a rat rodder and he might need them. The dashboard is actually pretty clean, there are no extra holes in it.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Gotta make room, gotta make room !! We were well on our way to getting the WC28 disassembled and out of the shop, and a good thing too, as we need room for the Federal C2 ! Yesterday I came out of my state of euphoria long enough to remove the cab. I used a 4x4 through the door with eyebolts going through it on both ends. This worked well but my chain fall would never do if my cab had a nice paint job. Today I will strip the chassis. The air shifted 2 speed double reduction rear end will be for sale. It is a Timken but I am not sure of the model or ratios.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Thanks Hamish.

Plenty of room now !

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Plenty of room for the C2 now. I'm going to put the cab out on US 1 with a for sale sign on it. It will make a good rat rodder cab if they channel the bottom 3 inches off and put a new floor in.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
I got a little bit done on the WB28 Sunday. I started removing the sheet metal in preparation for the engine swap. First the bumper, then the fenders. With the big grill the truck has a neat look without fenders. I also found some fine electrical work while removing the turn signal wires. The other side was the same except it also had a blob of solder on it.

No need for those fancy electrical connectors when you can just twist the wires and wrap them with tape.
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It looks kinda cool from this view.
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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Does anyone have one of these tow hooks ? They are part of the front bumper mount. Between my two trucks I only have one good one.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Once again it has been quite a while since the last update. A lot of work has happened, but as usual, it has been two steps forward and one step back, sometimes two or three steps back ! In our last update we had just finished the rear brake cam bushings. Since then all the hubs have been installed, axles installed, and all the fluids serviced in the front and rear differentials, power divider, and brownie.

This is the last hub going on
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Here is where the fun began. Over the next several days I noticed that there were many small fluid leaks in various places on all the components. The rear differential was the worst, with a pretty good leak around the pinion bearing retainer and also around the carrier bolts. Actually all the components appeared to be leaking around the bolts. I started thinking about how I had assembled everything and realized I had not put any sealant on the bolt threads. This was something I had thought about doing but for some reason it didn't happen. So my plan was to drain the fluids, remove each bolt one at a time, apply some Permatex #2 to the threads, and then torque the bolt back in.

Before I could start this, a real almost-disaster struck, I was riding my bicycle and hit a large dog that chased me (a Pitt Bull) and ate some asphalt. I ended up with a pretty painful injury to my left elbow and arm but fortunately nothing was broken. But it would be two weeks before I could get back to working on the truck.

Hitting that dog was like hitting a brick wall. That damn dog didn't even yelp. But I did !
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A week later.
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Anyway, when I was able to work on the truck again I started putting the sealant on the bolts. Everything went well on the power divider and front differential, but on the rear differential one of the carrier to housing bolts stripped out when I torqued it back in. Uhg ! So now I had to pull the rear differential and put a heli-coil in. I torque checked all the bolts in the housing and found 5 that would not hold torque, so I ended up installing 5 heli-coils. I can't explain why this problem didn't turn up the first time I installed the differential (although I recall one bolt that didn't feel quite right) but I guess adding the sealant exposed some flaws in some 60 year old weak threads. While the diff was out I also removed the pinion bearing retainer and rtv'd around the seal for good measure, as this was by far the worst leak. With everything re-assembled and filled with oil the rear diff has not leaked one drop. The power divider still has a couple small seeps but they are not bad and I will live with it. I also resealed a couple of gaskets on the brownie, one was a pto cover that I never had off, and now the brownie is pretty dry as well. Yesterday I adjusted the rear slack adjusters, and installed the driveshafts.
 
Two years ago I was ready to swap engines, and hoping that the rears were ok. They weren't, obviously. So now, all the mechanical work behind the cab is complete. We have good rearends, brakes, and brownie, and can finally move on to the front of the truck.  I can't believe it took this long, but I am sure glad to have these rear ends behind me (pardon the pun). Up next: remove the 280A engine and overdrive transmission from the WC28, and dis-assemble the rest of that truck as well.

Two years of work and you can't even tell I did anything !
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/c056abf6-5d11-403f-a716-b18d.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Jim, it happened 6 weeks ago, so I am pretty much healed up now. I still have a small bump on my elbow.

I almost started a thread called "Injury Report" lol.
I think Rick still has me beat
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
The I spoke to the "mutt owners" the next day. They live in an old trailer and were in the middle of moving, with screaming little kids etc. They were very apologetic and did offer me money, but they looked like they needed the money more than I did so I didn't take it.

We are finally able to start taking apart the WC28 parts truck. Here are a few photos from this week.

I'm trying to decide if I want to use this grille guard on the WB. I didn't like it at first but it is starting to grow on me.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/1a2bfeeb-06b8-428c-8e5e-f7ab.jpg

My hood removal method needs some improvement before I try it on something nice.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/1f2f3753-e90f-40c1-b878-3639.jpg

The radiator and grille are pretty heavy together, even though the grille shell is made from cast aluminum.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/4b50fecb-b76a-44d1-a909-dcf5.jpg

There is nothing like a classic White Super Power grille !
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/ccef80d9-4b87-45d3-a460-8587.jpg

Take off the nose and every old White looks the same.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/bfbc7c62-fd97-4bc4-b26a-3b2b.jpg

You don't get to see this view of the engine very often.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/498cd2cc-8078-46bc-a884-b0d2.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Before I left for Macungie I had the engine ready to come out of the WC28, or so I thought. Yesterday I had all afternoon to get it out, and ended up using most of that time. The plan was to remove the engine and transmission together. While it would have been easier to remove the cab first, I wanted to use this as a dry run for removing the engine from the WB, and that cab is not coming off. The left rear engine mount was directly behind the steering box. I thought if I could move the engine as far to the right as possible I could clear it. But the Tru-Stop parking brake on the back of the transmission prevented much movement, so I decided it had to come off. That brake must weigh at least 100 lbs, so I removed the bolts and pivoted it around and let it fall onto a good sized cardboard box. The box makes a good shock absorber and broke the Tru-Stop's fall, and the brake never hit the floor. However, now the bell housing was hitting the frame and preventing the movement I needed to clear to steering box. There was only one thing to do now, so out came the steering box and column. It came out much easier than I expected, with my puller on the pitman arm it took just a few pops from a hammer and it came loose. Then remove 4 bolts plus 2 under the dash and the whole box and column was out. With the steering box out of the way the engine came out pretty easily. Looking at the photos it is hard the believe this is the GOOD engine, but trust me that it runs much better than it looks.

Tony, your casters worked great ! With two people pushing it took little effort to move the gantry crane even with the weight of the engine and transmission on it.

I had the engine up and down a half dozen times before giving in and removing the steering box.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b788a2c3-a1c9-40e7-84a1-3e52.jpg

Finally clear
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/3e342d47-faa9-4251-a97e-b99f.jpg

The gantry crane moves easily with all the weight on it
. http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/c20b0714-8c3b-4df4-b4f5-72e5.jpg

White 280A six cylinder and Model 556 5 speed OD transmission
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0e7fedc9-b054-416c-9645-ccc8.jpg


The rust mites had a field day with this cab.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/93795f1f-076b-4af0-8bd7-dad0.jpg

The WB28 gets its first look at it's new engine. "Maybe I will run someday after all !".
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e16e6e46-7e12-4c46-b071-64bd.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Paul, besides a good clean up I am going to drop the pan and clean it out, plus put on a new water pump. A few seals and gaskets need changing too. Then I'll paint and detail the engine.

I don't have a good picture of the Tru-Stop disc parking brake but I will try to get some this weekend.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Paul, here are a couple of photos of the Tru-Stop, front and back. It is actually upside down on the floor. No extra cost for the grease and grime.

Front
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b7a23348-310e-46ef-990e-8e75.jpg

Rear
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/df51a98d-9727-4b33-9f29-8b9b.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
It was a bit of a trick to get the outer S cam bushings out, there wasn't much meat left to them. I made a shallow relief cut in them longitudinally with a hack saw and was able to get them out. Tony made me a great tool for installing the new bushings, but unfortunately he forgot to pack it with my brackets when he shipped them ! It looks good in the pictures he sent and I'm sure it would have worked great !

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/67120de8-e131-450e-bc73-8344.jpg

I didn't want Tony to have to send the tool separately, so I looked around the shop to see what I could cobble together. It turns out that a Craftsman 1-1/8" 1/2" drive socket is just .020" smaller in diameter that my 1.5" id bushings and would make a good mandrill. A long 1/2" bolt and nut with some washers, and a couple of old shock absorber washers and I was in business. It worked like a charm.

Here are all the pieces I came up with along with one of the bushings.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e3c28a44-1aee-4118-84b6-0425.jpg

Everything assembled.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b17e6d31-d8ee-4a21-9217-56a2.jpg

Installing the bushings
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/340b5a94-2cb1-401e-8108-78f9.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/c7bdf80f-36f0-4480-83e5-57da.jpg

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
With the bushings installed all that was left was to assemble everything. When Tony machined the brackets he found one bracket was worn into the parent material and was egg shaped. This made it difficult to find the center and he warned me that it may be a little off. Sure enough, I found that one of the camshafts was binding when the brackets were tight, so I had to shim it out a little. After that it was perfect. Here are some pictures of the S cam shafts installed along with the brake cans and new slack adjusters.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/23523701-7202-4b38-b9ec-8941.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f6b65b2f-3d33-4272-9f6d-714d.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/db4a38a6-bc81-4089-91e8-2d98.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0a6b5ea2-2a00-429e-8288-e6d8.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Slim, I'm sad to report that the WB did not come with the optional 78 rpm record player. And those newfangled 8 tracks would be far too luxurious. But thanks for offering !

Just to keep this whole saga in one place, here is the thread about the 8 drive tires I got from Rick Knox:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/90707/Anybody-need-some-tires

We also added this $400 3 ton gantry crane to the shop a few weeks ago. Engine pulling time is getting close !

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/79bdbb79-c73e-4a4d-83d2-7eec.jpg

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Tony Bullard (4/12/2016)
Wow! $400. You can hardly buy a good chain hoist for that. You must be a smooth talker Jeff. I'll have to get you to do the buying for me when I go shopping. Lol. Those are interesting stabilizer locks. Must be some kinda screw jack base.


Tony, I bought it from a friend. He added those screw jack bases because he didn't trust the castors. He suggested I get new castors for it.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Thanks Wayne, I'll take a look at those.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Tony, adjusting the jack screws close to the ground will be the interim plan until I replace the castors. I would like to be able to roll the gantry around with an engine and transmission on it.

The caster height is 9". Maximum clearance on the screw jacks is 3".
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
I finally got all the parts together to re-assemble the brake chambers. The chambers are the old pancake style, Bendix-Westinghouse Type C. Finding the correct diaphragms was no problem, they were on ebay, but springs and pushrods were a challenge. I found some Techtran 155-30 springs that were a pretty good match, but I could not find any pushrods that would work. I needed a pushrod with a 3.5" diameter piston and 1/2-20" stem. I ended up getting some MGM 9064019 pushrods which were for an MGM Type 16 spring can. The stems were correct but the pistons were 3.80". I had a machine shop cut the pistons down to 3.5" and now they fit perfect.  The boots came from NAPA, and fit the housing well but were a little long so I had to cut them. The assembly was pretty easy, I used some long eyebolts to hold everything together while I put the 16 bolts in.
 
Here are all the parts before assembly.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/32920114-ffd3-49c2-9117-c124.jpg

The pushrods and springs.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0f4bec79-8db2-48c9-9b68-d5e3.jpg

The eyebolts holding everything together.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/9f03265b-a5ba-4c06-8b42-2e95.jpg

The completed assembly
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/fec662e8-c900-407d-a03d-f340.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f56abfd1-ddbe-440c-b03a-4cdf.jpg
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/468d5ff6-a554-41c9-9fda-e6c7.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/9d9cbc6e-b868-4556-a83b-e9b9.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Tony, there were no drain holes. Two of the chambers and the internals were pretty corroded, I'm sure they were under water. I thought about drilling drain holes but the way the chambers are installed the air side is the low point, at least on two of them, so I didn't bother.

John, I have the diaphragm p/n at home. You are right, installing and cross torquing 16 bolts times 4 is a little tedious !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
John Gott (2/8/2016)
Jeff;
Do you have the part number for the boot ?
John G

John, the boot p/n is HD10033 from NAPA. They were $4.50 apeice. It may come with a metal plate that is easily removed. The boot would be a perfect fit for a larger stem than my 1/2 inch. I think they are also available from other sources.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Just FYI, this is what I started with.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/bd091ba2-3c17-40e8-add3-ebf4.jpg

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
Jeff Lakaszcyck (12/28/2015)
I have found out a little more information about the auxiliary transmissions White used. My WB28 Maintenance manual, dated 1947, shows the 3 speed White 703, actually a Brown-Lipe 703, as the available aux transmission. I just bought a WC28 Maintenance manual on ebay, dated 1949. It lists the 3 speed Brown-Lipe 8031 as the aux, So, 1947 or 1948 was the last year for the 703 in White trucks.


I now know when Brown-Lipe introduced the 703, it was 1932. It turns out I had the info in my files all along but didn't realize it. Yesterday I was searching for some WAI material and I found this article in my CCJ file.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/681a5551-5560-4ca3-8184-0025.jpg

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago
About time for another update or two. This ended up being one of those two steps forward, one step back deals. I was ready to put the last hub back together, the right front rear, when I realized that the S cam shaft had a lot of slop in it. It turns out that the cam bushings were pretty worn. The inboard one was so bad that it was worn past the bushing material and into the parent material. So I pulled the left front rear hub as well and that S cam was almost as bad. Tony Bullard helped me with part numbers for the outboard bushings, and for the inboard brackets I got some oversize bushings from McMaster Carr. I shipped the brackets and bushings to Tony so he could machine the brackets and install the oversize bushings. They came out pretty nice, Tony does great work. 

Here is one of the well-worn inboard brackets
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/78274bd4-6ce4-408f-ba58-c4d7.jpg

And the oversize bushing.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/4a12f545-9a31-411b-9ade-5198.jpg

Tony's photo of the bushings installed.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/aa9a3fac-be06-4bb7-90ba-0239.jpg

Bracket and S cam installed
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/bb497d21-2850-41fb-9b79-3dac.jpg




By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Greg, welcome to JOT. We have a pretty good group over here, and very knowledgeable. We have some White fans too so you will fit right in. I'm glad you enjoyed reading this. I almost have the WB to the point that I hoped it was at when I got it 2 years ago; that is, nothing wrong with the aux or rears ! I was really nervous about tearing into the rears and power divider because I didn't know anything about them. I feel like an expert on Eaton 28M's now !  

OD ratio in the brownie is 0.75.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago

MPH, that is a nice rig you have. The shifter for the brownie is mounted remotely from the transmission. I do not have a good photo of mine but here are the shift rods that lead to it. You may want to start your own thread in the Mechanical Questions section. I'd love to see more pictures of your White as well.

The shift rods are on the right side of this photo.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d8ae0f77-0584-4ba3-a007-5736.jpg

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
It's been a while since I have posted any progress reports. I pretty much give up on getting anything done on my projects in December until after Christmas. This year on top of the normal Christmas stuff we had a wedding at my place as well (my niece), so it has been a really busy month.

In my last post I had just disassembled the brownie. Overall this transmission was in pretty good shape so I thought I could get away with just changing 2 bearings on the main shaft, but after cleaning everything up I realized the pocket bearing on the nose of the mainshaft was excessively pitted as well. The re-assembly went well except for one major FUBAR on my part. While pressing the rear mainshaft bearing into the rear bearing retainer, the bearing was not straight and I didn't realize it until it was too late. The result was a 1/2" crack in the bearing retainer. After consulting with a few folks I decided that because the bearing retainer was a close tolerance fit in the rear of the transmission case, and it was sandwiched by the rear cover, that it would be ok to use as is. So I stop drilled the crack and installed the bearing retainer. Fortunately everything else went together ok. A little black paint and it looks like a new unit.

The cracked rear bearing retainer
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/dbc1befb-529b-4a21-a294-412c.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/92f3e6d2-c70a-4811-9657-c9b5.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/3513ab63-1ecb-4a71-bbf9-4aad.jpg

I had to stop drill in two places because the crack had a "Y" and there were two terminations.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/2bf8128d-a91c-482d-86a5-a0b0.jpg

New pocket bearing.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/61fa21ec-068d-458c-a026-61c2.jpg

Black Brownie
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e108eccb-0564-468b-8401-cf4b.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I have found out a little more information about the auxiliary transmissions White used. My WB28 Maintenance manual, dated 1947, shows the 3 speed White 703, actually a Brown-Lipe 703, as the available aux transmission. I just bought a WC28 Maintenance manual on ebay, dated 1949. It lists the 3 speed Brown-Lipe 8031 as the aux, So, 1947 or 1948 was the last year for the 703 in White trucks.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Eddy Lucast (12/28/2015)
I distinctly remember reading the word paint in this thread but I don't recall hearing from you!!  Ahem!!!


Eddy, you will be happy to know that I used up the last 6 ounces of black acrylic enamel I had. This paint was at least 10-15 years old. So my next batch will come from you.

By the way, do you have an alarm that goes off in your house whenever someone on JOT mentions "paint" LOL ?

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 3 Years Ago

Just after Christmas I re-installed the Brownie. The installation was pretty straight forward with no surprises.

I rolled the brownie under the truck on a creeper.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b9417e96-8e5e-475f-9ffb-8120.jpg

I picked it up through the frame rails using my engine hoist.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/626f69d0-eabc-40ce-8ee9-2577.jpg

Bolts going in.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/3285a785-2d33-4be8-aebc-2012.jpg

All hooked up.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0d16ac19-eda4-4f19-941c-c11a.jpg


By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
John, that is actually my older boom box. I had to put it back in service. My "newer" one held 10 cd's but it went kaput after a lightning strike. Now it has 10 of my Jackson Browne cd's stuck in it. I'll have to take it apart to get them out. What are these iPods you speak of ? Must be some newfangled technology.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony Bullard (11/17/2015)
Yeah Park, that's interesting. I've never seen one with tapered shafts either. Can you scan and post more info on it?
Thanks
EDIT: Spicer made circular type taper hole companion flanges for it. See attached. The also made rectangular taper hole flanges for it. There not shown; different page.


My WB28 service manual shows the 703 with tapered shafts. It was printed in 1947. My aux is identical in every way to the one in the manual so I am certain it is a 703. New bearings are on their way. Does anyone have part numbers for gaskets ? I would rather buy them than make them if the price is reasonable. I also need the flange nut for the output shaft.

I still have an 8 track player in the closet somewhere.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Shifty (11/17/2015)
8 Track? I thought everybody still had one.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/42c993d9-5375-44ec-97d1-3a55.jpg


John, why do you have a White dash panel hanging in your shop ? Do you have a truck you're not telling us about ?

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b93c7155-a694-493a-9079-b2ee.jpg

OOPS !! I just realized this is Shifty's photo. No wonder there are White parts in it !

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony, I think I found one on eBay last night. It is a little thinner so I may have to add a washer. I should have it in a few days and then I will know for sure if it will work. Do you have any parts books that show the gaskets ? I think if I have the part numbers I could find some.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Didn't all truck transmissions have straight cut gears in the early days ? I'm thinking the helical gears came in gradually in the late 1920's and 30's. If this is the case, then it doesn't seem unusual for an aux designed in the 1930's to have straight cut gears. According to my WB28 manual, this aux is used as more of a "range" selector. Underdrive is used "where additional power and correspondingly increased ability is required", Direct "is used for all ordinary operations of the vehicle", and Overdrive "is used when loads are light or when running empty". Also, "This auxiliary is so constructed that the vehicle may be driven directly through the auxiliary, that is, without using the gearing through the underdrive or overdrive". Splitting the gears is not addressed, although I imagine it is possible between direct and overdrive.  

In both of my 5 speed main transmissions first and second gears are straight cut.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony, all the gear leading edges are rounded. From the manual: "All gears are spur cut with the teeth 'pointed' to prevent chipping and to facilitate shifting". So maybe I can split gears in the main ? Except for under, of course, it is 2.62, quite a drop.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/baf57326-6191-4733-8f71-579e.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Shifty, I had been wondering what that tank was supposed to look like, thanks for the photos., Now I think I want one ! You can see my truck originally had this tank.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/3c676aab-f5e3-4207-8849-ed6a.jpg

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Eddy Lucast (11/13/2015)
When you're ready for paint I have everything you'll need from the chassis to the top of the stacks and from the tail lights to the front bumper at the right price.


Eddy, you will be the first one I talk to. But paint is a long way off at this point.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I dropped the Brownie out yesterday. Several months ago when I was disassembling the power divider I had a heck of a time getting the input and output flange nuts off, so I decided to remove the input and output shaft nuts from the Brownie while it was still mounted in the truck. The input nut came off a little hard but my impact gun handled it ok. However the rear wouldn't budge with the impact so I tried using a 3/4 breaker bar with a long pipe. It still wouldn't budge so I had to put some heat to it. It finally began to move after I stood on the pipe ! It kept turning until it was about even with the end of the shaft, then stopped again. I figure it had cooled down some so I gave it some more heat. This time it moved about 1/8 turn then locked up tight. I bent the pipe on the breaker bar trying to move it more, so I stopped trying because I was afraid I was damaging the threads on the shaft. After I had the Brownie out I cut the nut off with a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel. I got lucky, there is minimal damage on the shaft threads and it should clean up in a minute or two with a thread file.

I don't have a lot of experience with big trucks but I can't get over how massive this Brownie is, especially for a 3 speed. It must weigh at least 300 pounds if not more. I'm still trying to determine the exact model. On the White data plate the model was either never stamped or is illegible. The part number is 320237. It looks exactly like the White 703 series in my WB28T shop manual, but since it is not original to the truck it could be anything. I would really like to know the Brown-Lipe number for any parts I have to order.

I found another tool I need to add to my tool box - a cork screw ! The speedometer drive hole was plugged with a cork from a wine bottle !

All hooked up.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/98e579a2-63ea-4362-ad72-0a2a.jpg

Coming out
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/2ef780bd-cd5d-470b-aa8b-478a.jpg

Sitting on the creeper
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/868a5b98-4850-43c5-a381-32cf.jpg

This is how far the nut turned before it stopped.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/6157c766-562e-4b33-af05-cf6f.jpg

The pipe bent. This is a 3/4 drive ratchet.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/482b9e13-3883-4a2f-acc1-b8f5.jpg

This is the nut after I cut it off. I was afraid the shaft threads would be galled but they are ok.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f6c46998-ca37-4fd5-bbca-955d.jpg

White data plate for the Brownie. No model number.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b361813b-a7a8-4698-8615-a8b3.jpg

I wonder what the part number is for this wine cork ?
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/346af90f-2fac-448a-8c4c-540b.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony, I spun the shafts on the bench and the ratios match the 703 with no letter. So the Spicer (or Brown-Lipe) model is also 703 ? Where does the 703 fit in with the 6000, 7000, and 8000 series ? Is it comparable to the 8031C ?

In my WB28 manual there is also a 703A thru D with different combinations of ratios.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony, there is no sliding clutch. I have seen some info that says the 703 was available in the Studebaker K series trucks, which means it goes back to the 1930's.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
The input and output flanges proved just as stubborn as the flange nuts. I didn't think I had a puller big enough for the job; then I remembered I had a large puller for removing Jeep rear hubs from the tapered axles. It attaches to the wheel studs and you beat the handle with a hammer until the hub breaks free. With some bolts and a few large washers I was in business. The puller couldn't do the job on its own so I had to heat the flanges to get them to break free. I guess stuff that has been together for 50-60 years just doesn't like to come apart. Anyway, the brownie is now disassembled and it looks like I can get away with just 2 new bearings. Two others have some dark spots but still run smooth, and both bearings on the countershaft look perfect. I would like to get a gasket set too if anyone has a part number. I still have some cleanup work to do but overall I am pretty pleased with the condition of everything.

Jeep hub puller re-purposed
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/8a1608df-c601-45a3-838c-2e59.jpg

Front flange removed
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7c2ac427-1874-460e-9189-746b.jpg

Front flange and tool
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/88cd5db6-7512-4e98-87cc-6562.jpg

Lots of very big gears. What looks like rust on the bearing surfaces is just discolored oil.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7dac04c1-7de6-4dd8-8fd0-fbb5.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I was having a hard time driving the inner seals into the hubs so I designed this high tech tool out of a 4x4 and a piece of scrap plywood.  NASA would be proud ! It worked perfect !

Tool disassembled (hammer not pictured):
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/92b11f3f-0d6a-4967-8609-e6c6.jpg

Tool assembled:
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/5a7a743f-73e1-4891-8708-1930.jpg

Finished product:
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/2eb520ff-6831-4544-9fd9-e385.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago

I still have a few lingering brake issues on the rears that I need to figure out, but we are moving ahead anyway. Yesterday I finally removed that ugly, bulging fuel tank so I could get to the aux tranny. This transmission was mostly full of water with a little oil so I have been very worried that it would be as nasty inside as the power divider and front differential. But when I removed the top cover I was very pleasantly surprised to find it looked relatively ok inside. There is a small area on the gears that will need some cleanup, and the output bearing is pretty rough, but otherwise it looks pretty good. I'm going to tear it down and inspect everything but I am hopeful I can get away with a couple bearings, with new seals and gaskets.

Every surface on this tank that you would expect to be flat has a bulge in it.  
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/4d02c4d6-d4fd-4ac5-8378-f154.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0c70dfc5-bdff-4914-83ac-6d91.jpg

First time I have seen the top.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/2eda5dc8-1817-421a-a2b8-cfc6.jpg

Genuine Brownie. But it has a White data plate.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/4010d6c8-a057-44f9-9fda-0a8d.jpg

Not bad inside.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/4991e94e-bfb5-4638-a4e5-e257.jpg

This is the worst spot on the gears.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/1cee8d98-c04b-4fe9-8caa-8403.jpg

New look.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/08611596-a422-4c46-a1db-19a7.jpg

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony, the White number is 32023. It is a 3 speed. It should be a White model 703, but there were 5 different 703's, one with no suffix and then A though D. They all have different combinations of ratios with 3 different underdrives and 2 different overdrives. I think I have recently seen a conversion to Brown-Lipe numbers, but I don't remember where ! When I get it on the bench I can probably spin it and see what I have.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I think that crossover tanks are ok but I just don't like this one. 
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/72921289-91c6-4990-87be-5281.jpg

I'm not sure what I'm going to do but a couple of 50 gallon saddle tanks like on this White would look good. I'm thinking about similar colors for mine as well.  
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/dedb6caf-c26d-4289-a91c-1fa4.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Bruce Ohnstad (11/9/2015)
I don't have fresh recollection of the 8xxx series of Brownies, just the 6xxx.  Does a 3 speed have the square flat top?  I thought that would have been 4 speeds.
Enclosed is a 1959 White accessories pic of saddle tanks.  Later than 1948, of course, this is just to tease.
Bruce

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7c5bca90-674d-4005-b70e-c679.jpg




I like the model with the round tanks. But I'm not sure yet if I want the Brownie covered up with something that isn't easily removable.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Shifty, it looks like it had a tank under the apron originally, but it is long gone. I wouldn't mind having one there again.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony those cans are much different from mine but the pistons and springs look similar. I'll have to take some measurements tomorrow and get back with you.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Here is what I have. I need a source for the boots as well.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f4aa5b9a-b76e-42fd-93d7-881b.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
John, as Wayne so eloquently said, "I'll bet a nasa engineer has the resources to get them produced one way or the other. lol"  Now I just need to find a NASA engineer as I sure as heck aren't one !

Here are some measurements on the pistons and springs.

Piston diameter: 3.5"
Shaft diameter: 1/2"
Shaft length: 5"
Spring uncompressed: 2-7/8"diameter  by 7" length.  
Anyone have anything close or have a source for new parts ?
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago

Tony, the 5/8 rods should not be a problem but I will need the clevises as well. I'm not sure of the pin size to the slack adjusters. I'll have to measure the diaphragms and see if the 5.25 piston will work.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I'm getting pretty close on finding the brake parts but in the mean time I have dodged a major bullet.

You might remember back around Christmas I was having a heck of a time getting the rear hubs off, and the left forward was particularly stubborn. About 6 weeks ago I received my new wheel bearings, and fit check them on all the spindles. However the outer bearing would not install on the left forward spindle. I tried the spindle nut and it would not start either. I got out my caliper and compared this spindle with the others and found the threaded portion was .014" out of round. The rest was ok. Apparently it was damaged during the stubborn hub removal. This was really disheartening as I am finally just about done with these rear ends. The Spindle Doctor was way beyond my budget and I had no idea how to deal with this.

I thought about it for about a month and came up with an idea for a two piece threaded collar that I could clamp around the threads while heating the spindle. I hoped that this could bring it back true. However this tool seemed like it would be very expensive to fabricate. I ran my idea past Tony Bullard. I figured he had the knowledge and experience to know if this would work, or perhaps would have a better idea. Tony was very enthusiastic about my idea and came up with an inexpensive way to fabricate it using a 2-1/2-12 nut and some other hardware easily obtainable from McMaster-Carr. He even offered to fabricate it for a very reasonable fee. I was very relieved when he said "We ain't gonna need no spindle doctor !" The tool came in the mail Monday.

I finally had a chance to use the tool today. A straight edge confirmed that the deformation was on the bottom of the spindle and started at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, just as I suspected. With the collar clamped tight on a good spindle I measured the gaps between the halves at 0.065", so I shimmed each side to 0.055". This gave me an extra .010" on each side to allow for "spring back". With the collar installed tight on the bad spindle I heated from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock until it was just starting to turn red. Using a 1/2" drive ratchet I tightened the collar as much as I could, but there was still a gap at the shims. So I applied more heat getting it redder (but not glowing red), and I was able to completely tighten the collar with no gaps. I let it cool for over an hour. When I removed the collar I had to use a breaker bar to loosen the bolts, then they turned normally (the anti-seize was a great idea). Once the collar was off I was able to start the spindle nut and turn it freely. And the new wheel bearing slips right into position like it should. I have a little bit of thread damage to clean up but this is from the hub removal and not the repair. Tony's tool should work to clean up the threads also. 

So I'm pretty happy tonight and looking forward to getting the brakes done, the hubs and wheels back on, and moving on to the brownie. I can't thank Tony Bullard enough for all his help and advice.

Here is the drawing Tony made of the tool.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e998114a-33fc-417e-b619-9f5e.jpg

Here is the tool. I took these photos after I used it so it has some heat marks on it.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/3dd8c1a9-e90f-4c52-bf8f-169f.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/8d7ceeea-d604-4417-80d7-8c99.jpg

Here it is installed. You can see the gaps between the halves that I shimmed, but the shims aren't installed.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d4754158-4c80-4e58-b39a-5926.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/eb604912-010e-4721-bc7c-eba4.jpg

Bearing and spindle nut installed. Hooray !
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/eb52b5fc-f99c-4628-93c6-9e24.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/811c8be5-1bf0-49c2-869f-9cad.jpg




By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I've been sidetracked from the White for a while, but in the meantime have worked through a new issue that came up, with some more help from Tony Bullard. I decided several months ago that the brake linings on the rear rear needed to be replaced. With some effort Tony helped me find a set of new linings that would fit my old shoes. Labor Day weekend I finally was ready to install my brakes, hubs and brake drums. All went well until I tried to install the first hub/drum assembly. The drum would not fit over the linings, even with the slack adjuster backed off all the way. Then I recalled something Tony had said that I didn't pay much attention to at the time he found the brake linings several months earlier: the linings fit a 16-1/2" drum. My drums were 16" !  Well, they were the only linings we could find, so I would have to make them work. Tony had a plan on how to shave the linings and keep them true, so I shipped the linings back to him, along with one of the brake shoes. I had to ship the parts in two boxes. One of the boxes arrived at Tony's in Vermont in just a few days, but the other one became "lost" (of course it had to be the one with the hard to replace brake shoe). Tracking showed the errant package in Nashua New Hampshire, and then a few days later somewhere in Texas ! Tony and I both paid a visit to our Postmasters expressing our displeasure, and the 2nd package finally arrived exactly one week after the first. Now that Tony had the parts he set to work and had them back to me in just a few days. He shaved about .200"  off of each lining. Things went much smoother on the second installation attempt. I got three hubs on a couple weekends ago before I got sidetracked again.

These new linings sure are a lot thicker than my old ones. I wonder why ......
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/3ee144fb-19ab-4d9b-a57b-02eb.jpg

OH ! Now I see why ....
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/590d1e4c-ffc1-44f0-8bcc-07fd.jpg

Here is the buck Tony made.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/6ecbf380-5a98-4227-86a8-6f95.jpg

Trueing to size
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/7edbf8ec-2b25-4a63-a427-2af3.jpg

Shaving the linings.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/574eab1b-cb75-4920-807a-c0b5.jpg

Much better !!
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/59b841b2-04cb-4914-b7e1-e9f3.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Park Olson (12/29/2014)
Looks like underneath trans work on the new thing beside the White, eh,,,,,:ermm:


Park, that is my father-in-law's project, a Honda van. He started out changing the head gaskets, then decided for what it would cost to get the heads done he could just put another engine in it. So now the engine and transmission are out if it. I'm not sure which will run first, my White or the Honda !

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
It's hard to believe it has been about 6 months since I updated this thread. Up until now there wasn't much to add. Since my last post I've been busier than a one armed wallpaper hanger, with no time to work on the White. It's been one thing after another, with various other vehicles needing brakes, radiators, water pumps, freeze plugs, plus tractor, 4 wheeler, and lawn mower repairs, capped off by having septic problems and having to put in a new grey water drain and septic drain field. But hopefully all that is behind me now and I finally have time to work on the WB28. One thing I did find time to do a few months ago was clean out and flush the front differential housing. The sludge was so thick I had to shovel it out with a trowel. That was a nasty job ! Anyways, yesterday I reached a real milestone by installing the power divider and front differential. It's the first rebuilt component to actually be installed in the truck.

Here is the Power divider and front differential ready to go in.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/964fef4f-0949-4067-96fb-4fab.jpg

I was concerned about damaging the gasket so I made some alignment pins out of bolts.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/a1d6e46c-8818-41e7-a158-9326.jpg

My nice clean housing with gasket and pins installed.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/eda8bffa-947c-47ee-b103-170c.jpg

There was not enough room to drop the unit in from the top, so I put it on a creeper and rolled it in place in front of the housing. 
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d6832047-b6f3-496d-afe6-7443.jpg

I picked it up using my engine hoist and aligned it on the pins.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/36bf6b16-6f64-44f2-af9a-a774.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b43b8d00-dd04-4f3f-83e2-6d72.jpg

All in !
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/ad5554dc-d6ba-4c21-aa23-ddfe.jpg

Next up is the tear down the rear differential. Hopefully it is in much better condition than the front.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I disassembled the rear differential Saturday. While I was hoping for the best but fearing the worst, I was pleasantly surprised to find it in good condition. The bearings, while not perfect, are completely acceptable for a hobby truck. I will have to replace one bearing, while the rollers are fine, it has a chunk missing out of the outer cage. So that and some new seals and it can go back together. It is great to finally have some good news !

Before disassembly
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/0e28994c-e3f6-49fb-b8fc-8e0f.jpg

Some good bearings for a change !
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/92675cd6-14af-4bd5-9102-8005.jpg

Spiders look good.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/92db3216-1052-4eb8-93e9-7027.jpg

Pinion and bearings look good as well, just some minor pitting on the races.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/569ee6c1-bf79-4954-ae4e-5793.jpg

I thought I would be able to re-use all the bearings but this one has a chunk missing !
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d1cfbe26-5d57-4129-985f-f410.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
I finished the rear differential assembly and set up yesterday, so today I installed it. It went pretty smooth except for the lightning storm that came through after I had the differential hanging on the hook. The lightning was striking very close, probably within a 10th of a mile, it was "Flash-BOOM, Flash-BOOM" for about 15 minutes. So I just sat in a chair in the middle of the shop away from anything metal and waited it out. Here's a few pics.

On the stand ready to go.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/bef52871-dc3f-44b2-8416-2307.jpg

Right after the storm.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b40108ea-1c8c-4d05-9c57-444a.jpg

Getting close.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f59ec3fb-cce3-4357-befe-4046.jpg


http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/9948f900-9bbd-41ea-bc25-7347.jpg

Hanging on the alignment pins and a couple bolts.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/da824103-b197-4e8c-9136-8548.jpg

Almost done.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/79cb4ad9-cfe6-41c1-ba55-f3c3.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
More bad news inside my brake chambers, all the internals will need replaced. I was hoping to get away with just diaphrams but I should know better by now !


http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/17cd31a8-89ad-4379-9286-0d2f.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/518637f5-ac9f-4388-b41e-8294.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/88cd3083-9c42-4bf7-b0fc-e64b.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 4 Years Ago
Tony, that is my plan, clean up the cans and replace the all the pistons and springs. Two of the pistons don't look bad but are cracked. I'm all for using good used parts if anyone has them.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
I finally reached a milestone, the power divider and front differential are done. Yesterday I installed the ring gear and adjusted it. Now I can move on to disassembling the front rear axle housing and cleaning it up. Here's a few photos.

Before:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b0df8a9a-70df-4c57-bf90-df68.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b508a409-8b58-4302-a7cc-f8eb.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/664698c8-3205-48ab-8962-058e.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/6d1f6d33-3133-460e-bd78-da4e.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/775ae669-ac3b-4137-ac47-97ea.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/61b37aa8-d255-49f1-b9fe-e96d.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago

Tony, I tried several different methods but found a wire wheel in a drill motor worked best. Very time consuming though.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
John Gott (12/27/2014)
Jeff;

I noticed on your post(s) on page 19 that you have a BOOM Box in the shop, it is nice to see that you are keeping your music delivery system vintage.

John G


LOL John ! Everything in my shop is vintage, including me !  And somewhere I still have an 8 track player in my closet.

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
If you haven't seen it, I have been having fun with rear hubs and wheel bearings:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/67641/Stubborn-Wheel-Bearing-and-Hub-Removal

I wanted to give myself a Christmas present and have all the rear hubs off before Christmas. I started last Sunday, 7 days ago, and by Christmas I only had two hubs off. I finally got the last one off today. If you have read the other thread you know why. Rusted wheel bearings were the culprit. Now that everything is apart, I can begin to assess the work that needs to be done. The brake drums are covered with surface rust but are smooth and not scored, so a light clean up cut may be all they need. The top brake linings look almost new with little wear, but the bottom are quite worn and getting close to the rivets. I need to clean everything up better before deciding if they need replaced. The linings on the right front rear are soaked in oil and grease. I think one set of wheel bearings will be ok, the rest will need replaced, along with all new seals, of course. I will need to clean all the rust out of the front housing, the rear is ok. All the spindles are going to need some clean up, and probably Speedi-Sleeves for the inner seal surface. I'll know more as I get more cleaning done. Here are pics of the spindles.

Right rear, the only one with serviceable bearings.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/cc31a7a2-ecfd-4d64-9161-e49f.jpg

Left rear, bad bearings, not bad otherwise
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/4f5542c8-480f-4d21-bbbf-3c2f.jpg

Right Front. The brakes are covered in grease, too bad there was none on the spindle.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f05899ec-0707-4e73-bc07-32c6.jpg

Left front, the real stubborn one.
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e78f9238-2793-4fb0-bc2a-d563.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Here are a few pics of the hubs coming off (or not !)

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e14de59a-08c6-45b7-9c0c-2222.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/2a80e69e-5ea0-46e7-8e37-7120.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/d640f4ca-0238-4d25-9406-e42f.jpg


http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/cb4b015a-0bcb-4f5e-8d3c-22a1.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
A few more pictures, with good views of the walking beams.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/fe81cd97-8901-4776-8d5e-bfef.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/5909922f-ad4d-4488-9a91-e0d1.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/84dd9f42-9c6f-4357-b236-c087.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f1d1f0a7-7996-4ad7-987d-b051.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Has it really been three months since I updated this thread ?? It sure doesn't seem like it. I haven't had a lot of spare time this summer and fall, but I have been cleaning power divider parts when I can. That effort is just about done, and I have all the new bearings, seals, and gaskets I need to reassemble it. I found a great source for old International parts (my rears came out of an RF190, I think), all the details are in this thread:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/58577/Eaton-28M-Power-Divider?PageIndex=2&Update=1#bm60758

One unfortunate surprise while cleaning parts is that my front cover had 3 cracks around the bolt holes, and the input shaft seal retainer also had a crack around a bolt hole. Both pieces are cast. I had thought about getting them welded, but Ritchie Implement had both in stock and probably cheaper than the repairs would have been. I should have them in a day or two.

Some of you may be wondering why I am going to all this trouble to restore these obsolete rears that aren't even original to my truck, instead just replacing them with something newer. While I was at the Springfield Mo. show this summer I looked at the rears of every tandem truck I saw and did not see anything that looked like mine. I decided then I would make every reasonable effort to keep what I had and preserve a little history. That's what this hobby is all about, isn't it ?


By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
I started re-assembling the power divider shafts this weekend. I finally feel like I am making a little progress. Here is a before and after shot of the inter-axle differential. I would have gotten more done but ran into a couple of seal and bearing issues.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/1242fe2b-421f-4663-abba-df94.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/e0b91b68-4185-4020-ae78-3d23.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
I received my new cover and bearing retainer this week to replace the parts that were cracked. The bearing retainer was only $32 and came with a new seal, a bargain compared top getting the old part welded. The front cover was pricier at $150, but it is a brand new part, and compared to getting the old cast cover welded, plus the running around it would take to make it happen I think it was the better option. I'm waiting for a couple of bearings to complete the power divider assembly.

This week I was able to track down the previous owner of the WB28 when it was in South Dakota and talked with him on the phone. He didn't remember a lot about the truck, he had bought it in 1978 and used it to pull a lowboy. He said it had enough gears to pull anything. He did confirm that the truck was in a flood, he said it ran when he parked it but was stored by a creek that flooded. He knew that the engine was full of water, and had told Ken O the engine was no good when he sold it. So that explains where all the water in all the mechanicals came from. I suspect the water level was so high that all the oil ran out through the seals leaving only water, at least in the power divider. Anyway the p/o is going to look to see if he has any photos of the truck, it would be cool to have some pictures of it at work.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/6e865620-b2ca-4378-bbad-b9cf.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/8c4e9c6e-d607-4c1d-a633-8d51.jpg

New parts
http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/f64cbcfb-c9f6-444b-8c2c-04fb.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
It has been a while since I updated this. It seems, as usual, that life keeps getting in the way of my old truck time. I did manage to finish assembling the power divider a few weeks ago. Next up is assembling the differential housing and differential to the power divider. I had hoped to get that done over the Thanksgiving holiday but as usual, other priorities arose. Here are some pics of the power divider going together.

A before shot:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/518d7e21-0210-4307-9788-e267.jpg

Input, output, and pinion shafts assembled:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b347d3ed-0b4a-4dbd-a430-003f.jpg

Input shaft installed:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/dbd449c8-8d74-446e-b61c-df48.jpg

Front cover ready to go on:

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/4d340d3c-79cb-4845-b327-7c4f.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/2601c8f7-3fea-4edf-97fb-d477.jpg

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/uploads/images/b559d776-b1a4-405f-b530-e0f5.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
I did accomplish one thing this weekend. I went to the Daytona Turkey Run at the Speedway Friday. There are not usually a lot of big trucks and parts there, so I was pleasantly surprised to find this barely used dual tire dolly in the flea market. We bargained a little on the price and I got it for $150. When the front diff is done I will be pulling all the wheels and hubs off the rears, so this thing should come in really handy.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Tony Bullard (12/2/2014)
Its really coming along nicely Jeff. The dolly looks brand new. You got a good deal on that.



Tony, I had priced these tire dollys and even a worn out used one sells for about $400. I was actually looking for a cheap 33" pallet jack as I figured I could make it work, but those are hard to find also. I would have missed this but they also had an unusual large home made engine hoist in pieces and we were trying to figure out what it was. The tire dolly was hiding behind the hoist parts. Even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes ! 
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Warren, so far I don't see any pitting on the gears, I think they have more of a stain if anything. I'll know better when I get everything cleaned up. My thought is I will clean everything up as good as I can and then the gears can polish each other in use .
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Still making slow progress. The front differential is disassembled, and everything is kind of crusty looking. Now the clean up fun begins.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
You can do a lot of things with a steering wheel puller and a few home made attachments.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
I'm kind of curious about the black crusty stuff that is on all the spider gears and thrust washers in both the inter-axle and front differential. It looks like carbon that you would find on the inside of a cylinder head. Is this normal, a by-product of the water mixed with the oil (or lack of oil), or a sign that something bad was about to happen ? I have cleaned a little of it off with a wire brush in the 2nd photo.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Steve, I'll look at that closer after I get it cleaned up. Thanks for the heads up.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
The wear Steve pointed out on the spider ranges from .008 to .020. Not very good, but this truck will only see a few hundred miles a year, if that, so I think it will have to do.

Tony, what do you recommend for polishing ?
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
It has been awhile since the last update but I have been working on the WB when I can. I have been disassembling the front differential and power divider and it has been fighting me tooth and nail. The differential and ring gear came out fairly easy but the input and output shaft yokes have been another story. My 25 year old impact was not budging the nuts, so I bought a new Ingersol Rand with 780 lbs of reverse torque. It still wouldn't move the output yoke nut and I had to apply a fair amount of heat to get it to turn. Then the input shaft yoke did not want to come off, so more heat until my 2 leg puller broke ! I got a new puller, and again with the heat it finally started to move, but I had to keep the heat on it until it was about 1/2 off to keep it moving. Sheesh ! Today I got the input, output, and pinion shafts out and the cases are now bare. While everything looks pretty crummy, there are no broken gears or other parts, but I think most of the bearings have had it due to the water. There are several index marks on the components so I know it has been apart before plus there is a mixture of Timken, Hyatt, and MCR bearings. I still have to disassemble the pinion shaft and the axle differential, then I can start cleaning parts up. The only oil I could find in the whole unit was on the input shaft under the sleeves.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Based on the parts I have seen I have an Eaton 22M or 28M power divider, I am not sure which yet, or how to tell the difference. I Imagine it has something to do with the weight rating of the rears.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
First photo is the pinion shaft and gears, 2nd 2 are the input shaft and inter-axle differential, assembled and disassembled. Notice the oil on the input shaft in the last photo, the only oil I have found in the unit so far.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Steve, it is a real mystery where all the oil went and where the water came from. The engine and transmission were the same way. The rear diff and brownie had a lot of water but at least there was oil too. It is almost as if someone did it on purpose.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Yes, and it does appear to have been in some high water for a while. But the oil should have stayed on top of the water, which it did in the rear diff and the brownie.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
No, that is just a plug. I have been wondering if there should be a vent there. A lot of the oil came out through the axle seals, but it could not all leak out there.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
I got your email Tony, thanks a bunch !! That's just what I need. When I get home from work I can look at it on something bigger than this iPhone !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
I got the front differential and power divider out tonight. It looks ugly, but the rust is more like a paste and I don't see any pitting so far. The "paste" comes off pretty easily. The pinion gear looks relatively clean, from what I can see, so I am hoping the power divider is not too bad. I'll be getting the rear differential out next.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Bruce, I'm sure this truck sat in a lot of water for a while, when underneath you can see a definite line where the surface rust starts on the sheet metal. The water was at least up to the hubs and running boards, and probably higher for the engine to be full of water. It's much more than condensation. No telling how many years the water has been in there, Ken says the truck was high and dry when he picked it up in South Dakota. I'll be tearing everything down and if any of the bearings are questionable I plan to replace them. I'll be getting an education on Eaton rears in the school of hard knocks.  
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Eddy, I sent you an email. RustBlast may be just what I need for several different things.
Here is my back yard power divider stand.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
The rear differential looks much better.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
jhancock (5/19/2014)
I'll second that.  Are you working on two different trucks at the same time?



I'm really only working on one truck. The goal is to get the WB28 tandem running and driving. I was ready to pull the engine and transmission out of the WC28 parts truck when I found all the water in the WB. Now my priority is to assess any damage from the water and fix it before installing the good engine and transmission.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
There's some nice stuff there Aaron. How big is your shop ?
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Nice. I plan to build an air conditioned 12x20 workshop in the corner of mine.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Eddy Lucast (3/13/2014)
You know how to hurt a guy don't you? What do I get to do post? a picture of my driveway with a 2 feet of snow or 6 inches of mud?

Eddy, I seem to recall that you have a little space in a certain truck whisperer's "moveable" shop. Of course, you need a ladder to work on your truck.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Life has kept getting in the way of the WB28 project for the past several months but I think I will finally have some time to devote to it. I re-arranged the garage a little so I could put the WC28 in the back corner so I could begin removing the engine and transmission, and the other parts that I need. To do this I had to push the WB back a few feet with the Kubota. Well, it wouldn't budge, it turns out the right wheel on the front tandem was locked up tight. This was kind of surprising since it rolled ok in November when I put it in the garage. I pulled the axle this evening and found the outer wheel bearing was pretty rusty, in fact I didn't see any lube at all. I squirted the bearing down good, first with WD40 and then PB Blaster and got the wheel where it would turn well enough to move the truck. I figured I was going to have to completely go through the rears anyway, but I'm still hoping it won't need much more than bearings and seals, and brakes. But first things first, I want to get the WB to where it will move under its own power.   
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Tonight I started pulling drain plugs. All water and no lube out of the front rear (about a gallon). About a gallon of water out of the rear rear before lube started flowing. 3 quarts of water out of the brownie before lube started. Just water out of the transmission, no lube. And 3-4 gallons of water out of the engine, no oil at all. At least I know for sure the engine and tranny are toast. But I'm worried about the rears. My original plan was to start pulling the engine out of the WC but I think I'll leave it together until I can see what the tandems need and if they are worth dealing with. I pulled the plug on the WC transmission too, just black stuff came out thank god !
My rears are Eatons, and look like the ones in this ad except my axle tubes are round. Does anyone know what these are, and if parts are still available ?

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Tony, I hope you are right about the water, I'm working on getting the front differential out now so I should know soon. I'm not sure if I should remove the power divider and differential together or separate the power divider first ? Photo attached. I only got one driveshaft out today as I had to make a puller for the universal joint caps. I really need to find a manual on these rears. I'm going to look for a newer Motors manual, mine only goes to '46 and these Eaton rears are not in it.

I figured I could probably source the bearings from the bearing numbers, but I'm afraid I may have a problem with hub seals, axle seals, and pinion seals. That 32M model sounds a little familiar, I think I saw that embossed into one of the housings. I'll have to look next time I am under the truck.

Tony C, fortunately I have a good engine in the WC28, so no worries there. I like your Jumbo cab, but I barely have time for one project right now !

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
I've made some good progress on the WC parts truck. I'm really just using it as a rolling test bed to check out the engine and accessories, and the transmission. The engine starts with just a few turns of the starter, and runs and idles smoothly. The compressor builds air and even with a few various air leaks in the system it will hold over 90 psi while running. 3 of the 4 brakes work, the right rear had a rust hole in the chamber so I disconnected it.

The WC has a Timken-Detroit double reduction 2 speed rear which was not shifting. I suspected it was stuck in high, and that proved to be the case. The rear is air shifted by a lever on the dashboard. After verifying that the valve on the dashboard was working, I removed the actuator on the rear end and disassembled it, and found the piston and shaft were stuck. With a little work it was freed up, and would move in both directions using shop air. Incidentally, on this setup the actuator is not spring loaded in either direction, for whichever range is selected the air pressure holds the mechanism in place. Both ranges in the rear end are working now, and in low range I was able to verify that 5th gear in the transmission is working without leaving my driveway. I'll be looking to sell or trade this rear end in the future.

One problem I haven't mentioned yet is that the truck would blow water out of the radiator after running for 5-10 minutes or so. Neither the WC or WB had radiator caps when they arrived, which apparently made the radiators very inviting rodent hotels. I didn't think about this before starting the WC for the 1st time, but it became obvious pretty quickly that the radiator was full of crap. This weekend I disconnected the radiator hoses, removed the gooseneck and thermostat from the engine, and flushed out both the engine and radiator. The engine seemed pretty clean but the radiator was a mess. The top outlet was completely plugged. I spent probably an hour and a half flushing the radiator from the bottom up until stuff quit coming out of the top tank. I was hoping that this would cure the cooling problems but today it overheated after running for about 20-25 minutes, blowing the water out of the radiator again (I still don't have a cap on it). I think I either have a bad thermostat, bad water pump, or I didn't get all the crud out. I don't think I have a head gasket problem. Anyway, I'm not going to spend too much more time on it before I start taking the engine and transmission out.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
It's been a while since I have updated this thread, probably since it has been a while since I have worked on the Whites. I have done as much as I can to the WC28 parts truck before tearing it down. While this truck runs great, after pulling the thermostat it is still blowing water out of the radiator, which leads me to believe it has a blown head gasket. You always wonder why these old beasts stop being driven, and I think I have found the answer. No big deal, I will replace the head gasket, and the water pump for good measure, when I remove the engine and transmission.

Since I am at a good stopping point on the Whites I decided to tackle a few other projects. My Jeep DJ-3A was last painted in '87 and is starting to show it, plus it has several areas of primer on it I am tired of looking at. I've decided to spruce it up a little for our 1st annual Florida ATCA show in Leesburg in the 1st week of March. I'm re-painting most of the black parts, and will repaint the body where it is needed. Here is what the black parts looked like last weekend. After touching up some of the black this morning I will start the body work today.

After the Jeep is done I am finally going to get power and lights out to my garage, then I will begin work in earnest on the WB28.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
On another note, I found out yesterday that my neighbor Tommy Henderson passed away last Friday. He was a long time Space Shuttle worker at the launch pads before being caught up in the layoffs at the end of the program. Tommy was a good neighbor and always willing to help out. I used Tommy's fork lift for about six months when I was building my garage in 2010. I last saw Tommy when we unload my Whites in November, helping me out as usual. Rest in peace Tommy, you will be missed. That's Tommy on the left, next to Daryl's driver Dan.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
The Jeep is painted and back together, just in time for the ATCA truck show in Leesburg this week. Here's a few pictures.
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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Now to move on to bigger and better things.
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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 5 Years Ago
Tony, I built the shop in 2010 with just the Jeep to put in there. My hope was, "if you build it they will come". So far they have. Still room for a few more trucks though.  
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Thanks Aaron, that's just what I needed. I found the id tags on the compressors. The WC is a 2E 7-1/4 W. The other one in the WB looks about identical but is a 2UE 7-1/4 VW. The head gasket looks like it is not anything special and is just made out of gasket material, so if I can't find one I will try to make one.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Thanks, I'll give Kevin a try.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
A little update, I ordered the gasket material from McMaster and am going with plan B, make my own compressor head gasket. I think the reason the compressor wasn't working was because the unloader valves were hanging open. I should mention that while trying to free up the rocker for the unloader valves I cracked the casting it attaches to, I was going to get a replacement but I'll just use the one off the WB instead (and be more careful, DOH !) The engine in the WB is fast becoming a parts donor anyway, it has had penetrant in the cylinders for 3 weeks now and is still locked up tighter than Jack Benny.

John, while I want to get the compressor on the WC working, I'm not going to put a lot of effort in the WC brakes. I just need them to work well enough for a quick trip down a dirt road and make sure 5th gear in the tranny is good. I'm hoping that getting the compressor working will take care of that. However, I'm sure the WB brakes will need a complete rebuild, so I appreciate the advice. Here is the best picture I have of the brake chambers. I think the front look the same.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
I think I confused the issues a little here between my 2 trucks. The WC28 it the one I am currently working on. This truck is running and will be the engine and transmission donor for the WB28 with the tandem rears. I haven't mentioned this but at 30 psi the WC had a little brake action, so I think that when I get the compressor working properly the brakes will work well enough for a short test drive. Once I am done with the test drive the WC will be ready to come apart.

John Gott had asked what type of brake chambers I had, so I posted the photo of WB rear brake chambers. I am planning to rebuild the brakes on this truck. The discussion on the parking brakes has been interesting. The I think the WB has the "MGM" parking brake that Aaron describes, at least the brackets are there on the frame and there is a parking brake valve on the dashboard (the red valve). The actuators are missing though. The slack adjusters on the forward rear each have a shackle on them for the cables to attach to. The WC parts truck has a True-Stop hand brake (currently frozen up). Since this is attached to the transmission I will be using, I was planning to use the True-Stop in the WB, if for no other reason than I like the look of the handbrake in the cab. I am wondering though, how hard is it to find the "MGM" actuators ? And what does MGM stand for ?

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
The compressor on the WC is back together, and it is making air. Basically all I did was take the head apart and clean everything up, make sure everything was free and adjusted properly, and re-assemble. I probably could have done everything without taking the head off but now I know what the inside of a compressor looks like. The hardest part was making the head gasket. The old one was too torn up to use as a pattern, so I took some careful measurements off the head and layed it out on the gasket material (thanks Tony). I searched all over the house looking for something that was the same diameter as the cylinders to use as a pattern. It turns out the cap to my daughter's hair spray was the perfect size. She hasn't missed it yet.

It was getting dark when I finally started the truck this evening and it very slowly built air. After about 5 minutes it was at 60 and climbing when something blew in the drivers windshield wiper motor, it started running at about warp speed and wouldn't turn off. Of course this side had a wiper arm with no wiper so it didn't do the windshield any favors. I shut the truck down and I'll cap off the wiper line tomorrow. I'm pretty confident the compressor will get to at least 90 and overcome whatever various leaks are present in the system.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Aaron (17/12/2013)

Jeff those 7 1/4's pump pretty slow, you almost don't see the gauge move.


Thanks Aaron, I was wondering what was "normal".
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
"If you build it they will come" - that has been my motto for the last 3 years. It seems to be working.

My original plan was to put the WB cab and sheetmetal on the WC chassis, but now that I have had a good look at the WB I have really fallen in love with it the way it is. So the WB will get the WC engine and overdrive transmission. Both were optional equipment in the WB.

I got home from Daytona in time to play a little. I pressurized the air system with my shop compressor and got it up to 90 or 100 psi. I didn't notice any gross leaks but it bled down to 60 in about 5 minutes. Even with the leaks I think the compressor on the truck should be able to keep the air up, it will only pressurize to about 20 or so. Anything else I should look at besides the governor ? I understand pneumatics but I'm a novice at air brake systems.

On the plus side, it looks like the generator is charging. That's sort of surprising since most of the electrical doesn't work.

That big six really does sound good. It reminds me of an old gas engine fire truck.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Tony, I don't see anything like that governor on my compressor. There is also a round governor in my WB28T maintenance manual that I don't have either. Here are a couple of pictures of my compressor. There is a valve on top that appears to be frozen, at least I cannot move it with moderate pressure, and I'm thinking that is part of the problem. Does anyone recognize this compressor ? The one on the WB is similar but not identical. I'm open to any suggestions anyone has.

Tony, that SR501 is some sort of electrical gizmo, did you mean to post something different ?

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Thanks to Fred Dyke and Tad I found my governor on the firewall (I thought it would be on the compressor). I took the cover off and it seems to be free. I took the air lines off of the compressor and ran the engine and there was nothing, not even an attempt to make air, so as soon as I can I'll be taking the top off the compressor to see what's what. I'm thinking Tony may be right about the reed valves not seating. Thanks for all the help so far.

I'm very pleased with the engine so far, it starts right up on the 2nd turn of the starter and idles right away. I don't see any smoke either.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Tony, is that the same truck Ray Haluch showed at Springfield ?
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
I pulled the head off the air compressor this evening, the reed valves look ok but the unloader valve cross is still frozen. It almost looks like it could be hanging the unloader valves open, although that seems unlikely. In any event I'm going to free everything up and put it back together. I'll need a head gasket for the compressor, anyone know where I can get one ? Aaron says the compressor is a Bendix 7-1/4.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Thanks Aaron. This Bendix compressor from a 1946 Motors Manual looks the same, the gasket I need has the same bolt pattern as the inset illustration.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Bruce, thanks for all the info.

I've made a little bit of progress on both trucks. The spark plugs are out of both engines, but it wasn't as easy as it sounds. Some of the home-brew penetrant and a breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater pipe took care of the stubborn ones. As expected, the 260A in the WB is locked up tight, and I have the penetrant soaking in each cylinder. Nothing to lose here, so we'll see what happens. The good news is that the 280A in the WC is free, and the starter will spin it over. I'm going to change the oil and filter, and free up any sticking valves before trying to start it. The bad news on the WC is that the clutch is frozen, which doesn't really surprise me. Hopefully it will free up while yard driving, if not I will deal with it when the engine comes out.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
My friend Frank Cowan took this Saturday. That's Frank's 1967 Galaxie 500 convertible out in the yard.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Bruce, were the 260A and 280A the "big blocks" ?
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
I've had the long weekend off from work so I have made some good progress. The WB28 has had the acetone/dextron mixture in the cylinders for over a week now and hasn't budged, so I have turned all my attention to getting the WC28 parts truck running and yard driving. I took the fenders off to make the engine easier to work on, I'm surprised they didn't fall off as they mostly consisted of bondo, fiberglass, rust, dirt, and a smattering of steel to hold them together. I cut off the remains of the driver's running board and replaced it with a wooden one, along with a wooden battery shelf. I found a key that fit the ignition switch so I fixed the wiring so the switch would work. Then I turned my attention to the engine. I pulled the top off of the oil filter canister and was surprised to find there was no filter. I actually found the correct oil filters for the Whites on Amazon, under the White part number no less, but they won't be here until next week. So figuring any filter was better than no filter, I took the filter out of the WB, let it drain, and installed it in the WC. I also cleaned the sludge out of the bottom of the canister and made sure the orifice was clear. Drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil. Ken had had some trouble with sticking valves when he had it running, so I pulled the side covers, squirted in some penetrant, and watched all the valves while turning the engine over by hand (the spark plugs were still out). I didn't see anything unusual so I put everything back together.

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
This morning I put the spark plugs back in and then turned my attention to rigging up a temporary fuel system. Ken had removed the saddle tanks from the truck long before I got it. The fuel tank was easy, I clamped a piece of plywood behind the cab and bungied a 5 gallon gas can to it. I didn't trust the mechanical fuel pump on the truck and was going to buy an electric one when I noticed there was already an electric pump clamped to the firewall. I put some fuel and power to it and it pumped great. I wired the pump to the ignition. When I got the truck the throttle linkage was frozen but some penetrant and a little work had gotten it freed up. But yesterday I noticed that sometimes the throttle would jam up. There had been a huge dirt dauber nest inside the carb that I had cleaned out with a screwdriver and vacuum, but now with the throttle jammed I decided to pull the carb off and have a look. There was nothing obviously wrong, but there was a sealed plate with 3 screws that hid the throttle linkage. I took the plate off and with some lube and elbow grease I was able to get the throttle moving freely. Just as I was adding water to the radiator my friend Mark showed up and you can see how the 1st attempt at starting the WC went.

http://youtu.be/Y2gKrjJN7lc

By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
I was really surprised how well the engine ran after it finally cleared out. It idled good and sounded like it was hitting on all cylinders. The frozen clutch broke free as I was backing the WC out of the garage, sooner than I expected but I figured with 400 ft lbs of torque it would break free sometime while yard driving. The air pressure never came up so there were no brakes, so I couldn't do much more than drive around the house. I didn't notice any obvious air leaks, so I suspect the compressor is not working. I'll have to put some air to the system and see what happens. Also, after it warmed up it pumped a bunch of water out of the radiator. It didn't overheat that I could tell. Neither truck had a radiator cap so I probably should have flushed out the cooling system, there may be another mouse nest or something in there, or maybe just a thermostat problem. Apparently squirrels had once taken up residence in the exhaust pipe, I noticed a trail of acorns in the garage behind where the truck was parked !

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Thanks Hamish. I didn't get a chance to look the rears over again today, but they do look like they are from the '50's to me. However I finally found the tag on the brownie, and was surprised to find the White logo on it. It is not original to the truck, but it was available. Unfortunately the model number is not on the tag (or I can't make it out), but the White part number is 32023. I believe this is one of the BL 703 series, but there are 5 different variations so I would like to know which one I have. It should be a 3 speed. I'm guessing the "BL" prefix means that these were actually built by Brown-Lipe ? Did White build their own main transmissions ?

I'm in agreement that the Mustang engine in the WB is a replacement. I'm still curious about which model it is but I can look it over better when it is out of the truck.

I have seen the formula here many times for calculating top speed but I have never written it down. 10.00 x 20 tires, 7.06 rears, 7.88 to 1 od in the main, and either .84 or .75 to 1 od in the aux. Engine is governed at 2800 rpm (although it is probably not wise to run a 65 year old engine at redline), so how fast (fast being a relative term) could I expect this truck to go at say, 24 or 2500 ? Assuming I could afford the pay the gas bill LOL !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Tony, my first thought is that engine is smaller than mine. Here are a couple pictures of the 280A in the WC. Can't see much, I'll have to get some from the other side.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/9a9e10a7-1bfa-4f17-abfc-f5ae.jpg

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By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
Here is a shot of the WB28 engine, it is hard to see how long it is as it goes into the firewall. It is identical in appearance to the WC's 280A.

http://forums.justoldtrucks.com/Uploads/Images/b144d4a0-22eb-4969-ac6f-6d45.jpg
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
John Frances (15/11/2013)
Jeff Lakaszcyck (15/11/2013)
...how fast (fast being a relative term) could I expect this truck to go at say, 24 or 2500 ? Assuming I could afford the pay the gas bill LOL !


Here's a calculator. The internet says 10.00-20 tires are 39.4" in diameter.


Thanks John, it looks like it will run at least 55 or so, on paper at least.
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
That tilt cab sure makes it easy to work on. I see some differences in the head, my water outlet to the radiator is at the front of the head. It's hard to tell from a photo if the blocks are the same. Your engine looks great though !
By Jeff Lakaszcyck - 6 Years Ago
wayne graham (17/11/2013)
Jeff, I am only going from memory(getting poor) but SB stands for service block I think. So your block was probably replaced to the same engine that was in the truck originally. Lower end failure and cracking were culprits with block replacements. Evrybody ran straight water in the summer and alcohol in the winter till permanent anti freeze came along. Where I worked in the 60's we had a small fleet like yours. Some were ready mixers and some were tractors and one was our rail car puller. Wayne


Wayne, I was thinking it might be short block but you may be right about service block. If I don't find any numbers I may never know for sure without pulling the head and measuring the bore. You are probably right that it is a direct replacement for the original 260A.

GCPete, I really like the White Mustang logo on the block. Thanks for the pics.
By Tony Bullard - 6 Years Ago
The governors don't usually stick in the unload position. As Kevin says a little cleanup is easy. Attached is a typical breakdown.

Actually the governor valve is a control vale for the unloading valves in the compressor and the unloading valves can stick in the unload position. I have a parts breakdown of it if you want it.
By Tony Bullard - 6 Years Ago
Jeff Lakaszcyck (03/12/2013)
Tony, I don't see anything like that governor on my compressor. There is also a round governor in my WB28T maintenance manual that I don't have either. Here are a couple of pictures of my compressor. There is a valve on top that appears to be frozen, at least I cannot move it with moderate pressure, and I'm thinking that is part of the problem. Does anyone recognize this compressor ? The one on the WB is similar but not identical. I'm open to any suggestions anyone has.

Tony, that SR501 is some sort of electrical gizmo, did you mean to post something different ?

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Oops on that attachment.

Attached is all I have for a similar BW compressor. Aaron is right, that is the unloading mechanism on top and when the cross head is in the down position it is unloading. It looks like it is in the up position. There is a little piston controlled by the governor valve under its tail
that forces the unloading valves open. The small copper line I believe is the pilot line. I believe there is a reed valve behind the air inlet that might not be seating. That would cause an unload condition. I think the two large hex caps on top are the discharge valve retainers.

By Tony Bullard - 6 Years Ago
Tad that's the same type governor on a 47 Autocar C100 I worked on. It controlled a compressor similar to Jeff's.

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv84/abullard/Autocar/100_0850.jpg

This governor needed adjusting but the unloader worked OK.
By Tony Bullard - 6 Years Ago
Hamish (04/12/2013)
Tony Bullard, is that a Hall Scott 590 in that Autocar C100?


Hamish that's the 935-G1, 294 HP @ 2400. It's a strong old beast with a really nice deep sound.

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv84/abullard/Autocar/100_0819.jpg

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv84/abullard/Autocar/100_0817.jpg
By Tony Bullard - 6 Years Ago
Jeff Lakaszcyck (05/12/2013)
Tony, is that the same truck Ray Haluch showed at Springfield ?


Yeah Jeff that's Ray's. I think he had seven trucks at Springfield which is only a small fraction of his collection. Half of it is here at his place in Chelsea and the rest at his business in Ludlow. I'm lucky enough to work on his mechanical projects. He has the equipment to shuffle them around wherever he wants them.

By Tony Bullard - 6 Years Ago
Or make your own from one of these.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-gaskets/=pox8jp

By Tony Bullard - 3 Years Ago
That's a very unusual tow hook. It puts the bolts under tension. Most all other hooks put the bolts under shear. These universal GMC hooks are the only ones I've seen that can put the bolts under tension.




By Tony Bullard - 3 Years Ago
I think Eddy's on to something. Steve would know but I don't think you'd have to make a new pattern. The foundry could make a sand core mold from Jeff's one good piece. It looks like the left and right are symmetrical. It doesn't look like this would be a hard or expensive job for a gray iron foundry. If they had to make a stronger alloy for cast steel that would be another story. The cast iron tow hook isn't as strong as cast or forged steel. Maybe that is why Jeff has three broken ones.
By Tony Bullard - Last Year
That really came out nice Jeff. I like the way you can either have the transmission on or off and there's a lot of room under the pan so you can work on the bottom. I like the adjustable plates also. Nice job!
By Tony Bullard - 4 Years Ago
Yeah, Jeff it looks like you'll be able to split them with no problem. It's just going to take a little getting used to the difference in engine sound in the two speeds. Like knowing there is a 400 (or something) rpm difference between them.
By Tony Bullard - 4 Years Ago
Bruce Ohnstad (12/28/2015)


I still am wondering why Spicer used straight cut spur gears on the 703?  The 6031 and 6041 had power towers, so what advantage did the 703 have?  It did have more low gear ratio, 2.4:1.

One thing haunts me, in 2012 I bought a 6231 with a side PTO at an auction for $65.  No one else wanted it after the scrappers quit bidding.  The auctioneer also offered me a bigger auxiliary with a flat top for the same price, but I didn't have space or application for the big box and I couldn't haul both in my car.  Now I wonder if it was a 703???  and I'll never find out....


The 5000 and 6000 auxiliarys had helical gears. The 7, 8 and 1200 had spur gears and the power towers had spur gears. I just worked on a 8341C with power tower and from Jeff's description of the 703 the 8000 is the same just a little upgrade. The 5, 6, 7, 8 and 1200 all had fixed gears with sliding clutches where the 703 had one sliding clutch and one sliding gear.

Power Tower Parts


 

By Tony Bullard - 3 Years Ago
They really came out nice Jeff. Was there a drain hole in the mounting end of the chamber to let it breath and stay dry? Looking at them before you started shows they may have been full of water at one time. Could have been even rain water and not just because the axles was in a flood.
By Tony Bullard - 3 Years Ago
Wow! $400. You can hardly buy a good chain hoist for that. You must be a smooth talker Jeff. I'll have to get you to do the buying for me when I go shopping. Lol. Those are interesting stabilizer locks. Must be some kinda screw jack base.
By Tony Bullard - 3 Years Ago
Jeff might be able to get away with using the questionable ones he has by just leaving the jacks up a quarter inch off the floor. If one fails will just set down on the jack.

What is the height of your casters Jeff? And the minimum height if the jacks were all the way up; minimum jack height?

By Tony Bullard - 3 Years Ago
I removed some casters while altering a new piece of industrial equipment that might work for you. Jeff check your email.
By Tony Bullard - 4 Years Ago
Jeff, I don't have anything on the 703's. The Spicer 5, 6, 7 and 8000 series all have helical gears in a fixed location. There is a sliding clutch that connects the  stationary gears to the output shaft. Do your square cut spur  gears slide on the shaft to mesh with the others or is there a sliding clutch? Isn't the sliding gear what they called the "crash box"?
By Tony Bullard - 4 Years Ago
Yeah Park, that's interesting. I've never seen one with tapered shafts either. Can you scan and post more info on it?
Thanks
EDIT: Spicer made circular type taper hole companion flanges for it. See attached. The also made rectangular taper hole flanges for it. There not shown; different page.
By Tony Bullard - 4 Years Ago
[b]Jeff Lakaszcyck (11/18/2015)

 I also need the flange nut for the output shaft.

Jeff, what is the thread size of your slotted hex nut? 1-1/4 12 or 18? 1-1/2 12 or 18 maybe.

By Tony Bullard - 4 Years Ago
I don't have any parts books for the 703 Jeff.

By Tony Bullard - 4 Years Ago
Ford, Chevy and GMC had all straight spur gears in their four speeds right through the forties.

Because of your sliding multiple tooth clutch for direct you may  be able to come out of over into direct a lot easier than catching two spur gear teeth going into over.