Peters story...FowardThis will be a long and convoluted story of my buying and building of a H67 Mack. Since my mind wanders so this trip may take some side roads.
Chapter 1As I am getting ready to retire, I needed something to do and spend the large fortune I made in trucking(lol).
I started looking around for an old truck, on line, in truck papers, word of mouth, etc...I found this one on line.
Dennis M (old macks) had this one at his place.
He is only 2-3hr away, so I called and talked it over with him and made a time to look at it.Road Trip..Here are some more pictures of the truck at his place..
The truck ran, moved, and was pretty much rust free, for a 50 yr old truck. We talked and made a deal. He agreed to go half on getting it delivered to Harpursville.
One of reasons for buying this truck is a H model Mack is the first diesel truck I ever rode in( to the best of my memory). I had ridden in a lot of small gas trucks, and 1 large gas truck. I guess you always remember your first time (lol)...
Kevin All loaded it up and brought it to Harpursville. I had made arrangements to park it at NAPA in Harpursville as I didn't have space to park it.
When he arrived, the truck started, built air, and we attempted to unload it.
NOTE: don't unload, off camber, in the rain,with a flat on the truck, on aluminum ramps!!!
The truck got almost to the bottom , and jumped off the ramp... luckly no damage. I did get it parked.
Now before getting to the work, we will do the paperwork.
I had a bunch of paperwork from dennis, and want to get historic tags in NY. First thing was to get insurance , I called Gulfway, had a nice talk, faxes, etc.. step one done. Next I called the DMV, went online, and tried to get things lined up. Had to download some forms, for dennis to sign. I emailed to him, he signed, and overnighted them back.Next item was to make traceings of the SN.
I think i'm ready to head to DMV. WRONG!!
NOTE: when you download forms make sure you get both sides!!
After filling out another page, I head to DMV, now they don't like the traceing. Seggest that I take a picture instead, or have a Trooper inspect the number. I'm trying to get this done while home for Thanksgiving (07), don't have time for this shxx. Didn't have a digital camera, so I go home and make more tracings. This time when I go back, I get a supervisor involved.She gives me tags and a nontransferable card. I can't sell it untill the numbers are run thru the system. btw.. the regular card came in the mail after 90 days.
Here is the spec, when i got it;
Frame; 1957 Mack H63
Cab; Mack H67, year unknown
Engine; ENDT 675 maxidyne 237hp, from a F model , yr ukn
Trans; RT 11509 eaton , 9sp direct
Rear; eaton 1910, 4.10 ratio
Front axel; rockwell FE9??
but its mine and home.......
The Work Begins
Before starting I was running a lot of plans throught my mind as what to do with the truck. Restoration was sort of out because of all the strange parts that were already changed. This was a truck that someone made out of left over parts,lol.
What history I have is , it was owned and used by a mobil home company in Calf. Reg in cal up to 1996. It was sold to another person in cal, who never titled or used it. When the truck was modifyed or recabed I don't know. The doors didn't have any sign of ever having holes for west coast mirrors. It must have been a toter , a least since the cab was installed, with the overhead mirrors for wide loads.
Back to my plans. I had thought to take off the toter body, and make it into a tractor. Maybe putting on a tag axel. Figuring the cost of removing the body, streaching the frame, installing a tag, 4 more tires and wheels, 5th wheel, etc. This is not driveway work! Even getting used parts , the cost mounts up.
NOTE: I have found that when making estimates on these old trucks, for parts addup every thing you think of and double it , and then mutiply be 2. Time just mutiply by 4 to start. lol
When I was talking to Dennis M, he thought I should leave as a toter, as he had only seen 1or 2 toters at the truck shows, and he went to a lot. I got to thinking as to what I was really going to do with this truck. Go to shows, and ride around. Not going to haul any thing. Looking at Dean's , freighttrain's , Michelle's, and others, travel trailer came to mind. This would be good for going to longer shows (overnight and longer). By not paying for motels, etc, I would be able to go to more shows. Thats the plan, fix it up as a toter, and be able to pull a TT.
Note; next project find and fix a 50's or 60's travel trailer..
Back to the truck. It's time to look the truck over and see what it really needs. First to get legal (safe) , and then go from there..
Tires.. 1 flat, 3 maypops, 2 not so good!
Lights.. not many working
Exhaust.. removed for shipping
Batteries.. not good
Trans.. will not shift to high..
I started with the batteries, have to start and move it to fix the rest of it. I buy 2 new 31s from NAPA( only 50ft away), order a battery disconnect from Flaming River. Now , with ether, i'm able start an move it.
On to the trans.. Some one has hooked the 2 air lines together, by passing the range button. Off to Cook Brs(mack and parts dealer), a new valve and some lines and the range works.
The muffler, stack, and elbow were taken off when transporting. The flex pipe, rotten..
Stack.. not too bad
Elbow .. bad
Muffler .. good stainless
The problem is it was all welded together. My shed is full of valuable pieces I've collected over the years (read junk)..
I found one good long 6" stack. The mack wasn't too loud with the flex just stuck out the side under the cab, so I thought the 6" straight would be good. To use it ,I needed a tight 90, reduced to 4". I thought I'd have to use 2 adapters 6-5 and 5-4, but Dave at Berube's had a elbow for a IH that was everything in one.. 6" tight elbow reduced to 4"..
With new flex and some clamps i'm ready to go... wrong. I forgot the stack mounts.. The mounts were made for 4" pipe with 7 or 8" muffler. With a little bending, some redrilling , and a lota' cussing I got it all up. The hard part was holding it , and starting the nuts.
Note; I'm usually working by myself, so i use clamps, tarp straps , etc...
Tires.. the truck had 11x24.5, all bad or rotten.
The previous spring, I started changing my work truck over to wide base singles.. the tires I took off were LP 24.5. I had left them at my tire place to see if he could sell them and the aluminum rims. The rims were hub pilot, so they wouldn't fit. He had only sold 1 tire and 2 rims. While getting this done winter came.. snow.
The deal with Gary (NAPA) was that I could park there (free) but he didn't plow out back in the winter (inside the fence).
Well, the work is done till spring.
This is winter 07- 08...
I'm working while the Red Dog is snowed in. I have to keep working to pay for the hobie truck. In my travels I spot some wheels at a truck stop in NC, stud mount aluminum..
We make a deal to trade even up, 1 hub pilot for 1stud mount. So for that winter, every time I get a load south, I take a rim to trade. I only take 1 at a time, as I never know when i'll get a "sealed" load while making my way south. It would not good if I had to put 2 o3 rims in the sleeper for a week or two...lol.
I end up with 1 very good and 1 good for the front, 1 good for the rear, and 1 machine finish for rear...going to need a lot of work.
As spring aproaches, I get the truck started, then fix the lights. The truck is going to need a major rewire but I just patched the lights so I could move to get work done. I still had not gotten a state inspection..
Off to the tire shop. First time i've had it on the highway! I've only been testing in the lot at NAPA..
At the tire shop its time for trading.. we install 4 used tires on the drives (take offs from my Pete). On the front I only had 1 tire I would use on the front, so I had to buy 1 new. We end up with the tires on and the aluminum rims (out side only on the rear) . While doing this we did change some studs and nuts. I had sprayed them with blaster, before parking it in dec, and 2 or 3 times before taking it to the shop. We had to change all the outer studs and nuts on the rear to use the aluminum rims.
While at the tire shop, one of the guys is asking when I was going to paint it, etc. He has a friend who paints heavy equipment. He hooks me up, on the phone with him and he comes to look and give me a price. We talk it over and he gives me a good price, but its a"keep my guys busy". Between jobs. Not a rush job..
paint and body
The deal I made with the paint shop, was just for the cab. I wanted the holes fixed, (not rust holes but were ware things were bolted), fix the right fender brace (rusted through), fix the front of the left fender and grill, prime and paint...
I took it in , in early april and had hopes of getting it back , maybe early june or 4th of july for sure...
May... truck still outside
Later in june he gets it in and starts stripping it.
We find lots of things that were going to need more work..$$$$
The grill and the trim on the front bad, grill rusted.. I had hoped it was stainless and could be stripped and polished, no luck..it would need to be rechromed ot replaced..$$$ The trim was mashed and filled with bondo, not good..
The headlight buckets wre ok, but all the stuff that held the lights and did the adjusting were crap... even had deck screws holding some of it...
Meanwhile back at the paint shop...
Things come along good when he works on it, but......
The front of the truck, grill , headlights , and every thing ...he stripped it all off and started over... The LF fender that had a little damage, really had a lot of damage and had been filled with bondo, over 3/4" in places. He got it all out and started reconstruction..
Surprize.. the whole back of the cab is aluminum, I never knew that, thought it was all steel cab.
While he's working on the cab, i'm looking for parts to put it back together.
The headlight buckets appear to be guide brand.. Working with Bob at Cook brothers, we think the buckets are the same as on the Superliner Mack.. We order 2 from mack.. They are the same except they have some extra screw mounts. I don't know what there for but there not in the way, so I have 2 new headlight buckets compleat with new lights and wires..
July comes and goes , still in the paint shop...
Pictures from the paint shop..
More chapter 4
While the truck is still in the paint shop, i'm measuring and still looking for parts..
The grill, couldn't find one that didn't require rechroming, so I had a new ss custom one made that looked more like a H63 grill.I talked to the people at road works, if you send them a drawing they can make almost anything.. CNC laser.. you have to go through a dealer. I buy a lot throught Berubes, in NH. So i call Chrome Dave Brooks at Berubes, and he send the plan in and gets a price, about the same price as the custom stock size grill for a Pete.
For the grill trim I bought stock pete pieces and shorten and recurve them to fit.. not too hard to do, but pricey..
Other things I picked up on the road.. blank pieces of ss to make the sides of the grill, some chrome plastic to make other stuff, universal chrome trim, parking lights for a B model, new bulldog , new Mack logo for top of grill, new mirror arms, chrome mirrors with the mack loco, and piles of other stuff...
As you can tell i like shiny stuff...lol
Finally get the truck back... Aug.. now the work begins...Chapter 5
The work/fun begins
Nine months and I finally get the truck home so I can work on it!
This may not be in order, as summer is almost over and I'm working a lot of things at once trying to get done? b4 winter hits again..
High on the list is fixing the brakes and air lines.. the front brakes were first. I relpaced the quick release valve, and all the lines. This truck had AQ lines that were 50 yrs old, stiff and rotten. when you tried to move one it kinked or broke.. I started at the foot valve, new plastic to the quick release valve, new plastic line from the valve to the inside of the frame, as new premade rubber from the frame to the chambers...
This truck didn't come with maxi brakes they were added later. When this was done they mounted the control button on the floor infront of the seat. Why? Easy to release, use your foot to push it in, not so good to put on. You had to bend over, and reach between your legs to pull it on.My belly and steering wheel got in the way. This was changed to a new valve mounted under the dash. Also changed the air lines to plasitc, from the supply to the valve and all the way back to the rear.
Later I had to change the relay valve in the rear, as it was bleeding all the air back through the cab, and very slow going on..
See a pattern here? I made my mind up, if I touch an air line or valve it gets trashed and new installed.
On to some shiney stuff
In a earlier post I told about the grill I had made. I installed it and the hand made trim. Then I installed the two side fill pieces made from stainless. The orignal headlight covers were made from ribbed aluminum, and were dented, had worn out holes and extra holes..had to go. I took some chrome plastic and traced the old ones, cut it to size and rounded the corners, Demrel tool). Then the hard part, cutting the round headlight holes.. I used an x-acto knife and SLOWLY cut the holes. Slow work but it came out nice. I installed all that with new stainless screws and bolts. Then trimed with chrome plastic trim. By heating and slowly bending you can get some tight turns, with out wrinkes or kinks.
Note; Before installing this stuff, it is best to mock it up with double sided sticky tape before drilling , cutting, etc.. Even on final assembly I use the tape to hold everything while drilling , bolting, and screwing. I keeps every thing lined up...
Had to have a sunvisor.. I had 2 pete 379 visors in the shed, too wide. I thought about triming and spliceing, but I didn't have the mounting brackets for the ones I had. I needed one about 5 or 6 in smaller than the 379.. After looking at every truck and catalog I could find, figgured the 359 pete would be close. I called Dave at Brerbes, called Road Works, trying to get sizes.. finally Road Works , emailed me drawings... real close to what I needed.
I orderd one and when it came, width was almost perfect. The brackets were going to need work.. out comes the die grinder. With some work, cussing , and bloody fingers I got it to fit..
While up on the roof, looking at the plastic reproduction marker lights.. these look cheep, have to go.. I ordered big lights from a superliner mack. They are made by truck-lite. I ordered the LED conversion, and the plastic rings with the visor. Better now..
Also added spot lights and some other stuff
Beside the dog and the mack logo being missing, the nose piece was gone too.. after talking to mike h, he said to just make one as it was just a piece of aluminum, I made one out of the plastic chrome.. easyer to work than metal.. I got carried away with the dog base, and added wings under the dog..lol
Inspection, tool boxes, fenders;
It's now 10 mo after starting on this, your required to get state inspection in 10 days.. just a little late...lol
This is the first trip, not counting 1 to the tire shop, and 1 to the paint shop. I go flying down the highway, wide open..
57-58 mph with bursts of speed to59... this we will have to change.
On to inspection. You have to have a state inspection in NY every year, but it only has to meet the standard for the year of mfg.1957. Yea, got lights, got brakes, you pass...
I also changed the oil and filters, and greased it too.
Now on to more fun stuff.. while it was still in the paint shop, I was looking for new tool boxes. I found 1 at TSC on sale , 18" x 18" x37" top open, to put cross ways behind the cab.. I also wanted 2 side open to put on both sides. I got them at Northern Tool. 2 18" x 18" x 36" side open..
The rear fenders were aluminum, one was bent, and had cracks, the other was ok, but would have needed a lot of polishing.. So I pick up 2 stainless frenders that somone had orderd and not picked up, real good price. It cost almost as much to get new brackets as the fenders cost..lol.
Also note I made a rear window cover from pieces for a pete louverd grill. Added rear work lights too..
The deck plate, we cleaned, wire brush cup on a grinder, and painted with rust encapsulator from eastwood, and sprayed with aluminum paint.
I forgot to add to inspection, I had to add an electric horn. We had removed the air horn on the roof and welded up the holes. Later we added small train horns, hidden on the front side of the tool boxes. I had a hard time getting the air line from the roof down the inside of the winshield post. I left the pull chain control mounted in the overhead by the door.
Random stuff 09
I called this random, because I can't rember what was done in late o8 and early 09..and in what order...
In the earlyer post I commented on the top speed,,57-59. Engine gov speed 1900-1950rpm. It should be 2100+, but that would only be 62. I need to get it up to at least 65 cruise..
I looked at the options,
Bigger tires.. 11 x 24.5 would get it up to 67 if I could turn the engine to 2100.
Change rear ratio; I would need to get 3.70 at least.. hard to find in a 1910 eaton, 40 yr old rear. I could change the whole rear to something newer.
Change the trans to something with overdrive.
While keeping all options open, I started looking, asking around..
I found a RTO 14613, for $1000, take out from a wrecked mack, so it had the mounts on the bell housing that macks need.
I started to figure what it would cost to change over, parts, labor,etc; while the trans was out, i'd at least change the clutch. I might have to any way due to different imput shafts, etc.
When I went back to tell him i'd take it, it was already in another truck. There is a lesson here...
Money talks and...(you know the rest)
My truck now has it's own cedit card.. I use it for the hobby. I can buy things when I see them on sale. I also get statements so I can see if i'm going over budget!
Time for plan B.
After talking around, including here, it was suggested to put a RTO 13sp back on my 9 sp or turn the 9sp around to an overdrive..
Eaton said you couldn't turn the 9sp around, it needed all new gears, Glenn said I could but would not be happy the way the splits between the gears would work out...
The next plan was just put an OD13sp back on it. I had a RT 11509 and they didn't make a 11513 version.. Glenn (who was the biggest help in all this) said a RTO 12513 back would work. So I started looking for that.
Most of the places didn't have any thing that old, and if they did they wanted as much for the back as a whole trans cost. After a long search ,I found a whole take out(RTO 12513) for $750..Better that the $1200+ I was quoted by some for a back half!!
I had it sent straight to Cook Brothers. We decided to just change the back, as it was a lot less work, and the front of mine was good. I took the truck down and work was started. The rest was told to me by Joe ( my "mech a nick"), when he went to take the driveshaft out, it was frozen solid on the spline. He had beat the shxx out of it , just to get it out. It still didn't free up. We were going to have to shorten it anyway, so a whole new one was going to be made now.
When he took the back off, the pins from the syncros were in the bottom. I don't know how it shifted?
The new back went on easy, he only had to change the pocket bearings. He also changed all the air lines, and installed a new valve.
Back to the driveshaft. Joe gave the size, center to center as it sat, to the driveline shop. They made made it that size with the spline closed, not going to work. They made another, it worked..
Road test time.. I think Joe has more miles in the truck that me!!! Every thing good, keeps up with traffic...
While he's playing, he took time out for some photo opps..
photo shop and frame by swishy
the crew at cook brothers, joe is 2nd from the left, with the coffee
thats a new rawhide, on the right
Brakes and seals
While laying under the truck , I notice grease running out of the right rear wheel.. off to the shop we go. The truck also had a bad pull to the left on hard braking. I thought this was due to the grease on the shoes. We replaced both seals and cleaned every thing up. The left one had started to leak, but it had not run out loke the right.
Road test.. still pulls left. We adjust all the brakes, still pulls. We pull the front drums (outboard drums), can't see anything wrong. Thought it might have been rust, or hard linings, sand the drums and the linings. Road test... still pulls left. We back off the left brake to make sure thats the one. Yup, now it pulls right. Try to tighten the left a little, thought by not having as tight as the right , that we could get it to pull even. NO LUCK.
Before we pull the front wheels again, we hook up their brake test guages. box with guage to test ,to make sure both brakes are getting the same pressure at the same time. OK on the air. Pull both fronts. I can't see any differnce. We put new shoes on both sides to make sure there the same. Sand the drums again. I would have put new drums on but we couldn't find any.
Stops good now, for a short WB COE. What a PITA!
New (used) Bumper
The bumper that was on the Mack was twisted and repaired. No chrome left to polish.
I just happend to have a stainless peterbilt bumper, that I took off my work truck. It was pitted bad. Almost like it was sand blasted.. it might have been from the states that don't use salt... they use gravel and call it sand. lol
I tried to use polish, not much better. tried rouge, a little bit better. Then I tried wet sanding, 1000 and 1200. Better but not a high shine.
I know.. thats backwards, of the way to doit.. sand first, then rouge , then polish, lol
There was a local guy who did wheels. I had him pick it up and give it a try. He droped it off, a few weeks later, when I wasn't home.. better but still not real good, but he never called or asked for money...
Didn't look that bad unless the sun was shining right on it so I was going to put it on anyway. I had to drill some new holes, and I put some dummy bolts in a few of the old holes. Drilling stainless is a biXXX with a hand drill. PB Blaster made the best 'cutting' oil.
I can't remeber if this is from the trans trip, or the brakes..
I live 15 miles east of binghamton, rt 7 and I88.
I leave the shop , trucking east , doing good, :), playing with my toy... then it starts running ruff, I look at the guages, all ok...
It picks back up, just some dirt in the fuel, i think.
It does it again, but dies and picks up.. I'm out'a fuel!!!! Guages reads 1/2- 3/4.. head to the off ramp.. I make it to the top of the ramp, couldn't coast any farther..
I look in the tank, same as the guage, over half full????
Then I look in the other tank, bone dry. I crawl under, the cross over is off. I turn it on, and CUSS JOE a lot!!!!
It crosses over real slow. This is going to take some time.
While waiting ,one of the guys from the tire shop stops.
We talk, I tell him i've get things under control,WRONG, he leaves.
I realise ,I don't have any tools in this truck, all at home.. not even a cell phone.
I'm trying to figgure how prime the filters.. if I could get the filters off , how would I get the fuel to fill them? I don't even have a cresent wrench.
Pump dosn't have a primer on it..
By this time the fuel has crossed over enough to try to start.
Ether.. This truck dosen't like ether, if you give it a little shot it goes one little spirt, and dies.. try to give it more and you have too much.. long pipe from the filter to turbo..
I have to give it a little shot, get in the cab , crank the engine, then while it's turning over, lean out and spray more past the intake ..not into it.....
I do this a few times, maybe 10 sec run each time, its starting to almost run.
Then the can runs dry... @#$%%@#
I dig around the truck and finally find a rusty can , with just a little in it... It works!!!! Then it takes 5 min to run smooth, get all the air out...
Head to the place where I park my trailer (work), I put 50 gal in it, but this is when fuel was$4.95 gal in NY.. $250.. Finally get home..
Say tuned folks...for the next installment of RED DOG
This is how it was when I bought it. It's made of heavy steel. The rear plate is 3/4 in. The bottom is braced with 6 in channel, the top mount is 1/2 in plate inserted between the frame and the rear spring hangers. Hydraulic opperated, 3 in ID cyl powered by a 12 volt pump. Pump is like a snow plow pump..
The reciever was 3 in ID. As I am only going to pull small trailers, I needed to reduce this to a standard 2 in size reciever. I bought a piece of 3 in OD sq tubing then pressed a 2 in reciever( 2 1/2 OD) into it.. welded back and front.. also plug welded in 3 places on the side. We drilled holes for the pins, 1in dia tractor fast pins . 2 1in pins ought to hold it..lol
From here, I had a 3 way ball. I was told that if I pulled a travel trailer with that, the truck would beat it to death shortly.. So I bought a Shocker air ride hitch..
Thats all for this section..
Insulation and noise control
When they were doing the body work, the paint shop took the head liner out. The particlboard just fell apart... The rest of the inside is all aluminun panels. 1000 screws!!!!
I wanted to insulate the truck, and wanted to quiet it down. It was very noisy sitting on top of the engine..
After doing a lot of reading, mostly on the web, I decided to use Hush mat for quieting, and a aluminun/poly insulation for heat..
I found the cheepest place to get the mat was from Summit raceing. It's listed as their brand, but when you get it , it is Hushmat Ultra..
I got the foil/poly insulation from lobuckrods, or something like that. (its listed in john c's parts and services links)
I stared with the underside of the cab. I used one layer of the Hushmat, and one or two layers of the insulation. The Hushmat has it's own glue.. just peal and stick.
Note ;cut and check fit b4 pealing.It sticks real good!
I did almost 100% under the cab. The insulation I used spray glue like 3M 777. I used a house brand that listed as Heavy Duty & high temp and was $2 a can less than 3M.
Over the engine was were I doubled it up, to keep the noise/heat down.
No pictures of under side..............
On to the inside, 100% Hush mat then two layers of insulation.In the roof 3 and 4 layers.
Same for the doors..
The inside panels also got an extra layer of Hushmat, so the side walls ended up with;
out side sheet metal
2 layers of insulation
more Hushmat stuck to
inside sheet metal..
also while the panels were out, I painted them.
Back side of panels
Did the doors too
more later... when I remember what else I forgot....lol
Extra- things I missed
In the insulation section, I forgot, I insulated and husmated the tool box under the sleeper. All 6 sides.. The floor of th tool box , I covered with ribbed rubber (plastic) floor mat that I got from home depot. This was glued with the 777.
All the window, and windshield trim , I pulled and primed...
Way back at the top, I changed to a L/N 150A alternator and new belts...
Also added a Cobra 29 radio, with a old time 102" steel whip antenna, mounted behind the cab.
go get a snow cone.... lol
Preview of coming attractions....
B4 the snow hit, I pulled the dash loose, and took off the steering wheel. I thought pulling the wheel would be hard, after hearing reports of others. I took the nut off and pullled on 2 sides, tapping lightly under the spokes, nothing. then I tapped under the hub, there was a little lip of steel, it poped right off...
The reason for this is I still have to paint the dash, and install new guages.... also rewire and new air hoses on the inside.
I bought a new electric tach, and speedometer. A new pyro, and water temp guage. I also have a new steering wheel to install when done. Chrome spokes and hub. Black foam rim.
I have to take out the old heater, leaks, and I bought a under dash heater and air conditioner. That was part of the reason for all the insulation in the cab. I allready installed the condenser B4 putting on the grill. I have the compresser and 2 kinds of mounts. one universal, and one off a F model Mack for the 237 engine.
I bought a universal exhaust brake for 4" pipe. I got a good deal on it as it was damaged. The only thing wrong was a broken brass fitting, were the control mounted to the unit . Easy $1.50 fix.
Also bought a new air ride seat... on sale. That will be one of the last things to install.
I have a cruse control to install. A spare from the work truck.
Have other things to do, i'll post more when the snow leaves...
Don't forget my gen build thread...
I recovered the passenger seat
Genuine mex saddle blanket. The back/bottom of the seat is plywood, so i just stretched it and stapled it..
Made backs of black plastic/foam board, screwed to hold it together..
Winter still here in NY, after a week of 50-60 deg, we had a little SNOW last night. 28 deg today , 16deg called for tonight.
Here are some things I did this winter, to keep my sanity, or not!
I made a fusee/flare holder from 3" pvc pipe. It holds 4 20min flares.
I also made some under size load signs... Everyone has oversize load signs, how many have undersize signs, for pulling small trailers... lol
Spring can't come soon enough...Chapter 8
Stack and roof collapse!
I finally got my work around the house caught up, and started back on the mack..
I had a heat shield with round holes to put on the stack. I also bought a flapper for the stack (to drive people crazy..lol). I had to trim my stack mount a little to get the shield to fit right..
Then I got up on the tool box to trim the stack and put the flapper on... There is big cracks in the center of the roof!!!!! A big piece of paint and bondo pulls right up!!!! About 12" round..
When they painted the roof, they had bondo.. going from thin to 1/4 or 3/8 thick..
I pry up all the loose pieces with a screwdriver.. end up with a hole in the paint 12" x 18"..
As best as I can figure.. the roof has no support, just a one piece stamping, no ribs.. with the heavy snow and ice we had last winter it must have bowed down (oil canned) and cracked the paint . That let the water seep in and the freeze pooped the bondo off the roof...bondo was too thick also..
nothing I can do but fix it..
I got out the grinder and ground back to where the bondo was thin and still adhearing well...
started over keeping it thin..
trying to find 2 days without rain is the hard part..
finally got the color on yesterday, and 2 coats of clear today.. i'll look in the morning and see if i need more..
i'll have to put some support between the headliner supports and the roof so it doesn't happen again. I'll remember to clear the roof and not let the snow and ice build up..
thats all for now...
While working on the gen, I thought I could use a little shade. I welded up some C clamps and a piece of pipe, and made a base for an umbrella. It clamps on and you can move it so the shade falls on you.
This thread is getting long, so I will continue in
Red Dog II, a Mack H67..
This will make easyer to keep up, without down loading the whole thing , every time...